Beyond the vines in Western Australia's Margaret River
Margaret River and wine go hand in hand but the region has plenty more to offer.
Margaret River is a brand recognised all over, like Noosa or the Great Ocean Road. Say “Margaret River” to a Westie though, or more recognisably “Margs”, and it means a particular town and, possibly, the surfing beaches at the mouth of the river, at Prevelly.
What the rest of the country thinks of as “Margaret River” is really “Down South” to locals: the 100km stretch between Dunsborough in the north and Augusta in the south; between the capes, Naturaliste and Leeuwin. Between these two handy geographical, and literal, beacons lies an impressive diversity of natural beauty and man-made attractions you’d be a fool to miss.
The drive itself is one of the world’s most monotonous, with speed limits that change constantly, but be under no illusion: a car is essential for any trip to the region.
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SAND AND SURF
If it’s beaches you’re after, and WA’s white sand beaches are probably the best in the country, the north end of the cape region is where it’s at. On Geographe Bay lies a series of stunning, sheltered family bays and beaches. Bunker Bay and Eagle Bay are the picks for independents, but Castle Rock and Meelup, with toilet facilities and parking, will suit families with younger kids. This is where you’ll find the second homes of Perth’s ridiculously well-to-do. On the Indian Ocean side, Yallingup is the busiest surf beach, for good reason. Like River Mouth, Smiths and most of the major beaches, it’s patrolled in summer. For a bit of solitude, try Indjidup and hike in to the so-called natural spa, or seek out the hidden “aquarium” at Smiths. With a 4WD and an alert ear for local knowledge, the keen surfer will find a host of little-known breaks such as Bears, Gallows and Honeycombs to tap into. Further south, hardcore surfers will love the home of the Margaret River Pro, the Main Break off Prevelly, as well as Redgate and Gnarabup. Hamelin Bay’s almost-tame stingrays virtually have an Instagram page of their own. Wherever you go, the water is superb but only a fool would swim without considering the possibility of sharks; margaretriver.com.
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TAKE THE TOWN
The town of Margaret River is a bustling mix of pubs, restaurants, cafes, boutiques, galleries and surf shops. Once the province of backpackers and surfers, these days it’s a thriving centre and home to artists, winemakers, craft distillers and a flourishing mountain bike scene. Many visitors base themselves here to experience the forests, bushwalking and caves. The Cape to Cape walking track offers incredible views of the spectacular Indian Ocean coastline linking both ends of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Four dramatic limestone caves open to the public take you deep into the area’s prehistoric past through fossils and crystal formations. Walk Into Luxury offers multi-day explorations of the Cape to Cape and Bibbulmun tracks, staying in boutique properties along the way. A trip to the 80m-tall karri trees of Boranup Forest, a biodiversity hotspot, is a must. capetocapetrack.com.au
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LOCAL HEROES
Margaret River’s farmers market, held every Saturday, showcases high quality wares from the district’s food producers, such as Margaret River Venison, Gabriel Chocolate, Olio Bello (excellent oil) and Giniversity. If you thought the wine scene was competitive, try the many coffee vendors. In Margaret River I recommend Sidekick Cafe; in Dunsborough, head for Merchant and Maker;
margaretriverfarmersmarket.com.au
distillery.com.au/margaret-river;
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SIP TIPS
Midway down Caves Road, home to some of Australia’s best-known wine producers, you’ll find Gracetown, the perfect base for exploring the great vineyards of the region. Strike out from this hamlet of contrasting fibro surf shacks and mansions to hit icons such as Vasse Felix, Pierro and Howard Park. Margaret River has some of the country’s most sophisticated cellar doors but there are also hidden gems to be found in tin sheds off the back roads. Of the 175 wineries in the appellation, plenty are delivering exceptional examples of the classics but there is a lot of interesting low-intervention and biodynamic winemaking taking place. Newer, smaller wine producers such as Woodlands, Deep Woods or Victory Point offer a simple, rustic opportunity to sample special wines and meet the people behind the bottles. We like the earthy informality (not to mention the plonk) at Wilyabrup’s Cullen. One thing is for sure: you will never drink wines such as the famed Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay or the Cullen Diana Madeline (cabernet merlot) at better restaurant prices than in their own dining rooms. Taste, eat, buy.
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CULTURE AND COUNTRY
Margaret River Discovery Co takes guests on a canoe trip before heading to a waterhole to spot marron and learn about indigenous culture. There’s lunch at Fraser Gallop Estate followed by a walk along the Wilyabrup Cliffs. Guests of Bushtucker Tours also explore the river before enjoying a lunch of wild foods such as emu, kangaroo and crocodile. Wadandi man Josh Whiteland offers cultural activities through his Koomal Dreaming Cultural Experiences, including visits to Ngilgi Cave near Yallingup to hear Dreaming stories, didgeridoo performances, fire-making and an introduction to bush medicine.
margaret-riverdiscovery.com.au
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EATING OUT
There’s no shortage of dining options in Margaret River. Eagle Bay’s eponymous brewery is an easy choice for families, serving up share plates and pizza. Wills Domain, Amelia Park, Vasse Felix, Cullen and Leeuwin Estate are all quality wine producers that make a big effort for diners. In Dunsborough, Yarri Restaurant+Bar and Blue Manna Bistro are the best choices; at Yallingup the quirky Barnyard 1978 (days only) is consistently good and at Wilyabrup, Chow’s Table, next to House of Cards Wine, offers one of the region’s few Asian choices. Margaret River’s Pizzica and Settlers Tavern — the latter a rollicking pub with a nationally renowned wine list — are proven commodities. Sadly, getting food and wine near the water in WA is difficult. Bunkers Beach House, at Bunker Bay, a lovely, long beach with a surf swell at one end, is the perfect location; bunkersbeachhouse.com.au.
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GET A TICKET
Foodies flock to the region for Gourmet Escape, which has now also embraced Perth and the Swan Valley. It’s a bit of an ego-fest for visiting chefs but it takes place in some beautiful locations, with a festival village at Leeuwin Estate. The Margaret River Pro (April-May) and Iron Man WA (December) attract legions of local and international athletes. The Leeuwin Estate Concert is taking a break this year and will return in 2021; past performers have included Carole King, Tom Jones, Sting and Paul Kelly.
gourmetescape.com.au
worldsurfleague.com
leeuwinestate.com.au
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STAYING IN
For a seaside villa-style hotel your one choice is The Pullman at Bunker Bay. Seaside apartment style is at Smiths Beach Resort or try the villa-style developments on Geographe Bay. For a country estate vibe, Cape Lodge is the cream; spa-cations are at Bodhi J at Injidup Spa. Exclusive Escapes and Private Properties dominate the holiday rental market.