Best restaurants on Ibiza
Behind the holiday hotspot’s reputation as a wild party island lies a sophisticated dining scene, pretty villages and beachside indulgences.
Behind the holiday hotspot’s reputation as a wild party island lies a sophisticated dining scene, pretty villages and beachside indolence.
1 A different class
The compact Spanish island of Ibiza is known for its party scene, but it has a sophisticated side where exceptional dining meets the Mediterranean Sea and chilled-out vibes. Drink rosado and enjoy a long lunch at one of the best new feet-in-the-sand restaurants in the Mediterranean, Casa Jondal in Cala Jondal, on the island’s southwest. The food, setting and service are superb. Chef Rafa Zafra (El Bulli and Estimar Barcelona and Madrid) draws heavily on the ocean for dishes that include oysters (herb oil, finger lime, grapefruit), red prawn carpaccio and langoustines (garlic, fried eggs, capsicum and fries) while sourcing the best local lamb, chicken and beef. Also try El Silencio at Cala Moli, a French-run beach bar with a menu from three Michelin-star chef Mauro Colagreco of award-winning Mirazur (World’s Best Restaurant 2019) on the French Riviera.
2 Evening stars
Take an early-evening stroll around Ibiza Town’s quayside and find a rooftop bar for a cocktail or browse the shops. Cobbled streets lead to the fortified citadel of Dalt Vila, which has a 13th-century cathedral and a castle affording panoramic views across land and sea to the little island of Formentera. After sunset, find a spot for dinner such as Casa Maca, above the town, or the multi-level Sa Punta, which is five minutes away and has views across the Talamanca resort area.
3 Over the sea
Charter a boat and skipper to explore Formentera, a 30 to 50-minute jaunt south. Otherwise, take the public ferry (Trasmapi or Mediterranea) from Ibiza Port, which is quicker, cheaper and a lot smoother sailing than a small vessel. Formentera is less developed and more bohemian than its sister island, which is part of its appeal. Walk along the shore or rent a bicycle to explore the peninsula, beaches and restaurants of Ses Illetes. You’ll find posh yachties at Juan y Andrea for high-priced dining and in-the-know locals at Es Moli de Sal for its friendly welcome. Venture further by renting a scooter and cruising down to Platja de Migjorn and the clear seas of the south coast. Es Codol Foradat serves lobster frit with sobrasada, a Balearic sausage, and you can sneak in a skinny-dip afterwards, if desired.
4 Get some wheels
Rent a car. Ibiza is only 45km long and 25km wide but taxis are notoriously unreliable. Without wheels you’ll see only 10 per cent of what the island has to offer. The major players – Europcar, Avis, Sixt and Hertz – and plenty of other operators have branches in Ibiza Town. The rewards of motoring freedom are many – secluded coves, rustic villages, quaint churches, empty beaches, traditional cafes and those serendipitous discoveries made when you stop and wander.
5 Dine like a local
Another day, another long lunch. For authenticity, try one of the less acclaimed but locally adored seaside restaurants. Order jamon iberico, boquerones (marinated anchovies), tomato salad, cigales (like miniature lobster) and, above all, lubina al horno (oven-baked sea bass), which is a must-try dish served at almost every restaurant. A favourite eatery is Es Xarcu but also consider Ses Boques, Es Torrent or Sa Caleta, all on the south coast.
6 Flop and drop
Fabulous beaches abound, so make the most of them by renting a day bed for two. The lovely Atzaro Beach Club is on the island’s east and no more than 10m from the water. During my visit, most guests are Spanish with a smattering of Italians. All are lazing on large sun beds, enjoying a glass of rose or champagne before wandering those few steps across the sand of Cala Nova to the clear sea. The food on offer is simple but decent; think fresh fish or linguine with clams. The stunning setting takes a starring role here; the food and friendly service are a gentle backdrop to beachside indolence.
7 Rocky roads
The challenging hike down to “Atlantis” is not suitable for young children or old knees but it’s worth the effort. The historic quarry at Cala D’Hort on the west coast was the source of the stone used to build the walls of Dalt Vila. Exertions are rewarded with incredible rock formations, views of the rugged island of Es Vedra and refreshing swims in ocean pools. Depart early for this outing as the rocks get very hot. The trek down takes about 40 minutes and the return will feel much steeper and longer than expected.
8 Heart and soul
Located in the heart of Ibiza, Santa Gertrudis is arguably the prettiest town on the island. At its heart is a neat whitewashed church and town square, from which a host of cool bars and boutiques fan out. It has a high proportion of permanent residents, and its real estate is snapped up by those who fall in love with the bohemian atmosphere and homely feel. Take in some light shopping and then refuel at fantastic Italian restaurant Bottega il Buco, run by New York’s Donna Lennard in combination with Umbrian chef Alberto Avalle. The squid-ink pasta with tuna is as good as you will find anywhere and the service is flawless.
9 When the sun goes down
Cafe Mambo and Cafe del Mar are the two most popular sunset spots where crowds gather to face the end of day and, for some, the start of a night of clubbing. Dusk is almost always accompanied by DJs playing a chill-out soundtrack. Alternatively, Cala Conta’s Sunset Ashram, with its booming sound system, has a much livelier beach vibe and serves a mean chicken curry. Get there early for a swim and a quick strawberry mojito from the semi-secret chiringuito (a small bar) next door at Cala Escondida. For a quieter time, soak up the views at the striking outcrop of Hostal la Torre. After dark, it’s time to hit the dance floor at one of Ibiza’s many nightclubs. Every visitor should do it once, and people of all ages from 18 to 80 can be seen strutting their stuff. Glitterbox at HI on Sunday and Circo Loco at DC10 on Monday are two popular nights. For a full-on euphoric Ibiza club experience, pick a night at Amnesia, ideally when Sasha is playing.
10 Best beds
Ibiza has an enormous range of accommodation options. For groups staying at least a week, renting a villa is ideal. Dynamic Lives has a large portfolios of properties on the island (and on Majorca and Mykonos), from rural fincas to sprawling beachfront estates with vast swimming pools. A concierge service helps to ensure guests make the most of their holiday. Another option is the perfectly pretty Atzaro Agroturismo Hotel . Nestled among an extensive orange orchard, this 13ha retreat is a place of cool breezes, secluded daybeds, yoga classes, massages and a supply of rosata delivered by quietly attentive staff. The accommodation is discrete and organic, with some sections of the resort hidden away with private plunge pools and favoured by the likes of pop stars Shakira and Rihanna.
Tansy Harcourt was a guest of Atzaro and Bottega il Buco.
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