Best hotels in Finland
This boutique property is ideal for travellers who want to experience the Arctic wilderness without skimping on comfort and good food.
To see how huge the wilderness is, you really need to see it from the air,” says my host, Margit Eskonen, who along with her husband Ville co-founded Hotel Cahkal in the village of Kilpisjarvi. Located 400km above the Arctic Circle, this remote settlement lies at the northwest point of Finland, close to the Arctic Ocean. As we talk, we’re circling high above the dramatic landscape on a helicopter that took off from Lake Kilpisjarvi’s shore.
“Now we’re in Finland, now we’re in Sweden and now we’re in Norway,” Margit says as we fly in a tight circle above where the three countries meet. This aerial sightseeing tour is typical of the experience Ville and Margit provide guests staying at the hotel they conceived, oversaw the building of, and opened in June last year. “The sauna is waiting for you,” she says later, as we make our way back to the boutique retreat.
And so it is. This peaceful pavilion, which features a fireplace, lounge and terrace, is the place to warm cold bones and soothe tired muscles, afflictions that must be commonly but pleasantly acquired in this neck of the woods. Facing the lake and backed by a vast wilderness of forest and mountains, Hotel Cahkal is in an area that once attracted reindeer herders. These days it’s a base for active travellers looking to hike and bike, fly-fish and ski.
Having spent several years working in hospitality and offering adventure tours here, the Eskonens decided to fill a gap in the tourism market by opening the region’s first upscale hotel. Their passion for exploring the Arctic wilderness sits harmoniously alongside the property’s Scandi-style decor, adherence to Finnish wellness principles and use of seasonal local ingredients in the restaurant.
The 23-guestroom hotel, which is geared to run on solar and geothermal energy, connects guests with the outdoors via broad picture windows looking out over mountains and woodlands where reindeer can be spotted wandering through the trees. The smart modern guestrooms are decorated in blond wood and white, and have handy amenities for outdoor types such as dryers for clothing and boots. Design details highlight the colours of the landscape while paintings depict the neighbouring Saana Mountain. Books throughout provide insights into the area. While most accommodation is in the main building, guests seeking more privacy or travelling in a group of six can book nearby Cahkal Studio and the two-bedroom Cahkal Suite. Each has a terrace and the latter has a sauna.
The light-filled Aika restaurant pairs a contemporary aesthetic with natural materials, and features a cocktail bar, fireside lounge and terrace. For Ville and Margit, food is a central part of the Cahkal experience, and the menu has a strong focus on seasonal and local. A starter of pike ceviche with baby potatoes, apple and fish roe or beetroot soup with juniper oil could be followed by a reindeer fillet with roots and juniper berry sauce, roasted white fish with celery, fennel and smoked butter, or a chanterelle risotto. Each dish is thoughtfully presented and offered with wine pairings from a largely European list. The desserts, as well as classic and signature cocktails, highlight regional ingredients such as lingonberries and cloudberries (guests are welcome to join Margit on foraging excursions). Breakfast is a generous spread of cold buffet items, with hot dishes made on request in the open kitchen and coffee from Helsinki ROST & Co.
During my stay we cross into Norway to hike up forested slopes overlooking the Arctic Ocean, and speed up and down the rocky slopes of Korkea-Jehkas mountain on e-bikes. We explore trails leading out of Kilpisjarvi, and Margit takes me to meet a reindeer farmer who offers fascinating insights into Sami culture and caring for his herd.
The experience at Hotel Cahkal is largely defined by the seasons. In the northern summer this verdant landscape is a playground for fly-fishing, hiking and biking. Autumn brings golden foliage and darker nights and the first sight of the northern lights. From November to May, deep snow covers the ground and the sun doesn’t rise until January. Days are spent ice-fishing, taking snowmobile and sleigh rides, and snow touring among some of the highest peaks and longest runs in Finland. “In winter, the wilderness is like a white Sahara – you can see for kilometre and kilometre,” Margit tells me. It sounds magical – a reason to return.
IN THE KNOW
Hotel Cahkal is at Revontulentie 4 in Kilpisjarvi, Finland. The hotel is accessed by flying into Tromso in Norway, which is 2½ hours by car. Alternatively, airports in Kittila in Finland and Kiruna in Sweden are both 3½ hours from the property. The hotel offers airport pick-up. Rooms from €220 ($360) a night with breakfast.
Lauren Hill was a guest of Visit Finland.
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