Berrima Vault House: a club with heritage values
A new venue in NSW’s Southern Highlands has old bones and an ethos that has been reimagined in light of Covid.
Groucho Marx was adamant: “I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member.” For the rest of us, however, times have changed; why, there are even some establishments that admit women as members. And in the NSW Southern Highlands, there is a new club with old bones that has reimagined its offerings in light of Covid.
Berrima Vault House is the invitingly stylish makeover of heritage-listed Taylor’s Crown Inn, built by convicts in 1844. Founder and chief executive Si Philby says the club offers members a place to socialise, dine, stay and work. Covid has changed how and where we earn our keep, with many people discovering working from home could well mean a shift to the regions. But WFH has its limitations and this is where Philby sees Vault House fitting in as a place to work in an informal setting with top-level, hi-tech speed and security, a comfortable 90-minute drive from Sydney and Canberra should the call come from head office.
The good news is that the Residence, which occupies the top floor of the old inn, is open to members and the general public, and I find myself as one of its first guests enjoying an exquisite freshness as I look across the Old Hume Highway to Berrima’s grand Regency-style sandstone courthouse and what prides itself as the mainland’s best-preserved Georgian village. There’s a strong English expat element in the Vault House team and Cotswolds comes up often as a point of reference.
I could get lost in my digs, which are all light and space, original floorboards and rugs, high ceilings (but be careful of low doorways) and windows all around revealing the village and its rustic surrounds. The Residence is a single letting and has two double bedrooms, one with dressing room and desk, a single bedroom, expansive living and dining area with setting for six and a giant arrangement of fresh flowers. These mirror the floral paintings that decorate the walls. Two deep sofas flank a fireplace and smart TV; a SONOS sound system carries music throughout the rooms.
There is an eclectic collection of books placed on a long sideboard and bedside tables. The kitchen is fully equipped and includes a coffee-making machine. As a quibble, the bathroom-laundry is small, but heritage considerations may have restricted a revamp. With a concierge on hand, access to all areas downstairs, breakfast awaiting in the morning and a come-hither drinks trolley, it’s tempting just to curl up and drift. Despite the open spaces, the heating system works a wonder in the face of a frosty onset. Think a cosy, convivial weekend with family or friends.
There’s much to discover on the property, which has a dining room and cafe open to the public. Down in the basement, I pass through a lounge with open fire in a sandstone hearth and head for the cellars-cum-cells. Overflow prisoners from the nearby jail would be held here pending appearance in court and these old spaces have been turned into bar and dining spaces with names such as King George’s Cell and Hank and Molly’s Bar. Molly, by the way, was a frequent guest of the old pub and now resident ghost.
Si’s wife’s Carlie is the imaginative force behind the decor and has been able to create theatrical flourishes with the simplest of touches. The walls host historic photos and a collection of contemporary art, including work by Indigenous creative, Christian Thompson. Outside, the Vinery and Rose Garden hold promise of sweet times on a sunny afternoon.
Tonight I’m back beside the fire where chef Tommy Prosser serves up a dinner typical of his cuisine – traditional English fare with a modern Aussie twist. Prosser has kitchen cred, having worked in Britain at the Roux brothers’ Waterside Inn and Gravetye Manor. On the menu, potted prawns with pickled fennel, apple and chervil salad, and sourdough beer crackling; and pan-roasted chicken with potato rosti, glazed carrot, broccoli, bread sauce and chicken jus. To top it off, sticky toffee pudding in butterscotch sauce, burnt butter and creme fraiche. Manon, my concierge, is amiable and informative; there’s little she doesn’t know about the wines she serves to partner the dishes, or Berrima’s delights.
Back upstairs, I select one of the quirky books, titled Money-Making Formulas: A Collection of Practical Formulas and Recipes for Use in Industry and the Home, edited by George George. This visit is going to be life-enhancing in more ways than one.
In the know
Rates at Berrima Vault House from $600 a night mid-week; $800 a night weekends, minimum two nights.
Graham Erbacher was a guest of Berrima Vault House.
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