Barcelona’s new Borneta hotel: A chic hideaway in buzzing El Born
Located in the coolest neighbourhood in the Spanish city, this hotel provides a calm and quiet space to retreat from the crowds.
In Barcelona, a city with no shortage of famous hotels, it takes a lot to turn tourist heads. But Borneta turns mine from the moment I spy its classical facade of arched porticos and then step inside to an enthusiastic welcome from two bright young staff at reception. Beside them, an attractive couple kiss passionately. Clearly they need a room but unfortunately theirs is not yet ready.
Borneta is not part of a global chain or – as yet – a luxury portfolio. It’s one of just two properties launched in 2024 by the Indian-owned Miiro group. Le Grand Hotel Cayre opened in Paris’s swank Saint-Germain-des-Pres in July, Borneta in August and, if all goes to plan, there’ll be new Miiro-owned addresses in Vienna and London this year.
Borneta’s location is superb. I have stayed across Barcelona – Eixample, Gracia, Poble Sec – but El Born is the coolest neighbourhood in arguably Spain’s coolest city. This buzzy barrio in the Ciutat Vella, or Old Town, was the medieval artisans’ quarter and creativity still courses through its labyrinth of laneways. Unfortunately so do many tourists. They swarm the Picasso Museum and the Catalan-Gothic basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, queue for nightly flamenco shows at the 17th century Dalmases Palace or a table at Born’s fashionable tapas bars and restaurants, and otherwise throng this medieval-meets-modern quarter.
Borneta manages to be both in the heart of the action but also stand apart. It backs onto the old market square, now dominated by the Maradona museum and the archaeological ruins inside the Born Cultural Centre. The tourist madness of Montcada Street is a few blocks behind. The 92-room hotel is part of a grand architectural ensemble fronting Passeig de Picasso, which, despite being minutes away from Franca railway station, a major hub for regional European trains, is quiet and relatively untrafficked. From the Juliet balcony of my fourth-floor room I can hear monk parakeets squawking in the leafy oasis of Ciutadella Park opposite, home to Barcelona Zoo, a heritage greenhouse, rowboats on the lake and the quixotic Castle of the Three Dragons.
Rooms range from 17sqm to 47sqm; my 22sqm superior room feels custom-made with its exposed timber floors, textured fabrics and earthy tones. In-room tablets give guests the rundown on what’s worth seeing, visiting, eating and drinking in the Catalan capital.
The floor above me consists of suites with private terraces and a bijou rooftop space with pool – more of a water feature really – a trolley bar and wonderful views across the spires of Basilica de la Sagrada Familia and Barcelona Cathedral, and the calming green expanse of the parklands.
The architect of Borneta’s interiors is James Thurstan Waterworth, the former European design director of Soho House hotels, and there’s definitely some of that some Soho DNA here on Picasso Street. Ground-floor public areas – all rich in colour, materials and greenery – feel clubby and chic. The compact reception and lift lobby opens out to the glass-fronted facade of The Gallery lounge and library, and Volta restaurant and bar. The spaces share a binding aesthetic of eclectic carpets, lighting and seating – sofas, armchairs, ottomans in tactile materials – and a curated selection of classic and modern artworks by Catalan artists.
There is timber and marble, alabaster and rattan, and a small jungle of potted plants thriving in the sunlight of the glass-roofed atrium bar. The music selection captures the energy of the city (the hotel has its own playlists for guests to download) and shelves are stocked with interesting reads, from Italo Calvino to Real Madrid.
The flames of a (faux) fire add to the homely atmosphere during a wet weekend stay but it’s the staff who bring the warmth. They are genuinely friendly and helpful and a godsend when my forgetful friend leaves his iPhone in a cab. We manage to get it back, miraculously. My favourite staffer is bartender Elena, who insists on repouring my beer after I pop into the bathroom because “Now it’s not fresh!”.
Volta Restaurant, named for the arches of the Porxos de Fontsere, the 19th century porticos lining the street, appears to be an instant sensation. On a Sunday night the open kitchen is humming as it dishes up plates of stuffed Sicilian pasta, Girona beef and prized Palamós seafood. For me the highlights of head chef Andrea de Benedictis’s menu are a mizuna salad of roast Black Angus beef with Comte and gribiche sauce, and a vitello tonnato with bone marrow, capers and puffs of polenta. The bar here pours an excellent negroni Mediterraneo, fragrant with rosemary and gin infused with olive oil and lemon thyme.
Come mornings, the bar counters are laden with help-yourself breakfast provisions from pastries and bocadillo sandwiches to fruits and cereals, and an array of cakes that test the willpower. The kitchen cooks eggs to order.
While handy to the distractions of El Born, from Borneta’s doorstep you can also walk easily to the Gothic quarter, Barceloneta, the Rambla and more.
Borneta is officially a four-star hotel – presumably because there is no 24-hour room service or proper pool – but there are five-star trappings to the service, the design and the full-sized pump-pack toiletries by cult NYC perfumer Le Labo in every bathroom (this, surely, is a mark of true luxury). As well, if staff can’t arrange a late checkout, there are basement “refresh rooms” where guests can shower, change and charge devices before leaving for onward travels, smelling amazing.
In the know
Borneta hotel is at 26 Passeig de Picasso, Barcelona. From €216 ($383) a night, twin-share.
Kendall Hill was a guest of Miiro Hotels.
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