Canada’s Banff National Park has snow business aplenty
It may be the overlooked “little brother” of Banff’s trio of ski fields but it is about to get a serious facelift.
It’s been a decade since I’ve stood at the top of Cascade Quad, the main chairlift at Mount Norquay. From here, I have views of a forested mountain, at the base of which are a smattering of old buildings; one is a lodge, another a ski school and another a ticket office. It’s the polar opposite of what you’ll see standing on the slopes of Whistler Blackcomb, a 10-hour drive west in British Columbia.
And that’s exactly why I love it. Norquay (pronounced nor-kway) is endearing. It’s the way ski resorts perhaps should be — more about the snow and less about the glam. Inside Cascade Lodge is all a skier needs; there’s a bistro downstairs, a pub upstairs, and a huge verandah for sunny spring beers. Inside, it’s warm and inviting, with 1980s ski art on the toilet doors. This is my kind of “hill”.
Although the first ski runs were cut here in 1926, Mount Norquay is the little brother in Banff’s trio of ski resorts, often overlooked but protected and cherished nonetheless. It’s the locals’ mountain, with school kids learning to ski here and returning decades later to teach their own children. Visitors to Banff National Park likely have the bigger Lake Louise and Banff Sunshine Village resorts at the top of their itineraries. Yet, Norquay is always worth at least a day or two.
Not only is it a hassle-free resort, only 6km from Banff, it’s family friendly, with front-facing trails leading back to the base lodge. It has 60 runs, a smidge more than Thredbo, and just as many advanced trails as there are beginner ones.
There are, however, a few changes in the works ahead of the resort’s 100th anniversary in 2026. An ageing chairlift will be replaced with a two-station gondola, buildings will be removed or renovated, and public transport will be improved. I have no doubt, though, there will still be plenty of charm as the resort moves into its next era.
Changes are also bound for Banff Sunshine Village. Management recently decommissioned the iconic Angel Express, which in 1988 was the first high-speed quad in the Canadian Rockies. In time for this season, it’s been replaced with a six-passenger bubble lift with heated bucket seats and footrests .
But like Norquay, there is still plenty of character at Sunshine, especially if you pull up a stool at Mad Trappers, a 1920s log cabin that was once a base for mountaineers and now warms the toes of skiers and boarders as they enjoy smoked meat poutine and plates of chicken wings.
If you’re after a lunch spot with a touch more sophistication, you’ll want to dine at Eagles Nest, in a high-ceilinged lodge on the snow. Dine on bison and salmon after tackling some of Sunshine’s best black-diamond off-piste terrain on Goat’s Eye Mountain. If lunch slows you down, swap the black runs for the sweeping views from The Great Divide Express, which whisks you to the British Columbia-Alberta border.
With all this talk of views, it would be remiss not to recommend soaking in some of the very best from Banff’s biggest ski resort, Lake Louise. With four mountain faces and 164 runs, the longest of which is 8km, “The Lake” is a juggernaut. You’ll find powder bowls, steep glades, wide groomers, and everything in between. No matter how windy or cold it may be, pause when you get off Top of the World chairlift, where the horizon is filled with a never-ending parade of white slopes and peaks.
A short slide from this spot will be the top station of the new heated Upper Juniper Chairlift, set to open for the 24/25 season and improve access to tree skiing. Whether you’re riding this lift, or two other new ones planned for the following winter, you’ll want to lunch at Kuma Yama, a sophisticated Japanese restaurant that’s a refreshing addition to resort dining.
After all this skiing, you’re going to need somewhere special to unwind and one of Banff’s premier stays is The Rimrock Resort Hotel. Located a few minutes’ drive out of town, The Rimrock will impress. Rooms are spacious and it’s hard to drag yourself away from picture windows showcasing Banff National Park. Slow down and appreciate the outlook while eating local handmade Le Chocolatier treats and enjoying a cuppa.
When it comes time to leave your perch, you’ll want to have a reservation in the exclusive Eden dining room, where the impeccable service and dishes are matched by yet another stunning vista of the forest. Here, there are three degustation menus paired with wine from a cellar of more than 17,000 bottles. If, like me, you’d prefer to opt out of alcohol, the sommelier is quick to adjust his offerings to delicate mocktails. If wine, or any other tipple tickles your fancy, however, you can continue imbibing in the main lobby lounge. Just remember you’re skiing in the morning.
The Rimrock, built into the side of Sulphur Mountain, is a grand dame replete with not only restaurants, bars and cafes, but a heated pool big enough for post-ski laps, a large spa, his and her saunas, a gym, and beauty salon (a comprehensive renovation is on the cards but details are yet to be revealed). There are also friendly and efficient concierges who will happily craft an itinerary for you, if you’ve put it in the “will figure it out later” basket.
But really, between enjoying everything on offer at The Rimrock and zipping around the extensive terrain at Banff’s ski resorts, you won’t want for anything else.
In the know
The Rimrock is a five-minute drive from Banff’s town centre, 20 minutes from Mount Norquay, 25 minutes from Banff Sunshine Village, and 45 minutes from Lake Louise. There are more than 300 guestrooms and suites; winter rates start at approximately C$400 a night.
Jennifer Ennion was a guest of Banff-Lake Louise Tourism.
