Back to the future in blue heaven
In an era of big hotels with vast lobbies, there’s something joyously simple about parking right outside your quarters at a revamped motel.
In an era of big hotels, with lobbies that seem to cover half a hectare and lifts that propel you into the heavens in search of your room, there’s something joyously simple about parking right outside my quarters at the Hillcrest Merimbula motel. Just 10 steps from the car and I’m at my door. But while I’m wooed by the ease of arrival, it’s the accommodation that wins me over at this 1970s retro gem.
True to its name, the Hillcrest sits high above Merimbula on NSW’s far south coast, a region described as the Sapphire Coast. On a sunny day, that’s also an accurate moniker. As soon as I open the door I’m met by a view of the sparkling azure waters of the Pacific Ocean merging into vivid blue skies that stretch across the town. The interior decor is just as easy on the eye. One of six Hillcrest guestrooms that have been fully renovated, my Exhale Deluxe Room features a soothing palette of white and stone. The bed is dressed in soft chic linens, a sisal mat lies on the white concrete floor and the bedside bench is home to an artistic arrangement of vases and woven baskets. A tall ceramic urn sits next to the original wood-framed glass wall and door that opens to a small private balcony.
Add in the easterly ocean view and the result is an extremely restful retreat. While neither the bedroom nor bathroom are large, it’s a stylish, comfortable space for two, filled with considered touches that include a smart TV, microwave, Nespresso machine, organic Mayde teas and tasteful tableware, as well as fragrant Kevin Murphy toiletries.
Owner Caspar Tresidder says that while Merimbula is home to a multitude of motels, many built in the ’60s to accommodate Victorian holidaymakers crossing the border to beat their state’s then ban on poker machine gambling, Hillcrest has always been a standout. Excited by the chance to revive a local icon, Tresidder bought the 1969-built property last year, beginning a transformation process that’s blending the best of the establishment’s vintage flair with a contemporary coastal feel.
All the motel’s 30 guestrooms, including a freshly created one-bedroom flat, offer new king-size beds and crisp linens along with seaside views, and about two-thirds now have renovated bathrooms. Tiered wooden decking has been added beside the motel’s swimming pool, set in lush gardens that also feature a reclaimed tennis court, on-trend fire pit and play equipment for younger guests.
While it’s tempting to linger in Hillcrest’s grounds channeling a Slim Aarons’ vibe, there’s a bigger playground to be enjoyed in Merimbula and its surrounds, where a host of fresh offerings are creating more reasons to holiday here. With its lakes, lagoons and estuaries, golden sand beaches and national park bushland, the meandering coastline provides the setting for some inspiring rambles, including the Sapphire Coast Guiding Co’s new Wharf to Wharf walk. Traversing the land of the Yuin people, the catered excursion spans 27km of coast from Merimbula Wharf north to Tathra Wharf. As he leads us through a dense copse of twisted melaleuca trunks in Bournda National Park, the guiding company’s affable owner, Cam Read, explains how the path served as the overland track to move goods such as maize to steamers at Tathra in the 19th century, before Merimbula’s wharf was built in 1901.
These days the trail is home to hikers and some wonderful wildlife, include a spritely goanna that stares suspiciously as we approach from the edge of Tura Beach. Within minutes of reading a sign warning us to keep an eye out for the endangered pied oystercatchers that nest along the coast over the warmer months, one of the birds saunters past across the sand dunes, while a hooded plover and her baby dance by.
On a warm spring day, Merimbula’s waterfront proves irresistible so we return to town for lunch at the popular Bar Beach Kiosk. Positioned above crystal-clear waters, the small cafe appears to be an inclusion on every local’s must-do list, along with Toast Cafe and Wild Rye’s Bakery in neighbouring Pambula.
When we tell people we’re heading to Valentina for dinner, we get nods of approval. It’s Merimbula’s newest restaurant and run by the team behind the nearby Dulcie’s Cottage, revered for its cocktails and burgers. Set on the first floor of a waterfront row of shops, there’s a Mediterranean tone to Valentina’s soft luxe decor of olive-toned banquettes lined with linen cushions, timber floors and cream walls with arched alcoves.
Just as delicious as the design is the menu, which includes whipped cod roe, Balmain bug rolls and marinated bluefin tuna. In a region known for its plump molluscs, it’s perhaps a given that oysters will feature on local menus and here they’re served with a ginger and lime mignonette. What’s more surprising is that they’re also in the gin at the North of Eden distillery, a 20-minute drive from Merimbula. Master distiller Gavin Hughes and partner Karen Touchie are creating four delicious gins including a new Oyster Shell Gin, a smooth and creamy concoction which uses shells from Merimbula’s Broadwater Oysters in its botanicals.
The boutique distillery offers gin-making classes along with tastings and cocktails served up at an intimate cellar door that has the feel of a speakeasy bar. Guests can also bring a picnic to enjoy in the distillery’s pretty garden area, taking in idyllic views over a verdant valley and Mumbulla Mountain. It might be north of the town of Eden, and indeed Merimbula, but it’s another heavenly offering for visitors to this blessed region.
In the know
Merimbula is about six hours’ drive from Sydney or Melbourne and three hours from Canberra. Hillcrest Merimbula rates start at $269 a night for a renovated Exhale Deluxe Room.
Sapphire Coast Guiding Co offers a range of guided and self-guided walks.
Valentina is open for dinner Thursday to Sunday and lunch Saturday and Sunday.
North of Eden’s cellar door (tastings and bottle sales) opens 1pm-6pm on weekends; scheduled hours may change so check in advance.
Libby Moffet was a guest of Sapphire Coast Destination Marketing.
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