Anantara Palazzo Naiadi, Rome
The perfect symbiosis of modern luxury and the character of its history dating back to the 16th century, this Italian hotel is the epitome of luxury.
The monumental double-winged building that houses Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome has been a work in progress for centuries but since my stay earlier this year, the hotel has been undergoing its own renaissance. Now there are new facilities to drool over but there was a lot to be agog about in the first place. In fact, the term “rendered speechless” comes to mind when I first sight this late 19th-century neoclassical wonder on Piazza della Repubblica. It’s not just the looming scale, the majestic portico, the symmetry of the colonnades and the imposing sense of grandeur that overwhelms, but its peerless location on the great circular sweep of a storied piazza.
“Over there, signora,” points out my taxi driver, ever so casually, “pay attention to the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and Martyrs.” Once he’s sure he has my full attention, he casually drops another snippet of information. “It was built in the 16th century from an original design by Michelangelo.” I see his eyes in the rear-view mirror checking my reaction. I think he’s convinced I’m swooning. Later that day, my Roman friend Nico delivers a couple of contemporary bombshells. Scenes from the House of Gucci movie were (reputedly) filmed at the hotel, although no one can tell me exactly where. What’s certain is that actor James Gandolfini had a heart attack here, in the then Hotel Boscolo, in 2013. What, Tony Soprano? He passed away shortly thereafter in a Rome hospital. Stories, and maybe myths, have always been part of the fabric of the Italian capital’s cherished landmarks.
This former Boscolo Hotels, and then Marriott, property, was rebranded in 2018 after joining the Dedica Anthology group. Asia-based Anantara took over in 2021. Its ongoing refurbishment has included a full wellness spa, with an upgraded rooftop restaurant and pool slated to follow in the northern spring. It’s a big project to haul such a monumental pile into the 21st century, but the work in progress during my stay heralded empathetic improvements designed to enhance, rather than replace, heritage features.
It can’t be easy for Anantara to refurbish such sprawling spaces but to be preserved, without question, are the “secrets of Palazzo Naiadi”, including the remaining 16th-century timbers of the granary on the fourth floor in the Clementine wing built by Pope Clement X1. Grain was stored here, safe and dry, for the Vatican. In the basement are the extraordinary foundations of the Diocletian thermal baths (from AD298). The palace was built over these original thermal springs and now glass panels reveal sections of the excavated remains, including a pool, mosaics and an octagonal fountain. Such history all seems so casual, so expected, so very Italian. “How is Emperor Diocletian regarded in terms of history?” I ask Nico. “As a reformer … and better than our politicians today,” he replies.
Fresh off the blocks in the new design reveal is the little (“gourmet”) Tazio Restaurant on the ground floor, which was dark-panelled and almost secretive. Now it’s brighter and more open but has retained its theme of “la dolce vita” with black-and-white photography by Tazio Secchiaroli (the original “paparazzo”) as a recurring motif. Off the double-storey lobby, the new breakfast room, La Fontana, has all the on-trend 21st-century design touches, beautiful lighting and views towards the piazza. Already revealed during my stay was Champagnerie, an art deco bar and diner that looks a little bit NYC, and hits all the right notes with music, cocktails, checkerboard tiled floor and shiny red fittings.
The 238 guestrooms, including duplexes with mezzanine sleeping areas, and spacious suites, are deeply comfortable and elegantly furnished; grey and white Travertine bathrooms are literally awash with lemony Acqua di Parma amenities. I draw back the voluminous curtains of my chamber at the lazy holiday hour of 8.30am and look straight across to the namesake Naiadi fountain and a postcard panorama come to life with a swirl of rush-hour traffic that resembles a racetrack. Speed limits? “As you wish. Always just a suggestion in Rome,” as Nico would say.
Susan Kurosawa was a guest of Leading Hotels of the World.
In the know
Leading Hotels of the World has regular flexible offers at Palazzo Naiadi (and other properties) such as stay for four nights and pay for three. Seasonal overnight rates from about $732 twin-share, weeknights. Exclusively Italy can organise transfers, train tickets and independent touring and travel arrangements in Rome and beyond. The recently launched seasonal Qantas thrice-weekly Boeing 787 Dreamliner direct service between Perth and Rome, with interstate connections, resumes in June next year.