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An insider’s guide to Rome

Hotelier Mirko Cattini reveals where to get the crispiest pizza, best gelato and the Italian capital’s version of croissants.

View of Colosseum in Rome and morning sun.
View of Colosseum in Rome and morning sun.

After 23 years working abroad, general manager Mirko Cattini returned to Italy in 2022 to take the reins at Rome’s storied Hotel Eden. He still recalls being surprised at the warm welcome he received from the city.

“There was a sense of gesture among the people that I had somewhat forgotten during my time away,” he says, “and a genuine cultural philosophy of the Italian way of life, which celebrates the joy and appreciation of simple pleasures.”

Cattini, who hails from Lake Como, arrived from sister hotel The Dorchester in London. Both properties belong to The Dorchester Collection portfolio, which includes Paris’s Plaza Athenee and Le Meurice and The Beverly Hills Hotel in Los Angeles.

Mirko Cattini, general manager of Hotel Eden in Rome.
Mirko Cattini, general manager of Hotel Eden in Rome.

The 98 rooms and suites of the Eden, which opened in 1889, occupy a prime corner site atop Pincian Hill (where Julius Caesar once had his villa) – handy to the Spanish Steps, swank shopping on Via Vittorio Veneto and the green oasis of the Borghese Gardens. The Pantheon and Trevi Fountain are a pleasant walk away.

Hotel interiors pay subtle but sophisticated homage to the Eternal City, from the lobby’s mosaicked marble floor (inspired by The Pantheon) and gold coffered ceilings (reminiscent of the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica), to the peacocks, ancient Roman symbols of immortality, stitched into bedheads.

The view from the rooftop of Hotel Eden.
The view from the rooftop of Hotel Eden.

Get your bearings on Eden’s rooftop, either at Michelin-starred La Terrazza or the more casual Il Giardino bar and restaurant – ideally from its terrace for wraparound views with the dome of St Peter’s basilica front and centre. The only major landmark you can’t see from up here, according to the waiters at Il Giardino, is the Colosseum, but they’ll happily stencil it on your coffee for some next-level latte art.

For fresh food, Cattini recommends heading to the market in Testaccio, a neighbourhood with a lengthy food history. It has a colourful selection of fruits and vegetables alongside food vendors and restaurants, so grab a slice of pizza from Casa Manco or a meatball sandwich from Mordi & Vai.

The stunning colours of the exterior of the hotel.
The stunning colours of the exterior of the hotel.

“Rome is a city like no other,” Cattini says. “Its history surrounds us and its vitality is unique. It is a cosmopolitan city with a modern flair. Certainly the most fascinating part of my job since my arrival has been to connect guests to the destination … (and) the Italian way of life.”

Must-see sights

If you come to visit Rome for the first time, I absolutely recommend the city landmarks: Colosseum, Vatican Museum and Trevi Fountain. But I suggest you discover a new and uncommon Rome through city districts such as Quartiere Coppede, and new points of view such as Borromini’s Galleria Prospettica in the Palazzo Spada and the perspective of St Peter’s Dome from Via Nicolo Piccolomini.

Lake Villa Borghese in the green and historic heart of Rome.
Lake Villa Borghese in the green and historic heart of Rome.

On the run

Rome offers lots of green spaces, a long path along the Tiber and stunning views from every angle. I usually run into the park of Villa Borghese, just behind Hotel Eden. I access the park at Porta Pinciana and start my daily run towards the Borghese Gallery and Museum – which I really suggest  visiting – and finish at Terrazza del Pincio (overlooking the historic centre).

'Romans like their pizza a little crispier.
'Romans like their pizza a little crispier.

Pizza time

Romans like their pizza a little crispier and the best place to try it is Emma, which uses a dough recipe by Pierluigi Roscioli made from top-quality flours. Make sure you look at their focaccia menu; I really like to order the focaccia with mortadella, a Roman classic.

Gelato at Fatamorgana in Rome.
Gelato at Fatamorgana in Rome.

Soft serve

If you want to feel like a local, head to Ciampini for its handmade ice cream and people-watching in Piazza di San Lorenzo. Many will say Otaleg is the best gelataria in Rome. Located in a tiny street by Piazza San Calisto in the lovely Trastevere neighbourhood, the team has won customers over with their pistachio gelato but if they have tiramisu in store, it’s definitely worth a try. At Fatamorgana, the founder Maria Agnese Spagnuolo experiments with unusual ingredients such as salted capers, hibiscus and chestnut honey.

Otaleg gelateria in Rome.
Otaleg gelateria in Rome.

Eat local

For a true taste of “cucina romana”, Da Enzo al 29 is the place; a family-run restaurant in the charming cobbled streets of Trastevere. It serves all the classics, such as carbonara and cacio e pepe, as well as specials made with quality local ingredients.

La Grande Bellezza cocktail at Hotel Eden in Rome.
La Grande Bellezza cocktail at Hotel Eden in Rome.

Each Sunday at Hotel Eden we pay homage to the country’s rich culinary traditions with La Domenica Italiana. Every month we shine the spotlight on a different region’s wines and dishes, finishing with a buffet of cakes and pastries to end a joyous Sunday meal.

Best drink with a view? ll Giardino Bar (on Hotel Eden’s roof terrace) is a lively yet relaxed living room in the heart of Rome, with stunning views of the city skyline and a cool international vibe. Our La Grande Bellezza cocktail is named after the famous Oscar-winning Italian film; its pink hues capture the warmth of a Roman sunset.

Maritozzo, the 'Roman croissant'.
Maritozzo, the 'Roman croissant'.

Sweet indulgence

Maritozzo is the “Roman croissant” filled with whipped cream. It is a feast for the senses and one of Rome’s most cherished pastries. Legend says that every first Friday of March, young suitors would gift the sweet pastry to their betrothed with a ring or gold trinket hidden inside. A testament to their love, the gesture ensured that they would become their “marito” (husband). In fact, maritozzo is an affectionate way of saying husband.

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Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/travel/an-insiders-guide-to-rome/news-story/0018a788280df190bacdd4e184445c1e