PNG landowners threaten ban on Australian tours over compliance rift

Australians may be barred on the 80th anniversary of the WWII campaign after local landowners blocked the track in a dispute with tour operators.

PNG locals block the Kokoda Trail near the village of Kovelo earlier this month. Picture: Kila Sibolo.

Thousands of Australians may be barred from making the popular pilgrimage along the historic Kokoda Trail on the 80th anniversary of the World War II campaign, after claims of exploitation and illegal practices by tour operators that have seen local landowners block the track.

The walking track in Papua New Guinea, which marks the site of one of Australia’s most significant military engagements, was blocked earlier this month when resource custodians protested against the tour companies.

The group formed a human blockade on April 16 near the village of Kovelo with a makeshift barrier fashioned from “sticks and coconut leaves” to take a stand against the widespread practice of Australian companies running tours without being certified as a foreign operator.

Landowners have also ­accused operators of dodging their tax responsibilities, failing to hire enough PNG guides and mistreating porters.

They blame the Kokoda Track Authority – which is funded by the Australian government’s Kokoda Initiative – for allowing the transgressions to continue for years “under their noses”.

They are also demanding overdue payments from the ­initiative be ­released to custodians.

Some have warned that it could spell difficulties in Australia’s relationship with PNG and help China’s bid to gain a stronger foothold in the region.

The track was reopened on April 18 – allowing the first commercial trekking groups since the start of the pandemic to pass – after police and KTA head Julius Wargirai raced to the scene and the PNG government agreed to sit down with the custodians.

Resource custodian Kila Sibolo, who led the blockade, accused some tour operators of “coming in as our colonial masters”, demanding that foreign operators making a profit pay what they owe.

“They have no regard for our laws so we have to remind them that we have laws that need to be complied with,” he said.

Another custodian, Norris Selu, said it was an issue of national sovereignty and that tourism operators who were “taking advantage of our resources” without benefiting PNG should be banned. “We don’t want that to happen – we want the tourists to come in – but if they can’t comply with our laws (we will have no choice),” he said.

He also criticised the Australian government’s complacency in the Pacific where Solomon Islands recently signed a security deal with Beijing.

“With our wartime history, we don’t want to go down that path, but if you guys leave us no alternative, if there is no respect for us and no working at a mutual understanding, that might be the path we would take,” he said.

Kokoda Historical managing director David Howell denies his company is one of those shirking its ­responsibilities. Picture: Aaron Francis

“Solomons has done the first move and PNG could follow them.”

Tour operators caught in the ­altercation say they are not to blame. Kokoda Historical managing director David Howell disputed the accusation that his company was one of those shirking its ­responsibilities, saying he worked with a local operator and was in the process of becoming certified.

He said a campaign of “misinformation” was being waged against him.

“Some of the things being said are untrue; my group was held up at Kovelo but it has nothing to do with registration of businesses, it has to do with ward payments,” he said.

“PNG is a very complex country. Their system doesn’t work the same as ours. The people up in the villages don’t understand why the money isn’t coming.”

Australian Kokoda Tours ­director Mick O’Malley also had a tour group involved in the incident and disputes claims the blockade was directed at tour ­operators, saying it stemmed from anger over “ward payments”.

His company became foreign-certified in February.

“A lot gets lost in translation. They don’t get the internet or the paper delivered so they’re not up to date with all the knowledge going on,” he said.

Adventure Kokoda owner Charlie Lynn, a former NSW MP, said communities along the track had had no support during the pandemic and had finally “pushed back”.

“There is still a lot of angst and it should never have got to this point because of the failure of the management put in place by the Australian government in 2009 when they assumed control of Kokoda Trail,” he said.

Kokoda veteran Reginald Chard, 98, said it broke his heart to see mismanagement plague the track since he fought there 80 years ago.

“It’s a beautiful place when you look at it, but it’s a terrible place when you have to live in it or fight in it,” he said.

Oro Province Governor Garry Juffa said it was acceptable for companies to partner a local company until they could be certified, but they could be required to backpay any tax owed.

“Some are not registered as a business in PNG and not registered with the IRC, our tax office, so they’re basically earning an income here, generating revenue for themselves, but not paying taxes which has been an ongoing issue,” he said.