Wish magazine’s best timepieces of 2019
Stop the clocks, put down your phone. It’s time to pay attention to the finest watches of the year.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon
The scope of A. Lange & Söhne’s watchmaking is vast and impressive — at once beautiful and breathtakingly technical. This is true of all its watches, but shockingly evident in the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon (main image, above). A tour de force of horological skill, it’s a complex beast, packing a host of complication – including perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph, tourbillon and the brand’s trademark large date display – into a 41.5mm white gold case, with a rich solid pink gold dial. Its front beauty is matched (if not eclipsed) by the traditionally, painstakingly hand-finished movement visible at the rear. POA
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Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
At the start of the year Audemars Piguet set tongues wagging with its unexpected, unconventional new Code 11.59 collection. A modern take on the classical round watch, 11.59 was a marked stylistic break from the famous Royal Oak (even though there’s a nod to the famous octagonal watch in the middle section of the case). It’s a sophisticated construction, with a complex, almost sculptural, case and a double-curved sapphire crystal with an internal dome and more subtle external curve. This perpetual calendar version adds to the drama with a glittering aventurine dial. RRP $109,800
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Breguet Marine Dame 9518
Recently the grand old maison of Breguet has been paying attention to its Marine collection – a line that pays tribute to the brand’s naval heritage and offers a sporty alternative to its usual dressy fare. And while the gents’ line is full of titanium and complication, it was this feminine Marine Dame that really stole the show. The case, in either rose or white gold, is 33.8mm across and the bezel is set with 60 diamonds. Arguably more precious than this circle of stones is the dial itself, finished in natural mother of pearl with an incredibly fine engine-turned guilloché motif in the form of the endlessly cascading sea. Delicate but powerful. RRP $44,800
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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
Thin watches are having something of a moment in watchmaking right now and one of the leading exponents is Bulgari, which keeps rolling out hits in its Octo Finissimo line. The latest is a chronograph that measures a mere 6.9mm thick for the fully cased creation and only 3.3mm for the movement itself, making it the thinnest automatic chronograph ever. That’s a lot of engineering in not a lot of space, especially when you consider Bulgari has managed to squeeze a peripheral rotor and a GMT complication into the mix. RRP $24,900
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Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Cartier’s famous Santos made a triumphant return last year and 2019 sees it add a chronograph complication. Fundamentally, the watch takes that classic Santos shape and offers it in a substantial 43mm case. The dial is a little more complex than normal, thanks to the addition of the chronograph, but Cartier has smartly avoided adding form-marring pushers, thanks to a clever design that places a subtle pusher at nine and the winding crown at three for the chronograph functionality. This version in steel, with a black bezel and rubber strap, lends the design some urban flair. RRP $12,600
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Chanel J12
Chanel’s J12 was an immensely important watch, one of the early fully ceramic watches that really broke through to the mainstream. It took the codes of a traditional dive watch and upended them with its glossy, ultra-hard ceramic case and bracelet. This year marks the 20th anniversary of J12 and the watch has been given a makeover, inside and out. The 38mm case has been given subtle ergonomic tweaks, but the big changes are on the inside. The modern new automatic movement is made exclusively for Chanel and features a stylish open-worked rotor. The only question is: black or white? RRP $8550
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Chopard L’Heure du Diamant
Chopard is best known for its expertise as a fine jewellery house, even though it started out as a watchmaker. With the Chopard L’Heure du Diamant, the skills of jewellery and horology meet. Inspired by a collection launched in 1969 that featured hardstone dials in materials such as lapis lazuli and malachite, this latest line of eight watches is a fitting tribute to the original. Of course the eye-catching stone dials are there, as are the four carats of attention-grabbing diamonds in the bezel. The 30mm case is white gold, as is the bracelet, which is finished in a very ’70s (and very chic) “bark” pattern. POA
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Dior La Mini D de Dior Mosaïque
Dior’s La Mini D de Dior has always been a watch with playful sensibility, thanks to its petite proportions, sprinkling of diamonds and colourful proclivities.
The latest version, the La Mini D de Dior Mosaïque, continues this tradition in great style. The steel case is 19mm across, with a single row of 53 diamonds on the bezel and dial options in a range of pastels. However, it’s with the woven strap that the party really gets started. The rainbow hues are woven into a tessellated mosaic — one that can’t help but shine on the wrist. RRP $6100
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Grand Seiko Spring Drive ‘Snowflake Blue’ SBGA407
In terms of finish and quality, the watches of Grand Seiko are among the finest in the world. The Japanese marque is famous for its exceptionally crisp case detailing and the intricate elements of its dials. Both are very much in evidence on this model, a soft blue version of the famous “snowflake” dial.
The watch is powered by Grand Seiko’s unique Spring Drive technology, which combines mechanical functionality with quartz-like accuracy, three days of power reserve and a silky-smooth second hand. RRP $7900
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Gucci Grip
Gucci is better known as a king of the runway rather than of the wrist, but its new unisex Grip is an impressive foray into savvy watch design. Inspired by ’70s skate culture, this cushion-shaped watch eschews hands in favour of a direct read display.
It’s a look that’s equal parts mid-’70s funk and Art Deco drama, and very now. Available in two sizes, and in steel or gold tones, this Gucci is good to go.
RRP $2745
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Hermès Arceau Oursin
The Arceau shape from Hermès is a real classic. The stirrup-shaped watch both stands out and is perfectly in keeping with the equestrian origins of the mighty fashion house – though it must be said that its latest evolution, the Arceau Oursin, has moved well beyond the utilitarian origins of the riding gear that inspired it. The Arceau Oursin case and dial are is set in diamonds – some 289 of them on the case, another 228 on the dial and a single rose-cut stone on the crown. All this ensures Hermès’ modern take on the stirrup is set to shine. RRP $75,600
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Hublot Big Bang Unico ‘Sang Bleu II’
Hublot is famous for its creative collaborations – the brand’s design department seems to be up for a challenge. The latest comes courtesy of the Sang Bleu, a multidisciplinary design (and tattoo) studio headed by ambassador Maxime Buchi. The first watch was a fusion of Hublot’s design DNA and Buchi’s love of bold geometry and isometric shapes. This second generation ups the ante, adding a chronograph complication. Visually arresting, the watch is also a technical feat – it can’t be easy to replace simple hands with complex cut-out shapes. The result is worth the effort. RRP $32,400
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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds
The Pioneer is Moser’s high-end take on a sports watch. It’s rugged, robust and on a rubber strap. This year the brand added a little shine to the Pioneer’s bluff exterior, thanks to a brand new case. Made from a combination of red gold and black DLC-coated titanium, it’s a very modern take on two-tone. And even though there’s a lot of gold in the case, it doesn’t distract from the beauty of the dial – a deep blue, treated in the brand’s hallmark fumé style, with the gold hands and hour markers serving only to make that blue deeper and more intriguing. RRP $31,500
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IWC Pilot’s Watch UTC Spitfire Edition ‘MJ271’
UTC is pilot-speak for “Universal Time Coordinated”. It’s also the name of one of IWC’s newest watches, the UTC Spitfire Edition “MJ271”. On the watch, the UTC refers to the second time zone, displayed in 24-hour time at the top of the dial. Beyond that, this watch is — as you’d expect — pure pilot, with an exceptionally legible dial, 41mm case that protects the movement from magnetic fields, and a lovely brown calfskin strap. What’s a little less expected is the fact that the case is made from ready-to-weather bronze and the dial is a complementary dark green. RRP $13,800
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest collection is dominated by a trio of complicated watches with jaw-droppingly beautiful enamel dials.
These dials, in a rich deep blue enamel, are extra special because of the delicate radial guilloché finish, which adds texture and depth to the equation.
The fact that the rays of the guilloché emanate from the ever-rotating tourbillon cage only adds to the on-the-wrist effect. And really, that tourbillon cage, with its black polished bridges, is gorgeous enough in its own right.
RRP $137,000
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Longines HydroConquest Black Ceramic
For years the HydroConquest has been Longines’ modern dive watch offering, a sporty watch that’s built tough and possesses some enviable everyman charm. Last year we were treated to a subtle redesign and some shiny new ceramic bezels. This year, the whole watch has been given the ceramic treatment. All 43mm of this 300m diver is realised in ultra-tough, virtually scratch-proof black ceramic. With its hardy automatic movement and a supple, textured rubber strap, this HydroConquest is ready for anything. RRP $4850
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Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air
Most watches make do with displaying the time using the conventional array of hands and numbers. That’s far too pedestrian for Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Spin Time Air, which makes use of tiny spinning cubes to display the hours. Every 60 minutes, two of the 12 bejewelled cubes spin rapidly, revealing the current hour in an instant. It’s an unorthodox, appealing way to tell the time, with the floating numbers made even more beguiling by the fact that almost every visible surface has been richly encrusted with a mixture of diamonds and rainbow-hued stones. POA
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Montblanc 1858 Geosphere
Trends are a fact of life, and this is as true in watches as it is anywhere else. At the moment, two of the hottest trends are green dials and bronze cases. The two meet on the latest version of Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere. The Geosphere is a smart and stylish (in an outdoorsy kind of way) take on a traditional dual timer, with day/night indicators in the form of the northern and southern hemispheres, making it a bold watch on the wrist. The popping combination of green dial and bronze case only adds to the impact. RRP $9340
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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph
The Seamaster Diver is one of Omega’s best-loved modern styles, and 2018’s updated design was a critical and commercial hit. This year the brand doubles down on the design, with the addition of a chronograph complication to the family. And while the watch is offered in a range of dial, case and bracelet options, we were struck by the contrast of black rubber and gold on this full Sedna gold model. The colour and texture contrasts between the rich case, the matt ceramic bezel, the wave-patterned dial and the smooth rubber bracelet make for one of the most luxe divers we’ve seen. RRP $35,500
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Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III
Australians love both solidly built dive watches and the massive natural wonderland off our eastern coastline known as the Great Barrier Reef. These two loves come together in Oris’ latest limited edition. This time, Oris has teamed up with the Reef Restoration Foundation to raise awareness of the plight of the reef and its inhabitants. This watch pays tribute to the marine paradise through its vivid blue dial and detailed caseback engraving. There are also several yellow highlights and an uncommon circular date display to keep things interesting above and below the waterline. RRP $3500
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Panerai Submersible Carbotech Marina Militare PAM979
For Panerai, 2019 will be known as the year of the Submersible. The Swiss brand with Italian heritage has spent some effort tweaking and expanding its series of professionally oriented dive watches. One striking example is the Marina Militare PAM979, a large 47mm piece with a case made from the lightweight carbon composite material Carbotech. Even the dial is made from carbon. If this watch has a stealthy, military air to it, that’s entirely appropriate – the “Marina Militare” text on the dial is a nod to Panerai’s long association with the Italian navy’s special forces. RRP $27,200
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Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P
Patek Philippe has a reputation for extreme classicism when it comes to watchmaking, which goes a long way to explain why this watch caused such a stir when it was released at Baselworld. The Alarm Travel Time builds on the Calatrava Pilot from a few years ago. This time around the brand has added two more pushers and a new complication. The mechanical alarm is pretty niche as far as functions go but the 5520P executes it in an exceptional manner, using technology and architecture from minute repeaters to make an alarm that works, and sounds, like no other. POA
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Piaget Possession
If possession is nine-tenths of the law, this Piaget is very much in the right. The 29mm watch isn’t for the faint of heart, as the white gold case is set with 162 brilliant-cut diamonds, the dial is set with 141 brilliant-cut diamonds, and the delicate bracelet boasts a whopping 317 diamonds. In total, you’re looking at 620 stones with a combined weight of 11.16 carats. Shine on.
RRP: $171,000
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Raymond Weil Freelancer Lady Black Diamond
Women’s watches typically tend towards the delicate and dainty. Not so Raymond Weil’s latest Freelancer Lady, championed by singer Dami Im. The 38mm watch is offered in sleek grey PVD, with a halo of 66 black diamonds set into the bezel. A grey calf strap completes the monochromatic look. And while the dark colour scheme could seem dour, Raymond Weil’s sensitive treatment keeps it chic. There’s also a twist on the dial – the date, typically a design afterthought, has been celebrated here, given a full half-moon aperture at the top of the dial. It’s a bold look, and it works. RRP $4500
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Rolex Yacht-Master 42
Few watches exude an attitude of casual insouciance as well as the Rolex Yacht-Master, and the latest version is no exception. The case glimmers in white gold, and if you detect more glimmer than usual it’s because the case is a little larger — 42mm instead of the more familiar 40. It must be said that the watch wears it well, the black dial and matching matt Cerachrom bezel keeping the proportions in check. The fact that Rolex has opted to use its Oysterflex bracelet, which is supremely comfortable, adds up to a watch that is stylish and quietly stealthy. RRP $36,950
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TAG Heuer Monaco 1969-1979 Limited Edition
The Monaco is a genuinely iconic timepiece, and not just because the bold, square chronograph was made famous on the wrist of Steve McQueen. It stands tall in the history of watchmaking as being among the first automatic chronographs to hit the market, way back in 1969. Fifty years on and this sporty timer is celebrating a significant anniversary. TAG Heuer has announced a series of limited edition releases, one for each decade of the Monaco’s life, and the first cab off the rank is this dark, handsome number with a green dial. The king of cool would approve. RRP $8600
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Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze
Tudor offered a clutch of strong new releases for 2019, from the surprising P01 to a charmingly retro steel and gold chronograph. But the watch that gave good face was, without doubt, the updated Heritage Black Bay Bronze. The earthy brown tones of the old model are out, replaced by a cool, slate-grey dial that’s subtly graduated and matched with a dark grey bezel. This more neutral, muted colour scheme allows the bronze case to shine even brighter. And that’s a good thing. RRP $5100
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Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
Ulysse Nardin’s C suite-worthy Tourbillon Free Wheel is an intriguing trompe l’oeil take on a timepiece. Underneath the glassbox sapphire of the 44mm case sits a range of components – tourbillon, power barrel, gear trains and the rest – all set against a dial of grey slate that could almost be the watchmaker’s tray. This approach dramatically reduces watchmaking to its essential elements, in stunning visual style. This Executive is all about leveraging old technologies in an ultra-modern way and the results speak for themselves. RRP $136,100
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
The Overseas is Vacheron Constantin’s answer to a luxury sports watch. And when it comes to this genre of timepiece it’s hard to top the combination of very thin, very complicated and very, very gold. The pink gold case (with matching bracelet that can easily be swapped out by the wearer) is a slender 8.1mm thick. It’s an impressive accomplishment when you realise Vacheron Constantin has managed to fit a fully automatic perpetual calendar (which doesn’t need manual adjustment until 2100) into such a slender space. High-end indeed. RRP $140,600
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Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Zodiac Lumineux
This dainty, delicately finished woman’s watch has a heck of a party trick up its sleeve. At a press of the button on the lower left-hand side of the case, the watch – seemingly by magic – generates light, flickering the constellation embedded in the dial into brief, enchanting life. What’s more there’s no battery at play – the timekeeping is purely mechanical and the light show is courtesy of the wonders of science. Activating the pusher causes a piezoelectric blade to vibrate, supplying power to the LEDs under the dial. Perfect for consulting your star sign. RRP POA
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Zenith Defy Inventor
The heart of any mechanical watch is the oscillator, which constantly moves at a regular rate and provides the “tick-tock” by which accurate timekeeping is determined. The oscillator is also a piece of technology that’s remained largely unchanged since its invention in the 17th century. Until Zenith revolutionised the space with the Zenith Oscillator. The entirety of the open-worked dial on the 44mm Defy Inventor is dominated by the star-shaped silicon oscillator, which constantly whirrs to its own (18 Hz) beat. It’s a marvel to behold, and beautiful in a singularly modern way. RRP $26,200
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