Want a unique watch? Ask the art world
The watch industry has a unique relationship with the arts world, producing both striking timepieces and enduring collaborations.
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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sketch
It’s fascinating to trace how a piece of art came to be. In Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Sketch, the workings are the art. It is inspired by the Italian tradition of schizzo, or sketch, a practice associated with the paintings, sculpture and architecture of the Italian Renaissance. The schizzi were shown to students of the masters for archival purposes and suggesting any improvement on the original. It’s an interesting concept to apply to the sketches of Bulgari horlogerie’s product creation executive director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, whose hand drawings of the watch’s inner movements – its micro-rotor, bridges and wavy Côtes de Genève – are transferred to the dial in a mediation on time, process and art. “For Bulgari, the sketch reveals the soul of a watch, just as a movement will become its mechanical soul,” says Bulgari horlogerie managing director Antoine Pin. “Hence, the intuition of the Bulgari creative studio: to merge sketch and movement back, art and technique, on the dial.” The new offering, released as part of Roman jeweller’s 140th anniversary, is available in 43mm steel or 40mm rose gold (limited to 70 pieces), as well the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch. $76,900
Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski
French sculptor Richard Orlinski, known for his mega, multifaceted animal sculptures – such as his Wild Kong gorilla on the Croisette in Cannes – is ideally suited to collaborating with Hublot. It’s not just that he can shrink his vision down to a (still quite brawny 45mm) dial, but that it entwines so well with the Swiss watchmaker’s creative philosophy. The two have partnered since 2017 and this year released the Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski, available in this punchy banana yellow ceramic and also in sky blue. Orlinski’s touch can be seen in the sculpting of the bezel, the case and the index. Ricardo Guadalupe, chief executive of Hublot – which has also collaborated with Japanese pop artist Takashi Murakami and Shepard Fairey – says the collaboration marks an alignment of values. “Richard understands Hublot – his pop-art style reminds us of Hublot’s unique art of fusion. We have a lot in common, we are both driven by passion,” he says. “In an era of ephemeral ‘collabs’ … Hublot demonstrates our ability to push the boundaries of art and watchmaking.” $148,000, with 30 of each model available
Rolex The Perpetual 1908
Rolex’s connection with the arts runs deep. But perhaps its most dynamic program is the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative, launched in 2002. It pairs accomplished creatives across visual arts, architecture and literature with emerging talents for a two-year exchange. This cycle’s program includes Chinese filmmaker Jia Zhangke with Filipino director Rafael Manuel, and French architect Anne Lacaton who chose Lebanese-Armenian architect Arine Aprahamian as her protégé. Previous mentors include author Toni Morrison, director Martin Scorsese and artist David Hockney. Ayesha Harruna Attah, Rolex Protégée for 2022-2024 of Bernadine Evaristo, says the prospect of working with the author was terrifying yet galvanising. “What excited me about Bernardine was her craft, her boldness and her disruptiveness. Working with somebody who takes risks is exciting to me as a person who likes to do likewise,” Attah says. “Writing is so solitary … encouragement is so crucial in our field.” Meanwhile, this ice-blue version of the Perpetual 1908 platinum dress watch dazzled at the Watches and Wonders 2024 fair. The “rice-grain” guilloché pattern on its 39mm dial is particularly beguiling. $48,600
This story is from the June issue of WISH.
