To Sicily, cultural melting pot

The largest island in the Mediterranean is easily navigated, especially in a sporty Alfa Romeo. But be prepared for frequent stopping to enjoy its stunning views and fabulous cuisine

The largest island in the Mediterranean is easily navigated, especially in a sporty Alfa Romeo. But be prepared for frequent stopping to enjoy its stunning views and fabulous cuisine

Flung off the Italian mainland into the glistening Mediterranean, the sun-kissed island of Sicily has a complex and exotic history steeped in Arabic and Greco-Roman influences. The proximity to Africa and Europe has helped to shape this seductive melting pot through the ages. It feels ancient and timeless, with a reputation forged on its classical history as much as its more recent traditions of bribery and corruption. I have long been enamoured of Sicilian produce and its food culture, weaving it into my culinary repertoire at home, so it had become a matter of urgency to discover this intoxicatingly diverse island. It didn’t disappoint. Sicily had flavour, taste, texture and freshness in abundance, its air thick with the fragrance of orange and lemon blossom.

My partner Margie Harris and I had flown across the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea from Rome to Palermo, where summer was in full swing. We collected our zippy Alfa Romeo sportscar from the airport and quickly embraced the Italian style of driving. We had forgotten to collect our GPS when we picked up the car but it didn’t matter as it turned out – the road signs and directions were clear and the maps excellent. Sometimes we took the autostradas if we were looking for the most direct and fastest way; otherwise we mostly meandered along the “S” roads, the main arteries of the island, so we could dip into village life as we chose.

Hiring a car to drive the length and breadth of Sicily allows freedom because you can tailor your own itinerary and have the bonus of being able to stop at a whim to sample street food or photograph the great views. Driving with an open roof and the wind blowing through our hair cranked our holiday spirits into another realm. We were ready to traverse the island and take in scenery that at times reminded us of North African landscapes, and at others of the Greek and Turkish coastlines.

Sicily’s geographical, historical and architectural wealth is staggering. We gained an immediate sense of the rich fusion of Greek, Byzantine, Arab, Baroque, Roman and Norman. The city of Palermo proved compelling in its contradictions, its former grandeur still in evidence though punctuated by larger-than-life characters and crazy taxi drivers, decaying palaces, crumbling theatres and churches, and bustling streets.

An early morning visit to La Vucciria, one of the city’s oldest open-air markets, proved the perfect showcase for the island’s produce. After spending a morning wandering streets lined with ancient stone buildings and their wrought-iron balconies – absorbing the atmosphere while keeping an eye out for darting Vespas – we stopped for lunch at Piazza Bellini, by the dusky pink domes of La Martorana church. I had my first taste of pasta alla norma, an eggplant, tomato and aged ricotta dish named after Bellini’s famous opera. Equally impressive were the pizzas, enormous, thin-crusted and simply adorned.

A few kilometres inland from Palermo lies Monreale, with a spectacular Norman cathedral that eclipses all others with its opulent grandeur and scale. Locals say a visit to Sicily isn’t complete until your eyes have feasted on this cathedral. The details are exquisite and it is certainly worthy of its fabled reputation.

Across the island, enduring Roman remains litter the landscape. Myths and archaeological sites surround many towns and date back to Phoenician and Greek times. I felt as if I was breathing in the classical history lessons remembered from long ago. To the west, Segesta has a well-preserved 420BC Greek amphitheatre with views to the coast. You will also find some fabulous full-bodied wines in this region.

Sicily’s west coast is rugged, wild and windswept from Trapani to Marsala, home to the famous fortified wine of the same name. Further around, Menfi is famous for its Ravida olive oil while Agrigento on the southwest coast is home to the Valle dei Templi, a superb collection of classical temples and catacombs in the Doric style. Stretched along the ridge of a valley and facing the sea, they are magical when lit up at night. One night we dined with them before us.

More ruins are found across the island at Siracusa, once the largest Greek city outside Athens. There is an old saying that civilisation is a city by the sea, a sentiment I share. It’s essential to visit the awesome Teatro Greco, a massive intact amphitheatre that remains in use. To get to the Temple of Apollo (the oldest Doric structure in Sicily) we drove across the Ponte Nouvo bridge to the island of Ortigia, the medieval centre of the city. We also visited the Duomo, one of Sicily’s grandest baroque cathedrals, and then wandered along the streets near the harbourfront. It was staggering to explore a place so alive in its history and not hard to conjure images of the ancient ruler, Dionysius, strutting about in his glory days.

We stayed at Caol Ishka, a converted farmhouse beside the Anapo River. Quiet and idyllic, it was perfectly located for exploring the Siracusa region. The infinity pool in the expansive garden was a welcome respite from the summer heat and we spent our siesta time swimming. Another drawcard was the food: pasta with bottarga (fish) and sea urchin roe; delicious tuna carpaccio; thumbnail-sized squid cooked in its own ink and dressed lightly with chilli; sweet red prawns with carrot emulsion – all delicious.

It was a five-minute drive to the local beach of Arenella, which feels off-the-beaten-track but is just a stone’s throw from the main road. We stopped at a beach cafe for a slice of eggplant armigiano, rustic and honest in its flavours. The towns of Noto, Modica, Ragusa and Caltagirone are also an easy drive. The loveliest time to see them is late in the day when the golden hues draw you back to medieval times.

We stopped at Noto and found retreat from the scorching heat at Caffe Sicilia, where we sampled some of the island’s best gelato, a basil and strawberry cassata, the best lemon granita imaginable, and tiny cannoli pastries stuffed with sweet vanilla cream. Various types of honey scented with herbs and blossoms are available to take away and will remind you of the place long after you return home.

In Modica, it seems every second shop makes and sells chocolate. We headed to Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, which came highly recommended. They use spices, herbs and aromatics to flavour their bitter dark chocolate and the nougat is sensational. Further inland, Caltagirone, famous for its blue and yellow ceramics, is quintessentially Sicilian. Its wares are sold across the island. Don’t miss seeing the amazing ceramic adornment of the Scalazza steps, a staircase leading to the church of Santa Maria del Monte.

The east coast from Siracusa to Messina faces the Ionian Sea, with the most accessible and popular beaches located between Catania and Taormina at the base of Mt Etna, one of the world’s largest and most spectacular live volcanoes. This mountain dominates much of the landscape in eastern Sicily. In Catania, Sicily’s second-largest city, we tasted some of the best food. The markets are inspiring and we adored walking around the back streets of the central district.

Later, we drove up the southern side of Etna, taking the narrow, winding road as far as the small village of Zafferana Etnea, passing endless citrus groves and vineyards. We found fabulous espresso and pastries in a cafe on the main square, sensing our closeness to the breathing heart of the mountain as we sat and gazed across at its molten centre. Back on the coastline, small villages dot the route. We visited Acireale, with its lemon groves, sulphur baths and more fine examples of Sicilian baroque, then filled the car with petrol at the more modest Fondachello, north of Riposto.

Further north, Taormina is considered the most chic of Sicily’s resort towns. Travellers throughout the ages have been besotted with Taormina’s perfectly preserved medieval centre and sophisticated elegance. It has also captured the imagination and desires of many a writer and artist. Founded by the Greeks as a centre for decadence, it has long been regarded as a gay resort town. These days it’s rather tame, with an air of respectability.

Walking along the corso in the early evening is akin to parading the catwalk in oh-so-fashionable Milan. It’s all about passeggiata (promenading), a favourite Italian pastime. And when the international arts festival gets into full swing in July and August, the vibe is positively cultured.

Taormina’s views across to Mt Etna and its billowing smoke are unsurpassable in one direction, and to the beaches below simply jaw-dropping. The small rocky outcrop of Isola Bella has a glamorous beach club awash with blue umbrellas and white sunbeds. Nearby on the seafront is Giardini Naxos, quieter and much more affordable. It’s also worth the short drive up the mountain to the tiny village of Castelmola, a cluster of medieval stone houses perched atop a rocky outcrop. This is picture-book material.

We bypassed the busy port town of Messina and headed north. The beautiful Aeolian Islands appeared like a pod of whales at sea, glistening in the sun a short distance from the coast. This is the Tyrrhenian Sea, separating Sicily and Sardinia, and its pristine waters are popular with local families. The beach at the small fishing village of Castel di Tusa is a great place to swim.

Much further along towards Palermo, Cefalu appears like a bigger version of Bondi Beach, seriously crowded all along its sandy beach. Modest hotels and an endless strip of bars, cafes, tavernas and fish restaurants line the shore. In contrast, its medieval town centre is tucked beneath a craggy mountain as if for protection.

Rich in culinary delights, Sicily produces some of the Mediterranean’s finest food and there’s no better way to explore the region’s history than through its cuisine. To this day, Sicily draws on its ancient gastronomic traditions, bringing the pleasures of good food, company, friendship and affection to tables everywhere. The fertile volcanic soils produce wine grapes, oranges, olives, wheat and the most flavoursome vegetables imaginable.

The seas teem with all manner of fish, which are displayed in the street markets of each town. Seafood and fish dominate Sicily’s culinary repertoire. Sardines and pesce spada (swordfish), calamaretti (tiny squid the size of a dollar coin), gambero rosso (small red prawns) and anchovies are everywhere, cooked simply on a charcoal grill. Sea urchin, crab and bottarga roe are laced through pasta to ambrosial effect. Eggplant reigns supreme and appears in such Sicilian classics as caponata (sweet and sour salad), parmigiana and pasta alla norma. The varieties of tomato are staggering, the flavour more so. Never had I tasted fruit so sweet – it was like kissing the sun.

Hospitality pervades in all areas, with friendliness and curiosity abounding. Sicily’s sunny disposition is reflected in its food, wine and joie de vivre. Pasta is mandatory as a first course; Sicily is where dried pasta was first produced, under Arab rule. Fennel, saffron, raisins and pine nuts reveal this Arabic influence.

Anchovies mashed with toasted breadcrumbs and tossed through pasta are a local favourite. Fritella (sauteed peas, artichokes and broadbeans) is another classic dish, made more delicious with crispy fried pancetta. Meat does get a look in (rabbit features on many menus), but there’s no doubt seafood and vegetables are Sicily’s best features. And, of course, there are the sweets – cannoli filled with vanilla, lemon or orange cream are island benchmarks.

Most bars and cafes offer panelle (chickpea fritters sprinkled with chilli salt) as a snack with drinks. My daily standard was either Aperol and tonic splashed over ice, or a Campari and soda, which was a perfect metaphor for the holiday. But, of course, lemon granita has to be Italy’s greatest contribution to quenching summer’s thirst. Sold absolutely everywhere, it is an essential accompaniment when promenading in the late afternoon. Gelati shares equal billing here and street carts do a roaring trade. Its ritual consumption embodies the very essence of Italy. The hardest thing is choosing a flavour.

Christine Manfield’s Fire: A World of Flavour is published this month (Penguin, $99.95)

PLACES TO STAY
Hotel Plaza Opera
Via Nicolo Gallo 2, Palermo
hotelplazaopera.com
Friendly staff and a central location just a three-minute walk to Teatro Massimo.

Grand Hotel et Des Palmes
Via Roma 398, Palermo
grandhoteldespalmes.com
Belle Epoque grandeur and a great location.

Hotel Villa Athena
Via Passeggiata Archeologica 33, Agrigento
athenahotels.com
Ideal for its proximity to the Valley of the Temples. Dine on the outdoor terrace beside the illuminated ruins and order simply.

Caol Ishka
Via Elorina Contrada Pantanelli, Siracusa
caolishka.com
Old farm buildings have been given a modern makeover as stylish bungalows with lofty ceilings. The restaurant, Zafferano, has an exotic menu.

Casa Talia
Via Exaudinos 1/9, Modica
casatalia.com
A small B&B with a pretty garden. Offers the best of slow living and divine food.

Una Palace
Via Etnea 218, Catania
tablehotels.com
Located in the city centre at the foot of Mt Etna, it has luxurious rooms in a restored 100-year-old building.

San Domenico Palace Hotel
Plaza san Domenico 5, Taormina
tablethotels.com
In a prime spot, perched on the cliffs, this converted 15th-century monastery is all about the view of the coast and Mt Etna. Easily one of the island’s finest hotels.

Campo Felice
Strada Provinciale, Collesano (inland from Cefalu)
[phone]
Ask for the separate cottage – or take the whole place if your budget allows.

WHERE TO EAT
Pizzeria Bellini
Piazza Bellini 6, Palermo
Pasta and pizza are the way to go here.

Zafferano
Via XII Gennaio 8, Palermo
Modern Sicilian cooking with a focus on seafood and terrific wine.

Antica Focacceria San Francesco
Via Paternostro 58, Palermo
Great pizza and breads.

Osteria Antica Sicilia
Via Roccaforte 15, Catania
Authentic traditional food with a seafood and antipasti bar. Has outdoor seating under a straw shade.

La Botte
Piazza Santa Domenica 4, Taormina
A taverna with great antipasti and an array of fresh fish on display to help you choose.

Caffe Sicilia
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 125, Noto
Has gelato with unusual flavours – basil, pepper, wild herbs and more – developed by pastry guru Corrado Assenza. It’s been in his family for four generations.

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto
Corso Umberto 1, 159, Modica
Opened in 1880, this is Sicily’s original chocolate shop.

Antico Caffe Spinnato
Via Principe di Belmonte 111, Palermo
Wonderful gelati and pastries.

MORE INFORMATION
thinksicily.com
lovesicily.com
agriturismo-sicilia.com