The serpent’s kiss

Making its debut around the neck of a star at the Venice Film Festival, Bulgari’s Serpenti Hypnotic Emerald necklace is the ultimate object of envy.

Zendaya wears Bulgari’s Serpenti Hypnotic Emerald necklace at the Venice Film Festival in September. Picture: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images

In certain circles, the serpent represents the power of temptation. No wonder it is one of the most iconic motifs of Bulgari and the form taken by its latest masterpiece, the Serpenti Hypnotic Emerald necklace. If you don’t feel an immediate rush while looking at it, check your pulse. The incredible necklace made its debut at the most recent Venice Film Festival, where it was worn by the actress Zendaya.

According to Bulgari’s jewellery creative director Lucia Silvestri, the design of the necklace was configured to such minute perfection that the light of the emerald never dims at any angle.

The Serpenti Hypnotic Emerald necklace

“The idea [with the Serpenti Hypnotic] was to exalt this unique gem and to do so it needed to be set in a very delicate way,” Silvestri tells WISH. “We achieved this result thanks to the full dedication, know-how and expertise that the goldsmith has dedicated to this artwork.”

According to Silvestri, the Hypnotic Emerald creation took Bulgari’s artisans 1800 hours to create. While the necklace looks solid, almost torque-like, so fine is the flexible platinum mesh that makes up the body that it naturally follows the contours of the collarbone. The scales are a blend of pavé and baguette diamonds and emerald cabochons. “The [end result] is really special – a one-of-a-kind artwork that deserved a really wow moment for itself. So we decided to create it, unveiling the necklace during the Venice Film Festival worn by our global brand ambassador Zendaya, an outstanding and elegant actress with a great character.”

All this splendour is just a prelude to the main attraction that rests within the serpent’s jaws: an almost impossibly green 93.83ct cabochon-cut Colombian emerald that never stops glowing. Originally, Silvestri had set her eyes on the impossible until her suppliers revealed this unparalleled stone. “I was looking for a 100 carat emerald, which is something very difficult to find,” says Silvestri. “I challenged our supplier and he proposed to me this incredible gem.”

The Colombian emerald used in the necklace

The Serpenti is part of a bigger high jewellery collection, Magnfica. Made up of an incredible 350 individual pieces, it is Bulgari’s most extensive and most expensive collection to date. Another familiar motif from the Bulgari archive weaves its way through these designs – ancient coins, a favourite of Silvestri herself. Magnifica is also an ode to women. One necklace features structural detail reminiscent of the work of the late architect Zaha Hadid, and the brilliant and rebellious painter Artemisia Gentileschi lends her name to a necklace resplendent with cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds.