The measure of a man, Italian style

TO be fitted for an Armani suit used to require a trip to Paris. Now a custom-made service is available in Sydney and Melbourne.

Armani

"IN these times of big fashion corporations, globalisation and brands run by accountants, I believe it is important to remember where fashion design started - with the desire to make beautiful clothes for people to wear," said Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani in 2004 of his decision to start a haute couture line, Giorgio Armani Prive.

No doubt some people thought he was mad to enter into an industry that is arguably in decline and one governed by arcane rules and protocols. Hardly a fashion season goes by without commentators questioning the relevance of haute couture – the process of making one-of-a-kind garments to a client’s exact specifications – these days.

The number of customers worldwide for this sort of women’s fashion, which can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars for a single garment, is thought to be in the hundreds. And yet houses such as Armani and Chanel insist their haute couture businesses are performing well – profi tably, even.

To purchase an Armani Prive item you will need to travel to Paris and attend several fittings but you can get the nearest thing to custom-made in Armani’s menswear without venturing that far. In 2006, Armani launched his Hand Made to Measure Service for men’s tailoring and this was recently introduced into the company’s Sydney and Melbourne stores. It’s not a bespoke service as such. Bespoke men’s suiting requires a similar commitment by the customer to that of haute couture (see our story on Savile Row on the following pages) but it does allow for a fairly broad range of customisation.

For a start, there’s the fit. While many men who can fit an off-the-rack suit just want something made specifically to their measurements there are also those who for myriad reasons don’t have that choice.

The Hand Made to Measure service allows for shorter or taller or wider men to get a suit to fit without having to compromise on style or quality. For a Giorgio Armani made-tomeasure suit a customer is measured in store and a suit from a choice of two styles (one the soft-shouldered, traditional Armani cut; the other a more fitted, structured style) is pinned on the body.

The customer’s measurements are recorded and sent to Italy where the suit is made. When it is returned six to eight weeks later final adjustments are made. Customers can choose from 200 suiting and 150 shirting fabrics. One vent, two vents, none - the choice is entirely yours. And the same goes for jacket buttons, lining and details. Despite this level of customising, the most reassuring feature for some will be the label. Every Made to Measure suit from Armani carries the label “Giorgio Armani for [insert your name here].” Perfetto!