Rhythm of life

FIRST World opulence, European sensibility and Third World poverty - Buenos Aires has all this, and more.

Walking the dogs, Buenos Aires style.

BUENOS Aires is a place of immigrants, a city of more than 5 million people, almost half of whom live below the poverty line, and distinctive barrios that have grown organically during its 200 years of independence.

 It’s a city that has lurched between dictatorship and democracy, a culture that thrives on soccer, polo and horseriding. The porteos (residents) are a friendly, gregarious bunch and pretty goddam sexy to boot. Eye-candy is everywhere, whatever your persuasion.

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On the flipside, taxes are high and there appears to be little money invested in public health, education or roadworks. Counterfeit notes do the rounds. I was stung by a taxi driver giving me a fake $50 in change. We were also advised to check change at bars late at night and try not to use large notes. Rule of thumb: carry lots of small notes for taxi fares and change bigger notes at reputable shops or hotels. Don’t bother with the banks unless you want to wait with the locals as they queue patiently for up to two hours at a time to swap notes for coins, needed for buses and trains. A strong distrust and dislike of banks and the financial system pervades after the economic crash a decade ago.

The Argentine capital is an intriguing mix of first world opulence, European sensibilities and third world poverty smeared with a veneer of anarchy. Businessmen, urban gauchos (the word is  South American approximation of cowboy) and transsexuals mingle comfortably and effortlessly together. The contrasts are everywhere, from the grand mansions with their art deco architecture to the brightly painted houses of the El Caminito alley in La Boca district and the crumbling facades of San Telmo.

Dog poop litters the streets and parks, it’s everywhere and it’s a dangerous sport to not look down when walking. Pooper-scoopers have not made it to this part of the world. In contrast, the streets of Recoleta, the well-heeled aristocratic part of town are surprisingly clean. We see loads of guys employed as dog-walkers, with anything from 10 to 30 dogs of all shapes and sizes being led along the streets. They invariably end up in the parks where the dog-minders hang out with each other and the dogs have a free-for-all away from the roads.

We rented an apartment overlooking the Hipodromo (racecourse), the local airport, the dome of the Planetario Galileo Galilei and the Rio de la Plata at the northern end of Palermo, the city’s largest barrio to the north of the centre that is divided into four parts: Palermo, Palermo Soho, Palermo Hollywood (sometimes linked together and called Palermo Viejo) and Palermo Chico (or Barrio Parque), a tiny pocket that is home to grandiose mansions, embassies, the super rich and media stars.

Palermo Viejo has soul. There are small, interesting boutique hotel properties opening up in renovated buildings. There’s a palpable energy on the streets and it’s the green centre of the city, with acres of parks and gardens. It’s vibrant, funky, diverse. There’s a sense of connection with the world, reflected in its fabulous shops, boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants, many with outdoor spaces and courtyard gardens. Specialty shops and boutiques are often well-designed spaces that make brilliant use of natural light, creating terrific and engaging architectural chemistry.

The food choices in this district are fabulous and staggeringly diverse. I am completely enamoured, the list so long I have to return to explore further. Menus are a mix of modern, traditional and futurist; beef from the parrillas (steak houses) has never tasted better, the seafood is sensational, ceviche is as popular as sushi, designer pizza reigns supreme, while dulce de leche (the most delicious caramel) is one of the most defining tastes of the city. Alfajores – little sweet biscuits, always with dulce de leche in some form or other – are served with coffee any time of the day. There are even cafes that have entire menus featuring dulche de leche; it’s wicked in its goodness. It’s served for breakfast to spread on toast or for dipping your croissant or sweet pastry.

The cocktail culture is among the finest in the world and many of the bars are intimate and seductive. The cool factor is extremely high. I find myself on a taste journey, sampling deliciously smooth and elegant Malbec wines from Mendoza, the premier wine region of Argentina, and working my way through the different drop-dead, gorgeous Torrontes, a local white grape, crisp and spicy that sings on the palate. What’s not to like?

Buenos Aires is best known for its tango, which brings the city alive late at night. Cruise the streets of San Telmo on the weekends and you will see the locals dancing tango in the streets in or around Plaza Dorrego, where the small, intimate tango clubs are plentiful. The streets are cobblestoned and small local bars appear on every corner. Antique traders have made this barrio their home, yet it has elements of being rundown: a few tatty edges, some crumbling houses and a different energy to other parts of the city. Potentially alternative with a slightly bohemian edge, it’s a place where you sense change occurring.

The city is also renowned for its leather, handcrafted shoes and boots. Glassware, lighting and design are also  prominent features. I have never seen more lighting shops in one place in my life, the choice is staggering.

We move to the Park Hyatt Hotel in Recoleta to experience a different side of Buenos Aires. The  extravagance here is astonishing compared to elsewhere. We pay homage to Evita, laid to rest at the Recoleta cemetery with its rows of cement and marble family mausoleums and crypts. The MALBA museum, organised around a private collection of one of the city’s biggest art connoisseurs and dedicated to preserve and promote Latin American art, is housed in one of the best examples of modern design in Palermo Chico. We walk along nearby Avenida Libertador and Avenida Figueroa Alcorta to ogle at French classicism architecture and staggering wealth.

As a juxtaposition, right across the railway track, sandwiched between the Autopista Ilia – the main thoroughfare for traffic to San Isidro and the glamorous northern suburbs – lies an enormous shanty town, Villa 31 (it’s even listed on the map). Tens of thousands of people live in this poverty-stricken slum, having erected makeshift houses from anything they can scavenge. Some dwellings are three or four storeys high. Villa 31 is run like a mini city, controlled by the mafia and police have no access. It’s a perverse sight as we glide past on the freeway.

Like most large and overcrowded cities around the world, Buenos Aires offers both sides of the coin in equal measure. But, whatever your fancy, it has everything a cultured city needs to shine, to appeal and seduce. It beckons – it is after all, only a direct flight away. Let a little Latino magic wash over you and before you know it, you will be able to tango like the porteos. It’s a place that gets under your skin, it touches your soul.

Eat + drink

Bar 6
Armenia 1676 (between El Salvador and Honduras)
Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
A favourite breakfast spot with decent espresso, fresh orange juice, the best pastries and croissants, perfectly cooked eggs and toasted sandwiches. The blackboard menu changes as snacks morph into lunch and dinner. The space has a cool warehouse design. Locals come to work on their laptops, lounge around, have meetings etc.

La Cupertina
Cabrera 5296 (at Godoy Cruz), Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
This corner shop makes the best empanadas and chivitos.

La Vineria de
Gualterio Bolivar Bolivar 865 (between Independencia and Estados Unidos), San Telmo, phone [phone]
A small culinary gem, the food inspired by Spain’s El Bulli, yet not mimicked. Has a sense of its own style; choice of seven or 11-course tasting menus.

Sucre
Sucre 676 (between Figueroa and Castaneda), Belgrano, phone [phone]
Modern Argentinean food, fab post-industrial warehouse space, best wine list - tres chic.
 
Minga
Costa Rica 4528 (between Armenia and Malabia), Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
Hip space, outdoor and indoor seating, funky crowd. Menu is modern; fresh ingredients star; the beef with chimichurri (herb and chilli sauce) is a fave.

Cluny
El Salvador 4618 (between Malabia and Armenia), Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
Laidback space, smart food – clean, pure flavours.

Bar Uriarte
Uriarte 1572 (between Honduras and Gorriti), Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
Another great space, kitchen at front street window, courtyard garden at back. Menu is perfect for lunch – salads, sandwiches and more. Main courses come with salad/veg, a glass of water, beer or wine.

Ceviche
Costa Rica 5644 (between Bonpland and Fitz Roy), Palermo Hollywood, phone [phone]
Peruvian restaurant that specialises in ceviche.

Osaka
Soler 5608 (at Fitz Roy), Palermo Hollywood, phone [phone]
Spunky Japanese food fuses effortlessly with Latino Peruvian flavours.

Fresh Market
Azucena Villaflor (at Olga Cossettini), Puerto Madero, phone [phone]
Worth a visit for lunch if you’re wandering around these parts. Fresh organic food, salads and sandwiches are the way to go when ordering. The space also houses a rather expensive gourmet food store.

Olsen
Gorriti 5870 (between Carranza and Ravignani), Palermo Hollywood, phone [phone]
An excellent vodka bar – think Marimekko meets BA.
 
Casa Cruz
Uriarte 1658 (between El Salvador and Honduras), Palermo Soho, phone [phone]
Lush, velvety lounge, ideal for cocktails. Opens at 8pm.

Milion
Parana 1048 (between Marcelo T de Alvear and Sante Fe), Barrio Norte, phone [phone]
Stylish glamour, art deco colonial mansion. Among the great cocktails, the pisco sour creates a new benchmark.
Have lunch on the terrace.

Gran Bar Danzon
Libertad 1161 (between Arenales and Sante Fe), Recoleta, phone [phone]
One of the city’s best wine and cocktail bars; many Torrontes and Malbec wines from Mendoza. Try the ceviche tacos.  

Hotels

Park Hyatt Duchau Palace, Avenida Alvear 1661, Recoleta
buenosaires.park.hyatt.com
A beautiful renovation of a former aristocratic Belle Epoque mansion in the heart of the most well-heeled district. The place to stay to soak up some of the area’s sophisticated elegance. The suites have outdoor terraces and generous space.

Five (Cool Rooms)
Honduras 4742 (between Armenia and Malabia), Palermo Soho
fivebuenosaires.com
Cool minimalism; small intimate property in the heart of the action.
 
Mine Hotel
Gorriti 4770, Palermo Soho
minehotel.com
Hip boutique hotel; great location, easy walk to many of the better restaurants, cafes and bars.