New watches from Bulgari Serpenti, Van Cleef & Arpels and Dior
Precious timepieces that hero craftsmanship, original gem settings and a certain gleaming kind of élan
Golden hour will always have appeal, especially when some of the top jewellery maisons find eternal inspiration in reimagining what a gold watch can be.
Slithering success
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Infinity
Roman jeweller Bulgari is staging a travelling exhibition this year to fittingly celebrate the 75th anniversary of its legendary design, the Serpenti. There are also new takes on this most glamorous motif, famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra and other similarly bold bombshells such as Sophia Loren. A metamorphosis of the serpent—a symbol of fertility, eternity and renewal—is found in this updated version of the Serpenti Tubogas watch, which for the first time features diamonds set along the snake’s sinuous body. The gem setting is a true feat of craftsmanship, adding extra sparkle to the construction of the Tubogas Infinity bracelet, which utilises rose gold coils to wrap the wrist. Proof then, that the Serpenti watch may have made its debut in 1948, but it remains the ideal expression of exuberant Bulgari style. $127,000
Lucky Charm
Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Gold Guilloché and Carnelian Alhambra
French jewellery maison Van Cleef & Arpels has a long history in secret watches and the charm of them is quite likely eternal. For really, who isn’t tickled by the marvellous revelation of a jewel that also can tell the time? The latest addition to the maison’s collection of secret timepieces is a new Sweet Alhambra watch, launched at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. The rose gold creation features the signature Van Cleef & Arpels four-leaf clover-inspired charms – which made their debut in the first Alhambra long necklace in 1968 as a celebration of luck – and guilloché detail mixed with striking carnelian. The piece showcases the craftsmanship of the house, from the stone cutting through to the polishing. The new carnelian and rose gold combination is available across three more Alhambra creations, including a reversible ring. $28,900
Gem-ology
Gem Dior
Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior fine jewellery, expresses her love of gemstones in the bold, geometric shapes and unusual gem setting of the Gem Dior timepiece. The watch belongs to a new collection that includes both jewellery and watches, and employs alluring stones, colours and techniques for maximum impact. The rarefied world of couture and fabric samples from Monsieur Dior’s archives inspired the collection, which sees diamonds set in angular and asymmetrical formation, burnishing the watch’s sparkle. The 27mm case is crafted in yellow gold. Meanwhile, the bezel is set with 37 diamonds, some 360 diamonds (6.42 carats) adorn the bracelet links and the polished yellow gold Dauphine hands are studded with 10 diamonds. $145,000
