Interior designer Tamsin Johnson’s guide to Paris
The style setter shares her top 10 must-dos in the City of Light from her favourite flea market treasure troves to the museums that most inspire her.
The Sydney-based interior designer makes regular pilgrimages to the City of Light for sourcing and inspiration. Here she reveals her latest finds following a few weeks spent in the French capital during the European summer.
1. Maison de Verre
This beautifully preserved home was partly designed by one of my favourite architect-designers, Pierre Chareau, for Dr Jean Dalsace and his wife Annie in the late 1920s. It is a considered an important step away from Art Deco into modernism. Chareau later designed artist Robert Motherwell’s Long Island home and studio. Be sure to book a tour in advance: Maison de Verre – French for “house of glass” – shouldn’t be missed.
31 rue Saint-Guillaume, 75007 Paris
2. Les Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen, Porte de Clignancourt
Get an early start and break the back of jet lag at the flea market. Both sentimentally and not, it’s one of my favourite places in Paris. This is where some of the best dealers in Paris show their wares. Weave through the sellers outside then retire inside for a cup of tea and a pain au chocolat. A personal favourite is S.A.R.L Khephren, specialist in antique and contemporary door hardware. I guarantee you will find a unique new
door handle that will be remarked upon by all.
41 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Paris
3. Tuileries Garden walk
A lovely stroll is through the landmark (and huge) Tuileries Garden, which was commissioned by Catherine de’ Medici in 1564 as the gardens to the Tuileries Palace. Start at the Musée de l’Orangerie (a former tennis court) and wander through the placid curved rooms to revel in Monet’s Water Lilies: absolutely breathtaking and not at all clichéd. Next meander through the garden past the ponds and Dubuffet’s 1972 statue Le Bel Costume before ending up at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs on the rue de Rivoli. The permanent collection is incredible and there is always something interesting exhibited in either fashion, art or the decorative arts.
Place de la Concorde, 75001 Paris
4. Maison La Roche
A notable house designed by Le Corbusier with his cousin Pierre Jeanneret for Swiss banker Raoul La Roche in 1923. It is an architectural gem that houses a great deal of other work designed by Le Corbusier. It also marked the first of Le Corbusier’s furniture collaborations with Perriand. You will need to book a tour, but it is open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am until 6pm and is well worth it.
10 square du Docteur Blanche, 75016 Paris
5. Bookshops
Bibliophiles must head to Librairie 7L, which was founded by Karl Lagerfeld in 1999 and also offers custom book curation for individuals. Also try Yvon Lambert Gallery – you will find it in the Marais – which has a very cool edit indeed. Both have remarkable collections and happily ship to Australia, so there’s no reason to hold back.
7 rue de Lille, 75007 Paris
14 rue des Filles du Calvaire, 75003 Paris
6. Galerie Chenel
This family business, established in Paris in 1999, is dedicated to exceptional sculpture. It specialises in Roman archaeological objects and counts the Louvre as a client. It also contributes thematic exhibitions to London’s Masterpiece and Frieze Masters art fairs, as well as TEFAF New York.
3 Quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris
7. Ogata
Ogata is a Japanese restaurant, boutique and tea shop in the Marais established by Japanese polymath Shinichiro Ogata. I consider it an architectural must-see: a glorious mansion and a great change of scenery, immaculately executed in every regard. You may have noticed Paris has a love affair with Japanese food and this is par excellence.
16 rue Debelleyme, 75003 Paris
8. Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature
The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, the museum of hunting and nature, is a private museum dedicated to the study of man’s relationship with animals through ancient, modern and contemporary art. It is housed in a merger of two beautiful old hôtel particuliers and the curation is some of the best I have ever witnessed. Simply magical.
62 rue des Archives, 75003 Paris
9. Musée Yves Saint Laurent
This is a stunning exhibition space and gallery. The Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent is not only a museum of the designer’s clothes and sketches but an exquisite homage to the decorative arts in general. Notably, you can walk through Yves’s office, which is essentially untouched. It is perhaps one of the most inspiring rooms I’ve seen.
5 avenue Marceau, 75116 Paris
10. Simrane and browsing in Saint Germain
Textile buffs should be sure to make time for a visit to Simrane, on my favourite street in Saint Germain: rue Bonaparte. They sell simply beautiful upholstery and trims. This is tapestry, brocade and jacquard heaven. From floral quilted duvets to tablecloths, napkins and pillows, it is mouth-watering and might cause you to lose several hours just browsing. (23 and 25 rue Bonaparte). I’d then recommend wandering along to perfumery Buly (6 rue Bonaparte) before weaving around to Galerie Doria (1 rue des Beaux Arts), Jousse Entreprise (18 rue de Seine), Galerie Pascal Lansberg (36 rue de Seine) and Maisonjaune Studio which has fabulous antique cane pieces (42 rue de Seine). Finish up your Left Bank tour with a stop at Galerie Matthieu Richard (34 rue de Seine) and then celebrate with a glass of wine at La Palette, which is a little bistro full of history, art-filled rooms and with a nice uninterrupted feel to it.
Rue Bonaparte and rue de Seine, 75006 Paris
This story was featured in the September French issue of WISH.