What’s old is new

The finest watch houses keep their classics alive with subtle, evolving modifications, while also embracing the modern.

MODERN – ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 40 GEM-SET

When it was first released in 1992 the Rolex Yacht-Master was billed as a gentleman sailor’s watch. Recently the Yacht-Master has been enjoying something of a renaissance. This year Rolex released a high-jewellery version with a colourful, fully gem-set bezel, consisting of 32 sapphires, eight tsavorites, and a diamond at 12, which definitely puts the luxe into sports-luxe. POA

CLASSIC – ROLEX CELLINI MOONPHASE

If you close your eyes and imagine a Rolex, the chances are good that you’re thinking of one of their iconic, Oyster-cased watches, perhaps a Datejust or a Submariner. Understandable, but there’s another, more traditional side of the Big Crown, one perfectly encapsulated with the Cellini Moonphase, an elegant gold dress watch full of fine detail. RRP $33,900

MODERN – HUBLOT TECHFRAME FERRARI

Hublot’s fusion-filled designs are, in many ways, the epitome of a new wave of watchmaking, with large, high-adrenaline machines. Nowhere is that more evident than the Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph in carbon, the latest collaboration with the Italian car marque. The lever style monopusher chronograph, finished in Ferrari red, only adds to the automotive appeal. RRP $177,000

CLASSIC – HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION TITANIUM RACING GREY

As far as Swiss watch brands go, Hublot is definitely on the young-ish side, founded in 1980. But even though they’ve been in business for only a few decades, the bold brand has had a big impact, with a disruptive approach and a porthole-inspired look that has become a core of the brand’s identity. The Classic Fusion, such as this monochrome titanium Racing Grey model, offers a more subdued, refined interpretation. RRP $9900

MODERN – CARTIER ROTONDE DE CARTIER MINUTE REPEATER MYSTERIOUS DOUBLE TOURBILLON

For a brand so well regarded for its heritage and tradition, Cartier can be quite avant-garde when they put their minds to it. The Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon houses the stunning new caliber 9407MC, that combines one of Cartier’s trademarks, a mysterious complication with – for the first time – a minute repeater, an ingenious system of hammers and gongs that chimes the time at the press of a button. POA

CLASSIC – CARTIER TANK LOUIS CARTIER

There are classic watches, and then there are Classic Watches. Cartier’s Tank falls very much into the latter category, and for good reason. Celebrating its 100th birthday this year, the instantly recognisable case has graced the wrists of some of the last century’s most famous people. Aside from the pink gold case, this Tank is nearly indistinguishable from the first Tank Louis Cartier released in 1922. And that’s why it’s great. RRP $14,000