What Queen Mary’s coronation outfit tells us

Confident, regal and, quite crucially, modern, the Australian-born queen signalled her own personal style on this historic occasion.

King Frederik X and Queen Mary on the balcony of Christiansborg Palace in Copenhagen. Picture: AFP

With a signature, a proclamation to the people and a carriage ride surrounded by hundreds and thousands of well wishers, the former Crown Princess Mary was proclaimed Queen consort of Denmark on January 14 alongside her husband of 20 years, the newly crowned King Frederik X.

The beautiful simplicity of the occasion befit the Australian-born monarch who has ascended to her position with much grace.

This grace has always been expressed in her style – elegant, regal, and with an occasional twist of Danish eccentricity and Australian ease.

The former marketing executive, who famously met her prince in a Sydney pub during the Olympics, understands the importance of sartorial diplomacy. This art of signalling one’s values and a sense of people and place, was expressed in her choice of outfit for this historic moment.

The monarch opted for a snowy white gown in by 35-year-old Danish designer Soeren Le Schmidt. The designer expressed his gratitude on Instagram. “Beyond grateful,” he wrote. “Thank you for choosing me.”

Danish King Frederik X and wife Queen Mary. Photo: Getty Images

Le Schmidt, who made the dress in just fourteen days, told Vogue Scandinavia, “I was very honoured, happy, proud, and not least grateful to be asked to design this particular dress. The first dress that Queen Mary would wear under her new title as Queen – a dress for the history books – means a great deal. I am very moved.”

Queen Mary has worn pieces from the young designer, known for his tailoring and vibrant hues, before (including to the rather more pomp-filled coronation of King Charles III). His designs attract women of style and substance – indeed former Danish Prime Minister Helle Thorning-Schmidt opened his spring/summer ‘24 show in August last year.

The belted-in and sleek gown in a wool fabric was classic with oomph, true to the royal’s personal style. The royal often opts for long-sleeved monochromatic styles in a fit and flare silhouette. A certain high fashion flourish was added with the white sash thrown over the shoulder. She looked confident, regal and, quite crucially, modern.

However, it was the colour that perhaps summed up what Queen Mary stands for. White is, of course, a colour of the Danish flag. The Danes have welcomed the former Mary Donaldson with great warmth. It is also the colour of women’s suffrage, and per Vogue US, a symbol of integrity and morality. It is an entirely fitting hue for the occasion. The Princess of Wales, to whom Queen Mary is frequently compared, also opted for a white dress to the coronation of King Charles III in May last year. Meanwhile as Laird Borrelli-Persson, senior archive editor at Vogue US noted on Instagram, the bridal references of the look might also be a nod to ideas of “commitment and union with duty and nation.”

The colours of Denmark were represented in Queen Mary’s choice of jewels too. She wore the Ruby Parure (set) of earrings, a brooch and hair clips. The suite was made for the coronation of Napoleon. Queen Mary has worn the tiara, crafted in 1804, to occasions such as royal weddings and state banquets.

The most sentimental component of Queen Mary’s outfit however was her brooch, an ordensportrættet, which features an illustration of Queen Margrethe II, Mary’s mother-in-law – who set in motion Mary’s new future with her abdication on New Year’s Day. The portrait, surrounded by pearls and diamonds, is testament to the power of clothing to pay tribute to family, duty and a symbol of history in motion.