The 20 most iconic watches of all-time
From the classics to a few cutting-edge releases, we round up the most impressive timepieces currently on the market.
When it comes to the history of watchmaking, there is no shortage of iconic pieces. Some changed the way timepieces are made, with new technologies, designs and innovations, while others helped to redefine the way our wristwear looks and feels thanks to new materials or aesthetic breakthroughs. So when it comes to compiling a list of the all-time classics, the challenge is not finding inspiration – it’s narrowing it down to just a few.
Somehow, we’ve managed to land on a list of the watches that we think are quite possibly the best of all time. Though instead of focusing purely on the classics, we wanted to look at a mix of iconic releases, as well as updated versions of timeless models and relative newcomers that are shaping the future of the industry. Here are 20 of the best.
1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition
It was the blockbuster release that wasn’t. Although the latest instalment of the 007 franchise, No Time To Die, is still to hit cinemas – it’s now due in April next year – we could still enjoy a taste of Bond, thanks to the release of this, the very timepiece he wears on screen. Slightly slimmer than Omega’s standard Diver 300M watch, thanks to the sapphire-crystal glass, it features a titanium mesh bracelet and is powered by Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8806, one of the most precise mechanisms in the industry. It is a timepiece for now, but also forever.
$13,075; omegawatches.com
2. Longines ‘Spirit Chronograph’
A tribute to the pioneering spirit that defines many of Longines’ finest timepieces, this is a hark back to the glory days of travel and the legendary pioneers that defined it. But as you’d expect from Longines, it also features the finest technological components, such as a COSC-certified chronometer and self-winding mechanical movement, with a 64-hour power reserve. Its sleek design and elegant sunray blue dial are housed in a scratch-resistant sapphire-crystal glass. A timeless piece that celebrates the past and brings it into the present.
$4500; longines.com
3. Rolex Submariner Date 41mm
Originally launched in 1953, the Submariner Date not only became an instant classic but also set the gold-standard for divers’ watches. Its unidirectional rotating bezel is not merely a distinctive design feature, but also one of the watch’s crucial functionalities, allowing divers to accurately and safely monitor time beneath the water. Available in a range of customisable colours, materials and configurations, today there are few timepieces more classic or more coveted than this iconic Rolex model.
$20,200; rolex.com
4. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight navy Blue
Tudor’s first divers’ watch release arrived in – you guess it – 1958. This, then is a tribute to that very first edition and is a modern update on the Tudor classic. In keeping with the original proportions, it features a 39mm diameter case and a distinctive navy blue dial and bezel. It’s offered in a range of bracelets, but we like this riveted steel version, which not only looks sharp, but like the legacy of that original Tudor timepiece, will last forever.
$5000; tudorwatch.com
5. Patek Philippe 6102P Celestial, Moon Age
Every so often, a watch arrives that stops you in your tracks. Few more so than this, a masterpiece of design and technicality from the iconic Swiss watchmaker. Its dial features a rotating chart of the heavens, with a display of the night sky visible from Geneva, that charts the movement of the stars and the phases of the moon. Available in rose gold or platinum versions, this is not simply a timepiece but an artwork on your wrist.
POA; patek.com
6. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronograph 44 Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition
A lot of brands like to talk up their charitable efforts, but few put their money where their mouth is quite like Breitling. The watchmaker is leading the fight for ocean conservancy by partnering with Ocean Conservancy to support its efforts to fight pollution. The two NATO straps on this limited-edition model are also crafted from ECONYL yarn, an innovative new fabric that is made from repurposed nylon waste, housed in 100 per cent recycled packaging. And its iconic blue dial and bezel ensure it makes an impact not just on the planet, but on the eye, too.
$8390; breitling.com
7. Apple Watch Series 6
Five years ago, Apple shook up the timekeeping landscape with the release of the Apple Watch. And while the original was a game changer, the Series 6 takes things to an entirely new level. Not only does it look great – we’re fans of this gold version with the mesh strap, available with either a 40mm or 44mm case – it also allows you to monitor your blood oxygen level, your sleep habits, your workout plan and more. Oh, and it also tells the time.
$1119; apple.com
8. Hermès Slim d‘Hermès 39.5mm
This is what Hermès does best. Sleek, understated design, using only the finest materials and attention to detail. The clue is in the name: the ultra-flat mechanical movement makes this a slender addition to your wrist, while the matte havana alligator strap reflects the fashion house’s heritage as one of the finest makers of leather goods on the planet. Not for those who like to show off, it‘s the subtlety of this timepiece that makes it one of the all-time classics.
$9950; hermes.com
9. Gucci ‘Grip’
The Italian fashion house has rarely been one for playing by the rules, and with the arrival of creative director Alessandro Michele in 2015, the brand has created not just a distinct aesthetic, but a whole Gucci universe. Case in point is this unique design. Crafted from yellow gold and emblazoned with interlocking Gs, it features three separate windows that indicate the hour, minute and date. Watch classicists might be left clutching their pearls, and there’s little denying it is not for the faint of heart – but Michele’s Gucci would not have it any other way.
$2255; gucci.com
10. Richard Mille RM72-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph
There are flashy watches and then there are Richard Mille watches. This bold, skeletonised design of the RM72-01 is not simply fun to look at – although it certainly is – but allows you to see the intricacy that has set the brand apart and made it a favourite of high-performance athletes around the world. The patented flyback chronograph provides additional precision and makes it less sensitive to disturbance, while the watch also uses a platinum rotor with ceramic ball bearings, cutting down on bulk while allowing the barrel to be optimally wound. In short, it is a marvel of engineering and design.
POA; richardmille.com
11. Cartier Santos de Cartier
In 1904, Louis Cartier was approached by famed Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont, who wished to be able to tell the time while flying. The result was not just the creation of one of the first-ever wristwatches, but a revelation – and a legacy-making timepiece. With its rounded edges, clear dial and exposed screws, the Santos de Cartier has been admired – and imitated – for the best part of a century. Today, it is still a staple of the brand’s collection and comes with interchangeable steel and leather bracelets. It is not just a watch, but a piece of history.
$10,700; cartier.com
12. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Edition ‘Le Petit Prince’
Before he was known to generations as the writer of iconic children’s tome The Little Prince, Antoine de Saint -Exupéry was recognised as a pioneering aviator, both before and during WWII. This special edition of pilot’s watch is a tribute to his services to air travel, featuring a midnight blue dial and a brown calfskin strap with cream stitching that is reminiscent of Saint-Exupéry’s flight suit. And much like novella that inspired it, it is an endearing and enduring classic for the ages.
$6550; iwc.com
13. TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02
Celebrity endorsements are everywhere these days, but some are hard to beat. In 1969, “king of cool” Steve McQueen took to the screen in classic racing film Le Mans – and on his wrist was a TAG Heuer Monaco. In the years since, this distinctive square chronograph watch has become one of the most iconic timepieces of all time. Its blue dial, horizontal boxes and red chronograph hand give it a racing touch. Because you might never be as cool as Steve McQueen, but at least this gets you a little bit closer.
$9200; tagheuer.com
14. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
The 18-carat pink gold case, the screw-locked crown, the octagonal bezel – few timepieces are as distinctive or as impressive as this one from Audemars Piguet. The 42mm case makes a real statement while the black dial with its so-called “Méga Tapisserie” pattern adds a touch of subtle elegance to an otherwise eye-catching model. Water resistant to 100m and with a 50-hour power reserve, it is among the most iconic timepieces in recent memory.
$101,800; audemarspiguet.com
15. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Crafted from stainless steel and featuring a 22-carat gold automatic movement, this piece is inspired by the wind rose – a tool used to gauge wind speed and direction – and as the name suggests, it is a tribute to travel. The black dial features a subtle Maltese cross and red highlights, giving it a subtle, timeless appeal and the ideal watch for those on the move – whether for work or play.
$36,500; vacheron-constantin.com
16. Bell & Ross BR V2-93 GMT Blue
Best known for their pilots’ watches featuring rugged square cases, Bell & Ross timepieces aren’t for everyone. But this edition is another cool, contemporary timepiece, made with travellers in mind. Its distinctive blue dial, large numbers and sleek design makes it a chic yet practical option for those on the go. And in case you missed the references, the second hand counterweight is subtly crafted in the shape of an aircraft.
$4900; bellross.com
17. Bulgari Octo Finissimo in Ceramic
This black, sandblasted ceramic timepiece features an extra-thin mechanical movement and a transparent case back. You’d expect a brand like Bulgari to produce beautiful timepieces, and they do, but here they’ve really outdone themselves. Its wafer-thin ceramic case – just 5.5mm – makes it the slimmest full ceramic watch with a mechanical movement on the market. It is not just a beautiful object but a marvel of watchmaking at the highest level.
$24,000; bulgari.com
18. Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic Blue
Featuring a microblasted and polished blue ceramic case and a matte blue skeletonised dial, this is one of the most stunning timepieces in the Hublot range. Two years in the making, this feat of engineering comes with a 10-day power reserve, which is indicated on the dial, and with a 45mm case, it is a tribute to the idea that bigger is better. Not for fans of subtle wristwear, but then again, if you’re looking for something more delicate among Hublot’s Big Bang collection, you’re probably shopping in the wrong place.
$30,700; hublot.com
19. Panerai Submersible Mike Horn Edition 47mm
The black dial and luminous hour markers are a fusion of good looks and practicality, as is the EcoTitanium anti-clockwise rotating bezel and trademark crown guard. In fact, that’s what Panerai is all about: the meeting point between form and function. This model is water resistant to 300M, has a power reserve of three days and comes with a recycled PET black strap, which makes it easy on the eye – handy, since it will last forever.
$28,700; panerai.com
20. Bremont ionBird
This September, British watchmakers Bremont announced they were becoming the official timing partner of fellow Brit Rolls-Royce’s all-electric world speed record attempt. Released in two versions, the ionBird special-edition timepiece is a tribute to the brand’s commitment to innovation and precision engineering. And while we will have to wait until next year to see if Rolls-Royce can take the title of the world’s fastest all-electric plane, fortunately we don’t have to wait to enjoy this marvel of engineering, which features a BE-93-2AV automatic chronometer and a 42-hour power reserve, making it one of the most iconic releases of the British brand’s short history. Just an incredible accomplishment.
$7600; bremont.com
Top photograph: Edward Urrutia for GQ Australia. Art direction by Dijana Maddison.