Ladylike bags, pointed pumps and logo belts headline winter’s big accessory story
Amid the renaissance of the ladylike handbag, the key accessory trends in the latest European collections include the return of the pointy heel, hats for everyday and the belt’s sartorial rebirth.
If you can tell a lot about a person by their shoes and someone’s life stage by the size of their bag, then the recent fashion season ought to throw in a note of confusion.
For not only did it mark a return of the power pump – which are perhaps the ultimate antithesis to the comfy slides and ugly “dad” sandals that have dominated in recent years, there were also clompy combat-style and knee-high boots too.
Boxy, ladylike bags were spied at the likes of Ferragamo and Dior, often held in the crook of an arm, while roomy (or, to borrow from Succession’s Tom Wambsgans, “ludicrously capacious”) totes ideal for carrying everything but the kitchen sink were also carted down the runway.
There were giant scarfs for cocooning away from the world, and the return of belts, all manner of them and including logo ones, for cinching in and suiting up to face the day.
The point being, the accessories this past season have contained multitudes. Perhaps this is no better expressed than in the dominance of both the quirky bag and the logo-less “anti-It bag”. The former runs to everything from JW Anderson’s 3D-printed Pigeon clutch (recently spotted on Carrie Bradshaw in photos from the And Just Like That … season two set, pictured below) to Simone Rocha’s heart-shaped pearl minaudiere along with the camellia bags at Chanel.
Meanwhile, whether it’s the giant totes at Ferragamo that could definitely fit your laptop and your lunch or Bottega Veneta, the ultimate “quiet luxury brand”, that’s just released its newest shape, the roomy, logo-free Andiamo bag, there’s plenty of choice for those who prefer something with subtlety and the ability to heft.
Libby Page, Net-A-Porter marketing director, says there has been a shift toward thinking of accessories, and especially bags, as investment pieces, and the anti-It bag fits nicely here.
“We recognise that our customers are taking an increasingly considered approach beyond just fashion trends. This has resulted in a high desire to shop for classic archival designs, quality investment bags in timeless colours that they will be proud to carry forever. Simplicity has become the ultimate form of sophistication; we predict 2023 will be less about logomania and more about quiet luxury and draw to brands like Bottega Veneta, Loewe and Toteme.”
For Page, minimalist staples that transcend trends and seasons crafted with high-quality, durable leather are always a good place to start when thinking about a new bag.
Celenie Seidal, senior womenswear lead at Farfetch, agrees that the proliferation of ladylike boxy and top-handle bags in recent fashion seasons fits this elegant mood too.
“The return of ‘the lady bag’ was confirmed by Gucci’s recent push of their classic Jackie bag, originally launched in 1961, via the brand’s campaign with Dakota Johnson,” she says. “The neatness, and prim and properness speaks to a trend towards a cleaner, more polished version of luxury that we’re seeing develop.”
Jenny Child, chief executive of Australian accessories brand Oroton, says there is an interesting dichotomy playing out with how people are buying bags now – they want both fashion-forward bags with an element of “talkability” that are trending and a reliable “work bag”.
“Customers are looking for versatility in whatever bag they are purchasing. Whether it’s a day or night bag, selecting a colour and shape that is both practical and has a lot of applications has become a trend. Who says that all work bags need to be black or brown?” she says, adding that customers are increasingly interested in durability and alternative options such as the brand’s foray into bags made from leftover apple waste.
When it comes to keeping your bag for life, other brands, such as heritage British house Mulberry, will not only repair your bag if it breaks but have also launched The Mulberry Exchange where customers can exchange their existing bags for store credit or a new one.
Eva Galambos, director of Sydney luxury boutique Parlour X, hopes there will be a return to an appreciation of craftsmanship and originality when it comes to bags.
Some of her favourites right now, and that are resonating with her customers, include German bag brand Published By, which uses metal and leather and 3D technology, Vivienne Westwood’s signature orb bags and Maison Margiela.
“Only one or two new bags are designed each season. The logo is always understated, maintaining the brand’s history of anonymity and innovation,” she says of Margiela. “Paco Rabanne bags also tell an interesting story. They have a strong, signature and original look, like pieces of handheld jewellery, so they don’t need an obvious logo.”
Here are the season’s five key accessory trends to know now, and beyond.
Ladylike bags
From Dior to Ferragamo, elegant little boxy, top-handle bags best carried in the hand or crook of the elbow reigned – and will add an instant little note of saucy wiggle and refinement to any look.
Belt everything
There were logo belts at Zimmermann, skinny ones at Louis Vuitton, obi-style ones at Max Mara, velvet bows at Armani and smooth wide ones on many of the sleek looks at Tod’s. All of it points to a cinched-in winter belt as a perfect finishing touch for a great pair of trousers or to wrap around a coat.
Hats on
Whether it’s winter’s elegant mood, or the acknowledgment that sometimes life is too busy to blow-dry your hair, this season there were plenty of hats, and glorious ones at that, including the turbans at The Row and Schiaparelli, the berets at Giorgio Armani and the upside-down lampshade ones at Balmain.
Pointed pumps
Judging by recent runways it’s time to get the point. Classic pointed-toe pumps were spied everywhere from Prada to Valentino, Saint Laurent and Gucci, and they work as well for work as they do for play.
Boots for all occasions
Whether you prefer a sturdy lace-up such as the utilitarian ones at Coach, cool motorcycle ones found at Fendi, or the sexy thigh-high numbers at Bally, you’d better get walking to these boots.
