Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Chloe and more sum up Spring 2022
Did someone say back to the future? Decades past have informed the top trends for Spring 2022.
What was that? A Spring 2022 season finished, and full of in-person events? It’s almost like the good old days of 2019! Or even 1969, ’79, ’89 or ’99 by the looks of some of the shows. There was a strong whiff of nostalgia this season, mercifully without the stench of mothballs, that perhaps was a sign designers yearned for the pre-pandemic decades of disco and power dressing, and those almost forgotten days of freedom.
The past 18 months may have brought with them radical shifts in how fashion houses presented collections, upskilling in all manner of digital delivery, and yet … Here we are, with life returning to near-normal in much of the northern hemisphere, fashion has quickly reverted to its old ways. Where was the promise of upending the entire fashion system for the greater good? Of slowing down the cycle, and showing collections in season?
Well, while some brands once again opted to show their collections virtually, the overall buzz of the month, from New York to Paris, was of the return to live shows.
Barely a handful of brands have converted to showing “see now, buy now” collections, and are mostly those that did so pre-pandemic.
Of course, there are many brands that are making progress within their collections to be more sustainable, using deadstock fabrics, more natural fabrics and those with a smaller environmental footprint.
Still, it appears that real, lasting change is a long way off and will take many years to fully unravel such a tightly bound industry. Let’s hope it doesn’t take another global crisis to force fashion’s hand.
Proselytising aside, there were, as ever, a number of trends that were apparent throughout the season.
Women’s suiting continues to thrive – perhaps even moreso than pre-pandemic. Could it be because it’s the workday equivalent of work-from-home pyjama pairings? But make sure to embrace upbeat hues and relaxed silhouettes. Oversized blazers, too, had their own moment.
And, after an extended period in hoodies and track pants during lockdowns, sexy is officially back this season, with styles slashed and cut out and baring more flesh than Brits on the first day of summer.
And what I like to call the trend that would not die, skinny ribbed-knit trousers are still turning up, under dresses and skirts, or simply worn with blazers or crop tops.
Here, the leading trends for the Spring 2022 season.
Make it mini
The days of the midi skirt may be numbered. The mini skirt hasn’t been this popular since the Clueless cast popularised checked, pleated skirt suits in the mid-1990s. Some on show this season were cut from a similar cloth, while A-line and square-cut miniskirts and simple shift dresses owed a particular debt to the godmother of mod, Mary Quant. That ’60s feeling was particularly obvious at Christian Dior, where mod-inspired skirt suits and dresses came out in bold block colours. Prada, Burberry, Tod’s, Max Mara, Missoni, Valentino … the list goes on of those brands baring legs this season. See also Fendi, Versace – and Fendi by Versace and Versace by Fendi, surely the most pointless double collaboration ever conceived – which all included minis, in bright colours, scarf prints, shimmering metallic mesh and denim patchwork. See, too, Christophe Kane’s bright boucle minidresses and concertina-pleat skirts, Loewe’s sequinned asymmetrical styles, Acne Studios’ button-front skirts and patchwork-panelled dresses, Courreges keyhole-cut dresses and pocket-front skirts, Dolce & Gabbana’s micro minis in shimmering jacquards, MSGM’s gingham wrap skirts … you may yet get a mini migraine. Takeaway: it’s time to stock up on spray tan.
Crafty crochet
It appears that designers are just like us – embracing crafts during Covid. Whether Gabriela Hearst herself picked up the crochet hook in between juggling two fashion houses in two cities, both Chloe and her namesake label featured fabulous looks in crochet and macrame. She wasn’t alone. These two crafts were ubiquitous in the past month of collection previews. Sometimes it took a nostalgic turn, such as with Etro’s crop tops and maxidresses, Emilio Pucci’s swirling patterns on midi and minidresses, and Missoni’s crochet and sequin minidresses. More contemporary takes on crochet and macrame came courtesy of Altuzarra’s breastplate worn over suiting, Givenchy’s hoodie and colourful jumpers, and Alberta Ferretti’s fringed tops worn with suiting. Even minimalist-loving Jil Sander offered up tunics and maxidresses in graphic crochet, while Naomi Campbell showed off a macrame sheath for Balmain. Who knew craft could be so sexy?
Precious cargos
In true stealth style, cargo pants have snuck in under the style radar of late to gather force as a hit of the Spring 2022 season. The ’90s favourite, beloved of British girl groups and never abandoned by Gwen Stefani or Jennifer Aniston, now bridge the gap between streetwear and high fashion. Worn with cropped tees and singlets back in the day, today they can take on many guises, such as Dolce & Gabbana’s khaki and camouflage styles paired with crystal mesh, or Lutz Huelle’s khaki versions worn with colourful taffeta.
Witness, too, Blumarine’s sheer silk and heavy satin styles, Rokh’s coffee-coloured leather, Courreges’ minimal wide-legged ones, Christian Dior’s overprinted styles, Balmain’s ruched leather and parachute silk, while Coperni also added cargo shorts and skirt to the mix. This is surely the easiest re-entry into real-world dressing for the season.
The great gladiator
If the combat boot has been the It shoe of the winter months, then its summer counterpart is equally pugilistic. In a season – and decade – where footwear has taken strange and unusual turns, the gladiator sandal has made a triumphant comeback to the fashion arena. Valentino’s Rockstud and simple wrap styles were a standout, and they also cropped up from Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Christian Dior and Rick Owens. Given the rise in hemlines this season, these snaking knee-high sandals are a perfect match.
Triangular trend
The bralet-and-blazer combo of recent seasons has now given way to the visible triangle top as main player. There were other visible lingerie trends including corsetry detailing and string-bikini straps sitting well above trouser tops – surely the worst lingerie trend since the days of visible G-strings and tramp stamps – but the triangle top was by far the most taken up by designers, often reaching into bikini territory.
Isabel Marant showed hers in silver with torso strapping, Tod’s leather version peeked out from beneath a blazer, Michael Kors paired one with a cardigan and circle skirt. Coperni considered cream paillettes, while Arthur Arbesser and Emilio Pucci offered crochet styles – as per this season’s aforementioned trend. There were plenty more on offer from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Dolce & Gabbana, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Kenneth Ize, Blumarine and JW Anderson. If you want a quick fix for this summer, just rummage through your underwear or swimwear drawer for inspiration.