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The essential eight

DON'T be left behind in last season's styles. Here are the top trends to add to your wardrobe now.

Paris Fashion Baptista
Paris Fashion Baptista
TheAustralian

THE month-long slog of ready-to-wear shows is over, fashion editors having carted their battered Goyard luggage across the globe in search of the key looks for next year.

The show starts with a melting pot of trends in New York, is finetuned in London and Milan before being distilled on the runways of Paris.

You can wait six months for the international spring collections to arrive in stores and online - or become an early adopter and incorporate the trends into your wardrobe right now.

A tuxedo, a jumpsuit, poppy red and checks: here are some of the wardrobe essentials.

1. IN THE MIDDLE: Start doing your sit-ups now because smooth stomachs were the key accessory of the season, with bare midriffs peeping out of bathing suits or bolero tops and pleated skirts at Rochas's 1950s-flavoured collection. At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs sent out checked bustier tops on models in his energetic mod show, with bandeau tops floating above maxi skirts. Olivier Rousteing paired his bandeaus with high-waisted, narrow trousers and wide-shouldered jackets at Balmain. The result was athletic, stopping short of androgyny.

2. CHECK IT OUT: Lumberjack checks in ultra-light fabrics set the tone at Dries Van Noten's brilliant ode to the grunge era. Kurt Cobain has edged Edie Sedgwick and Catherine Deneuve out of the way as fashion's favourite pin-up and inspiration. Van Noten made the winter print a summer essential, delivering it on shirts and skirts in taffeta, organza, mousseline and lame. A further feminine touch was added by clashing cleverly with florals.

If grunge is still a trend too far, you can ease yourself into checks with Alexis Mabille's girly gingham. Mabille offered gingham on boxy jackets, button-down shirts and miniskirts, but toughened up the look with heavy combat boots.

3. TWO SIDES: The mullet skirt, affectionately named after the appalling 1980s haircut popularised by Mel Gibson, all business at the front and party at the back, returned to the runways with force. Local labels such as Sass & Bide have played with the asymmetric silhouette, but in Paris designer Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga slashed skirts high up on one thigh, with a rippled gypsy flounce at the hem. Raf Simons, with his debut ready-to-wear collection at Dior, added a filmy train to a lollipop-coloured short dress while Yohji Yamamoto sent out sage green tunics with frayed hems and a train at the rear.

4. GEOMETRY ADDS UP: Designers are finally taking a rest from murky digital prints and abstract splashes. The Louis Vuitton show was set on a giant yellow-and-white check stage with mini, midi and maxi skirts to match. Felipe Oliveira Baptista reworked a camouflage theme as geometric panes, most effectively in a blue, black and white pattern on roomy leather pants. In an uneven collection for French luxury powerhouse Hermes, Christophe Lemaire sent out mosaic prints, and at Issey Miyake the collection was an abstract, geometric take on a bird in flight.

5. JUMPSUITS TAKE OFF: The jumpsuit appeared in far too many runway shows to be dismissed as an aberration or 80s afterthought by struggling designers. The best was by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli at Valentino in deep red silk with full princess sleeves and a teasing keyhole slit down the bodice. Viktor & Rolf's restrained collection was like a wardrobe for Joan Crawford, with slinky satin jumpsuits entwined in lame that were completely unsuitable for wire coathangers.

At Louis Vuitton, the jumpsuits were provocatively sheer while Australian Martin Grant's sleeveless and wide-legged navy silk styles were the most wearable.

6. SEEING RED: The perfect antidote to the onslaught of neons searing retinas on the streets is next season's commitment to a dramatic shade of poppy red.

The colour is always expected at Valentino, showing up this time on a belted leather trench coat and two floor-length sleeved gowns destined to clash with Hollywood's red carpets.

This season poppy red was also on the palette of British designer Gareth Pugh, who strayed from his goth grounding to deliver lighter cocktail dresses, fitted trousers and bell-sleeved tops with a touch of flamenco. Cedric Charlier, Yohji Yamamoto and the achingly hip label Carven also had the front row seeing red.

7. TUX LUXE: Yves Saint Laurent's signature was on everybody's mind thanks to the anticipation surrounding Hedi Slimane's keenly anticipated debut at the exalted house. Surprisingly, the best versions came from Raf Simons at Dior, who opened his show with three striking versions of Le Smoking, with blouses abandoned in favour of a flash of flesh and pastel silk scarfs.

Valentino's versions were slightly more prim, worn with delicate lace shirts, while Alber Elbaz at Lanvin belted his versions in Japanese style.

8. TURNING JAPANESE: Where Miuccia Prada leads the fashion world follows and Japonisme appeared on the runways from Gareth Pugh to Lanvin, with kimono detailing providing the perfect finish for many outfits. A more street approach was offered by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim at Kenzo with samurai cut jackets in cool camouflage prints that will stand out from the crowd.

Additional reporting: Agencies

Original URL: https://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/style/the-essential-eight/news-story/94fe8548df80f048fb3493ecc81cdeb6