Sophie Holt’s first fashion collection for Oroton, and Gucci’s diversity hire

Oroton’s first fashion collection under Sophie Holt hits floors, and Wardrobe.NYC is now on Matchesfashion.com.

Oroton’s new offering is ‘quite casual, easy to wear’, Holt says.

After a two-week staycation and some diligent DIY, Buzz has downed tools and is back behind the desk — just in time for one of Australian fashion’s most anticipated launches. On Monday, the first release of Oroton’s new fashion collection hit store floors, almost a year to the day since Sophie Holt signed on as creative director of the Australian heritage accessories brand.

Given Holt’s form at reinvigorating brands — she previously worked her magic on Witchery and Country Road — expectations were always high. But Holt doesn’t want to get ahead of herself, telling Buzz: “We’re off to a good start, we’re quietly confident. It’s selling.”

Of the new fashion offering, she adds: “It’s daywear, quite casual, easy to wear, and will go back with people’s wardrobes. There’s a huge focus on colour and flow. With Oroton’s bags there is that utility and functionality, which we tried to keep (in the clothing), and slightly man-style clothing is my thing.”

The granddaughter of former prime minister Harold Holt was also influenced by grandmother Dame Zara Holt’s boutique Magg, which started not long after Oroton launched in 1938. “Some of the details and trims are vintagey. Then we’ve styled other pieces up with the strength of the utility detailing, so it doesn’t look too weak.”

Oroton Spring/Summer 2019. Image supplied.

This first spring-summer drop is based on camel and red colourways, with touches of burgundy and cream; releases next month and in October will expand the colour palette, each collection offering 30-plus pieces. A self-confessed “fabric buff”, Holt predicts vintage-inspired prints and sophisticated fabrications will become a signature for the brand. This season they will include stripe designs sourced from archives in London, and Italian checks. Holt’s picks from the first collection are the camel trench coat (“a classic, but modern”), and the red silk shirtdress with full sleeves.

Friday sees the reopening of the brand’s store in Canberra, the first to have the full redesign in keeping with the brand’s new direction, and there is also a new logo. “All the elements are coming together, we’re out there with a strong look and a strong proposition. We’re putting our best foot forward this season, then we’ll see what resonates with the customer and we’ll act accordingly. For any retailer, you’ve got to listen to your customer, especially today. But also at the same time you’ve got to be true to the brand and the vision and show the customer a strong point of view.”

Regular readers will have heard tell of Wardrobe.NYC, the brand and concept by Vogue Australia fashion director Christine Centenera and designer Josh Goot. The idea behind the compact, themed collections (tailoring and sport, for example), is to buy a complete capsule of four or eight pieces that will all work together and with your existing wardrobe. Now, the pieces are available individually for the first time at Matchesfashion.com as part of its series The Innovators, dedicated to direct-to-consumer brands that have built up their businesses by digital means and word of mouth. The offering will include pieces from the brand’s fourth release, based around denim, which includes a collaboration with Levi’s.

True to its word, Gucci has hired its first global head of diversity, equity and inclusion. The Italian luxury brand said it would do so in response to the release of several culturally insensitive products, including February’s “blackface” balaclava sweater. Renee Tirado’s remit will be broad and includes ensuring diversity in hiring and leading the cultural awareness program that the brand has created for employees, and will focus on initiatives in support of the LGBTQI community. Gucci chief executive Marco Bizzarri says: “I am confident that Renee will help us create the meaningful change we want to see not only in our company but in the fashion industry.”