Menswear gives show of a lifetime during Paris fashion week
Entertainment-filled show presentations unexpectedly synched with ‘quiet luxury’ at Paris fashion week.
Much of the buzz at this men’s fashion week could be traced to one American in Paris: Pharrell Williams, the polymathic producer who’s defined much of music over the past two decades and recently took the role of Louis Vuitton men’s creative director.
Those seeing Williams’ appointment as “unexpected” were perhaps unfamiliar with his history as a trendsetter; he was a friend and collaborator of Chanel titan Karl Lagerfeld and even designed a capsule for the brand in 2019.
But Vuitton’s spring/summer 2024 men’s show, which shut down the Pont Neuf bridge over the Seine, served as a blockbuster concert and proved Williams’ takeover is just beginning – as is the fashion industry’s embrace of entertainment and spectacle, made to be experienced by many.
As for the clothes, expect Williams’ maximalist Vuitton glamour – slogan jerseys, pixelated suits and cushiony, pliable leather bags in the 154-year-old monogram print – to influence the direction of fashion over the next few years.
Speaking of spectacle, the presentation of Dior, another of the brands under chief executive Bernard Arnault’s LVMH umbrella, was its own talking point.
Artistic director Kim Jones ensured every outfit was seen and remembered as models rose from the floor on ascending tiles.
But don’t let the sci-fi vibe distract from the history; looks featured nods to Dior’s 76-year-old heritage, such as the “cannage” stitch Christian Dior invented in 1947, and which appears on the brand’s “Lady Dior” bag, named for proud owner Princess Diana.
As Diana did with the Lady Dior, brands know the need for celebrity ambassadors to carry through their messages, and superstars old and new flocked to see their favourite brands in Paris.
Loewe invited big names we know from TV: The White Lotus creator Mike White and stars Theo James and Murray Bartlett, as well as Succession patriarch Brian Cox, came to see the latest surrealist range by creative director Jonathan Anderson.
The cultural significance of Pharrell’s Vuitton was matched by an influx of stars; Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, Jared Leto and Lewis Hamilton attended while the famously private Beyonce took a night from her Renaissance world tour to come and support.
Elsewhere, other big-ticket brands provided timeless wares for those looking to invest.
Hermes’ enduring trench coats and knits were elevated enough to appease longstanding customers while also appealing to new ones.
It is the kind of effortless luxe that was also seen at Zegna, which showed earlier in sun-soaked Milan and put forward the summer suit in lithe new ways, apt for Australian customers when our warm weather arrives.
The shows in Paris were a varied, multifaceted illustration of menswear today, and showed that there’s something for everyone.