Mad hatters

SPRING carnival fashionistas beware: too much and you'll just look crazy .

AS racing fever sets in, women are faced with a stark choice on hats: royal restraint a la Duchess of Cambridge or a spotlight-stealing piece to rival Lady Gaga.

General manager of accessories for David Jones Damian Burke says that, for every customer seeking a timeless Jackie O-style pillbox, there's another determined to get noticed.

"I think there is really an equal split of those who want to make a statement and those wanting to wear something that's more classic," says Burke. "It has been apparent in recent years that customers are taking more risks with their millinery, which is nice to see as it also means their confidence has grown and they are more accepting of changing styles."

Milliner Suzy O'Rourke, whose more eye-catching creations have included a pineapple turban and a vinyl record mohawk, says the influence of pop cultural extremists such as Lady Gaga makes it easier for the average racegoer to push the boundaries. "Rather than just going for those classical shapes, women are interested in trying something that's a bit more sculptural and different," she says. "They'll be surprised what suits them. It's still done well, with beautiful lines; it's just reaching a bit further."

Long before Lady Gaga, iconic British stylist Isabella Blow elevated hat wearing to an art form. Muse to famed milliner Philip Treacy, Blow was rarely seen without an elaborately adorned head, be it in mesh, feathers or her signature lobster headpieces. Today, eccentric Vogue Japan editor-at-large Anna Dello Russo carries the millinery mantle in the fashion industry with her fondness for faux fruit and fascinators.

In the real world, however, wearers of statement headwear prefer to channel Blow and Dello Russo than the nuttier, slaughterhouse stylings of Lady Gaga.

"Popular culture reminds us of the drama and magic that a hat can create," says Jonathan Howard of Hatmaker.

"(Lady Gaga has) brought into the mainstream that wearing crazy things will get you attention if that's what you need. In saying that, women like pretty things so, yes, they've become more adventurous, but they want to be looked at and admired for how cool they look, not because they're wearing a pork chop."

Curiously, although Lady Gaga appeals to a new generation of pop fans, young women tend to be conservative trackside. "First-time hat wearers, younger hat wearers, are still in training, working their way up from the $50 fascinator," says Howard. "If you don't wear hats all the time, having to get all gussied up and put a hat on your head is pretty frightening. That's why we always have to have smaller headbands and berets and disc shapes," says O'Rourke. "People can relate to those and they understand them more than really over-the-top pieces."

In the millinery business, looks evolve more slowly and trends are less defined than in the world of fashion apparel.

"Inspiration comes from what's generally happening out there (in fashion)," says O'Rourke. "For example, there's a bit of 20s going on so we might grab on to that because you want to make sure what you do is going to work with what's in fashion, but I don't think there are hard-and-fast trends."

For this year's spring racing season, hatmakers must contend with colourful, print-heavy apparel. "Hats are becoming less fussy, a little cleaner, because the clothes this season have gone quite busy," says Howard.

The Gatsby trend is reflected in boater and cloche styles while fashion's preoccupation with pops of bold colour crops up in headwear. "Neon is even bigger this year. The colour's almost gone up a notch," says O'Rourke. But, no matter how searing the shades get, the classics never go out of style. "Black-and-white for race wear is the biggest seller," Howard says.

So, elegant topper or mad hatter? Howard and O'Rourke agree the best approach is a holistic one. "It's the complete look," says O'Rourke. "If that means the hat isn't the main feature then I'm happy with that. The main thing is making the client look beautiful."

The professionals advise letting a statement hat take centre stage by keeping the rest of the outfit pared back and chic, perhaps adding an interesting shoe. Comfort and confidence are mandatory. "Don't have a crazy dress and a crazy hat," says O'Rourke, "or you'll just look crazy."