Jumpsuits: the power of one

JUMPSUITS for the over-40s? Absolutely. Just don’t go strapless, ladies.

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ALL-IN-ONES are the Facebook of the fashion world. After starting life as something cool and trendy for the youngsters, they’ve ended up as something useful, practical and problem-solving for us oldies.

The best thing about jumpsuits is that they have the capacity to make one feel on-trend, stylish and comfortable all at the same time. There aren’t a lot of things you can say that about. In fact, since Marni reinvented the cocoon shape in the early 2000s, there has hardly been anything you could say that about — at least that you might actually wear out of the house.

Inevitably, there are some guidelines where all-in-ones are concerned, the first being that they should never be strapless. Yes, you may have a great figure and toned arms; nonetheless, you should leave that particular trend to those under 25. Why? One word: dignity. The aim of the all-in-one is to preserve that particular quality, not erode it. A boob-tube style jumpsuit struggles to flatter an 18-year-old. Imagine what it will do for you.

I have similar views about the fitted version. By all means, buy one that grazes your bottom and your breasts while nipping in at the waist (preferably with a belt) to emphasise your curves; but unless Vegas is on your itinerary, leave skin-tight to Elvis or ABBA tribute acts.

I have mixed views on heels and the all-in-one. On a recent purchase of an Etoile Isabel Marant jumpsuit ($860, net-a-porter.com), the sales assistant informed me with some vigour that the overall effect would be aided — or, as she put it, “rocked” — by a pair of killer heels. When I told her I was planning on rolling up the legs and wearing a tatty pair of Greek fisherman’s sandals, she looked askance. “I guess …” she said, which is of course 20-something for “what the hell are you thinking?”

But that’s the other great thing about the all-in-one: it can be many different things to many different people. All you need to do is wear it the way you want to and make it your own.

If you want to look sexy, open a button and sport a tiny camisole or lacy vest underneath. If you must do heels, make sure you are showing your ankle, too. This will lengthen the line and avoid the inevitable butch boilersuit inferences.

Gucci’s tuxedo jumpsuit is the apogee of chic. But if your budget can’t stretch to the thousands, then long necklaces, great belts and ­upswept hair can add a more soph­isticated twist to just about any all-in-one.

As the seasons are already starting to turn, be sure to keep summer in mind when you’re shopping, buying from the transitional pre-autumn collections, where you’ll find a mix of wool, silk, viscose, linen crepe and cashmere. These pieces will be warm enough to take you through a middling September (perhaps with a long-sleeved tee underneath) but cool enough to see you through to December.

The popularity of the all-in-one inevitably has led to derivations, the best of which is the overall, or dungaree, and the very worst of which is the playsuit.

Dungarees — those fantastically freeing things of our youth — have definitely returned. But they require careful thought among grown-ups. A friend in the know says they work best subverted, turning their usual all-purpose use on its head by wearing them with a fancy silk shirt and heels to an evening event.

Best for this is American Apparel’s black denim version ($175, American Apparel stores). Wear them low and rolled above the ankle with no jewellery and minimal makeup. If, like me, you favour the boyish thing, you can wear them with pretty much anything — as long as they’re paired with clumpy footwear (with or without black short socks). Lace-ups in silver or black are on my must-have list.

The term playsuit should send you running a million miles away, but there are a lot of them around, which suggests that some people actually do buy them. Just in case you are considering experimenting with these shorts-style all-in-ones, let me say here and now: if you do, I will almost certainly never speak with you again.