How to grow hellebores in your garden
The value of hellebores is not just in their flowers but also the texture of their leaves, providing year-round interest.
Hellebores are commonly known as winter rose, not because they’re any relation to roses but because they bloom in winter. The other common name for Helleborus orientalis is Lenten rose, a reference to their flowering time in the northern hemisphere where they originate.
In the dark days of winter, these small perennials bear clusters of exquisite flowers that range in colour from iridescent white to black purples, through shades of rose, plum, crimson, slate, lime green, peach and yellow. Many are patterned inside with spots and speckles or have petals edged with a contrasting colour. Breeders have produced double flowers in most colours and importantly, have worked on hellebores’ naturally downward-facing flowers to produce blooms that face upwards to be more readily seen. Adding to your collection can be addictive.
The value of hellebores is not just in their flowers but also the texture of their deeply divided, robust leaves, providing year-round interest. The classic position for hellebores is under deciduous trees, where they thrive in dappled light and star when the trees are bare. Mass plantings in drifts or swathes have the most impact, and because most hellebores self-seed so readily, it’s quite easy to achieve this effect over a few years. Position prized specimens next to a path or at the front of a garden bed where they can be admired, or grow them in pots.
As most species come from inland regions of central and southern Europe, hellebores do well here in cool and temperate areas. They will grow in Sydney’s climate but are not for the humid tropics. In too much sun the foliage burns, although the more dependable the water supply, the more sun hellebores can take. Prune off tatty leaves at ground level as needed, or remove all the foliage every year or two in autumn as new growth appears. This also helps display the flowers better. The soil should be enriched with organic matter, well drained and neutral to slightly alkaline. Fertilise hellebores before flowering in autumn and again in spring.
Helleborus orientalis (also called H. x hybridus) are almost promiscuous in their ability to cross-breed, resulting in many unnamed seedlings and a host of registered varieties with improved form and colour. These include ‘Penny’s Pink’, the deep magenta ‘Anna’s Red’, ‘Cinderella’ with ruffled double petals of white speckled with pink, and ‘Tutu’, a deep pink semi-double.
Other hellebore species include Helleborus argutifolius or Corsican hellebore, whose Mediterranean origin makes it more tolerant of heat and drought. Its great attraction is the boldly handsome foliage – greyish-green, deeply divided and spiky-toothed. This tall grower reaches 70cm, with spikes of creamy light green flowers.
Despite its off-putting name, stinking hellebore (Helleborus foetidus) is a lovely plant whose leaves only have a mild odour when crushed. A native of Britain, it has leathery, dark green leaves with long-fingered leaflets. The bell-like flowers on stems up to 70cm tall are pale green, tinged on the edges with red. Helleborus niger or Christmas rose has dark green foliage and pure white flowers that take on soft rose hues as they age. It needs cold winters to thrive.
Good to know
Mature clumps can flower for months. As blooms age they slowly turn green. To prevent cut flowers wilting, pick mature blooms that have dropped their stamens and begun to form seedpods in the flowers’ centres. Slit 25-50cm of stem. Hellebores contain alkaloids and can be poisonous if consumed or cause skin irritations. They’re rarely eaten by wild animals. Good planting companions include cyclamen, pulmonarias, hostas, ferns and spring flowering bulbs.
Q&A
My cyclamen from Mother’s Day still looks healthy but what should I do when it stops flowering? How often should I water it? Brenda Woods, Melbourne
Let the soil dry out – even let the leaves wilt slightly – between waterings, as overwatering can be fatal. Cyclamen revel in the cold, so put them outside at night to keep them perky. They flower from late autumn to spring and are usually dormant in summer, although some plants just keep going indoors. If yours starts to fade, put the pot outside in the shade on its side so the corm stays dry. In late summer, as new growth starts, re-pot and fertilise. It’s also OK to thank, then compost, spent plants.
After thriving for three years, my tall elephants’ ears are looking sad as the mature leaves yellow and sag. Why? They’re on a dark fence with afternoon sun. Helen Bongiorno, Melbourne
It is normal for the leaves of these fast-growing, soft plants to yellow, sag and die as they age. Simply prune them off to groom the plants. Elephants’ ears prefer some shade; as they grow taller and receive more sun, yellowing can increase. You might need to move them.
Is there a quick, easy way to remove a front lawn to grow natives instead? Margi Keville, Adelaide Hills
Using a hired turf-cutting machine is fast but means throwing away your topsoil, which is environmentally dubious and expensive. You could dry the cut turf upside down and shake out the soil. Alternatively, spray a herbicide and let the grass die off, then hire a rotary tiller to incorporate the dead material and de-compact the soil.
Send your questions to: helenyoungtwig@gmail.com or PO Box 3098, Willoughby North, NSW 2068. Website: helenyoung.com.au. The best question for July wins a Bokashi One Starter Pack worth $196 for hygienic composting in the kitchen; bokashi.com.au
To join the conversation, please log in. Don't have an account? Register
Join the conversation, you are commenting as Logout