Gaultier passes the reins to Sacai’s Abe

Paris fashion legend Jean Paul Gaultier has revealed his new plan for the future ... and it’s intriguing to say the least.

Chitose Abe and Jean Paul Gaultier. Picture: Gio Staiano

A few weeks ago you might remember that Buzz mentioned Jean Paul Gaultier had presented his final haute couture show. At the time, he teased us by saying no more shows would not mean no more fashion — just a new concept. Well, he has now revealed his plan, and it’s intriguing to say the least.

As one of a handful of haute couturiers in Paris — as decreed by the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French fashion’s governing body — Gaultier will indeed continue to create handcrafted haute couture. However, each season he will hand over the design reins to a different designer, who will interpret the codes of the house.

The first designer to be given this honour is Sacai’s Chitose Abe, who will present her vision of Gaultier during July haute couture week.

Fans of Sacai love it for its hybrid approach to fashion — a knit top spliced together with striped shirting, say, or jumpers and dresses that look as if two completely different styles were hacked in half and sewn together.

Given her approach, it will be fascinating to see her spin on Gaultier’s rich history of house codes, including the striped Breton shirt, Le Smoking tuxedos and corsetry.

For Gaultier, this idea of collaboration has apparently been percolating for some time. “The idea of different designers interpreting one haute couture brand came to me in the 90s for a Parisian haute couture house which found itself without a designer,” he said in a statement.

“I am pleased that this concept will become reality now with Chitose Abe of Sacai as the first guest designer. I admire her work, we have many things in common creatively and share a similar vision of fashion. I am glad to give her the complete freedom.”

For her part, Abe added: “I have a long-held admiration for Jean Paul’s unique vision of subversive femininity and his originality, both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning. It is a true honour to be given the opportunity to be custodian of his house as the first designer of this project.”

With four months to go, that will be some sweet anticipation.

Show cancellations go viral

That is, of course, if the July haute couture shows go ahead. Buzz doesn’t like to be a doomsayer but, as the coronavirus continues to spread, along with the fear and uncertainty surrounding it, events are falling over like skittles.

While the big four fashion weeks from New York to Paris finished recently with relatively minimal disruption and only a small number of shows cancelled, those to be held in Asia in the coming month are being more seriously affected. Seoul Fashion Week, Beijing Fashion Week and Tokyo’s Rakuten Fashion Week have all been cancelled, while Shanghai Fashion Week will be online only.

The increasingly important and globetrotting cruise season of April/May looks to be all but cancelled. In the past few years, luxury brands have flown in hundreds of editors and buyers from around the world to attend these lavish bespoke spectacles in cities from Rio to Marrakech. But as increasing numbers of cases and casualties are reported globally, more and more are pulling out. Prada was the first to postpone (its Tokyo show was slated for May 21). Armani has cancelled Dubai, Burberry has called off its Shanghai show, and Ralph Lauren, Versace and Gucci have cancelled their US-based shows.

No word yet from brands including Max Mara, Dior and Chanel, who have shows scheduled for locations as diverse as St Petersburg and Puglia. Chanel has, however, postponed a May restaging of its December Metiers d’Art show in Beijing.