Fashion insiders on what’s in, and what’s out, for 2024
Say goodbye to logos, quiet luxury and throwaway fashion.
If 2023 was a year for tiny shorts and extravagant sleeves, an obsession with both quiet luxury and everything Barbie, then 2024 is shaping up to be something a little more even-keeled.
Sarah Kirby, head of planning and buying at luxury Australian retailer Incu, which stocks both local and international labels, says people will want to buy clothes that will last. This means timeless pieces but also pieces so original and with such impact that they’re brought out year after year.
“With the current macro trends we’ve certainly seen a shift in customer behaviour, with our overall average spend increasing season on season,” she says.
“We are seeing less people spending, but those that are want value and are happy to invest more in key pieces, particularly tailoring or high-ticket items. We have seen a slowdown in quiet luxury, logos and comfort clothing. Purchase price is a consideration more than ever right now.
“For 2024 it’s no surprise that we will see a blend of simplicity in key investment pieces, paired back with extreme statements from designers. For Incu we are seeing a strong sense of nostalgia from designers with undertones of ’90s and grunge – denim is getting baggier, skirts are staying longer and leather statement is here to stay for the season.”
According to luxury fashion retailer Matches Fashion, buyers foresee an uptick in monochrome. They’ve increased their purchase of suede bags by 642 per cent as customers seek relaxed yet luxurious shapes, and say 79 per cent of their buy of skirts for the new season hit midi-length.
Other predictions? A new mood of preppiness that can be found in the return of rugby stripes, the return of silver jewellery after years of gold jewellery reigning, and kitten heels to continue as a strong trend.
As for men, it’s all about summer loafers, short, lightweight coats such as bombers (a category Matches Fashion has increased by 93 per cent year on year) and relaxed straight-leg denim.
On the formal front, tailoring remains a key growth category for the retailer with soft tailoring at brands such as Lemaire and sharp evening attire from the likes of Tom Ford selling well.
The idea that consumers might be warier about how and where they spend is reflected in the latest edition of the industry publication Business of Fashion’s State of Fashion report, produced with management consultancy McKinsey.
A key theme identified for 2024 is caution around discretionary spending.
“In an uncertain world, consumer discretionary spend will be weighted toward trusted categories and brands,” the authors of the report note.
“Hard luxury goods – jewellery, watches, and leather – will likely be in demand, reflecting their potential investment value in tough economic times.”
This aligns too with a slowdown in the luxury industry after several post pandemic boom years.
Ana Maria Escobar, founder and designer of Australian label LMND, which first became known for its well-cut shirts, says she thinks people will express themselves with colour more in 2024 while keeping silhouettes classic.
“The comeback of bold statement colours like real red and ink blue suggest a vibrant and expressive fashion landscape for 2024,” Escobar says.
“We are still in the era of optimistic dressing, exploring past and present trends. We’ll continue to see a fresh approach to ’90s styling, truly celebrating basics and not being afraid to mix and match colours.”
Escobar says people won’t be spending as much, and when they do it will be on good quality pieces that will last.
“Fast, careless fast fashion is going to have to reinvent itself,” she says.
It’s not all clean-lined basics though. Georgina Coulter, head of buying at The Outnet, says this year’s twist towards girlishness (hair bows were a key trend, not to mention TikTok’s coquette trend) will continue.
“Spring-summer 2024 will see the continuation of femininity such as lace fabrics and trims, ladylike silhouettes and semi-sheer pieces,” Coulter says.
“Brands such as Carolina Herrera, Erdem and Cecilie Bahnsen lit up the runways this year with their expressions of modern romance.”
One trend Coulter foresees continuing into 2024 is an evolution of this year’s enduring “pantless” trend.
In 2023 this included brands going completely sans-pants, such as Miu Miu with its sequined panties, to the micro shorts at Gucci and Chanel.
Shorts, says Coulter, are a key look for 2024.
“One big trend for this summer is shorts; the shorter the better,” she says. “It feels like a move on from this year’s underwear as outerwear ‘pantless’ trend, which appeared across the catwalks and on many celebrities.
“The catwalks proved that this season’s shorts are one of the most covetable wardrobe items, from casual styles worn with matching blazers or knitwear, to velvet and silky options designed to be dressed up.”
Five trends to know
Key looks to expect in 2024, according to Nicole Adolphe, head of style at The Iconic
BUTTER HUES
While #Lemontok took over our feeds this year, we’ll start to see more “buttery soft” lemon shades in 2024.
ELEVATED SPORTSWEAR WITH A PREPPIER FEEL
The lockdown-inspired athleisure wear trend is getting a makeover. This year, we will see polo tops paired with bermuda shorts, drawstring waist shorts worn with heels and a shirt, and sports jackets teamed with tailored midi skirts. It’s all about the juxtaposition of the sporty look while adding something with a little more oomph to lift the outfit.
MICRO SHORTS
On the other side of the spectrum, the “no-pants” look may or may not take off. Although many of the runways featured tiny swim briefs or high-waisted underwear (and some of the it girls have tested it out in real life), it’s unlikely most of us will ever wear this trend. In saying that, it might work when you’re on your way from the beach to the car or hanging out at home.
PRINT CLASHES
Checks and stripes clashes, which featured heavily on recent runways, will be the new combination.
THE END OF OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES
After a few years of baggy and oversized everything, I expect a movement towards more fitted and flattering pieces, saying goodbye to the black blazer and wide leg pants, and hello to relaxed short suiting and bermuda-length shorts.
