Burberry unveils a new era under Riccardo Tisci

Any colour, as long as it’s beige. Perhaps this was the fashion equivalent of a palette cleanser for the new era at Burberry.

Models present designs from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of London Fashion Week. Picture: AFP

Any colour, as long as it’s beige. Perhaps this was the fashion equivalent of a palette cleanser for the new era at Burberry.

Anticipation had been high for the first Burberry collection under new creative director Riccardo Tisci since it was announced in March that he would replace longtime designer Christopher Bailey.

How would the former Givenchy designer of 12 years interpret the 162-year-old British label best known for its trenchcoats? Especially when his signature look was closer to gothic romance?

From the Burberry collection. Picture: AFP

At London Fashion Week yesterday, his first look was a knee-length trenchcoat in the house’s base colour beige, albeit cinched with a wide elasticised belt.

The huge 133-look collection for women and men was divided into three sections: refined, relaxed and evening. The first two were slightly at odds — the former, prim pencil or pleated skirts and pussy bows; the latter inspired by the 1990s and punk influences of the late 70s, both key moments in British fashion history.

Tisci said this was part of his plan to create collections with cross-generational appeal that celebrate British “eclecticism ”.

Another design from Burberry. Picture: AFP

Those beige tones extended to sand, latte and chocolate, but there were intermittent dashes of colour in blue, red and sage. The occasional hint of lacy lingerie was a nod to his previous signature style.

Animal prints were seen in both men’s and women’s collections, including leopard, tiger and dalmatian, sometimes worn together.

“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection,” said the Italian designer. “This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse UK.”

A handful of black evening dresses rounded out the collection, largely in column silhouettes, but with details including draping.

Additional reporting: AFP