Take three: kingfish, zucchini flowers, dragon fruit
Kingfish, zucchini flowers and dragon fruit: a banquet and all on our doorstep.
Meaty, white kingfish, egg-yolk bright zucchini flowers and fuchsia-hued dragon fruit conjure images of a banquet in some South Sea island paradise. And all on our doorstep.
Kingfish (yellowtail) are big, beautiful silvery torpedoes with yellow tails and a single broad citrus-yellow stripe the length of their bodies. Found in southern hemisphere and northern Pacific tropical and temperate waters, in Australia they range from North Reef (Queensland) around the southern coast to Trigg Island (Western Australia), off Tasmania’s east coast and around Lord Howe and Norfolk islands. They cruise NSW coasts from September to February, usually moving offshore in autumn and winter.
Big South Australian group Cleanseas propagates and grows them in open-pen sea cages, accounting for most kingfish in central markets around the country. Marketed as hiramasa, they’re certified sustainable by Friend of the Sea (friendofthesea.org) and are highly reputed as beautiful sashimi fish. If you’re in Canberra, head for Capital Region Market for kingfish from Warren’s Fresh Seafood at Batemans Bay.
Want to catch your own? For recreational anglers in Australia’s subtropical waters, “kingfish is one of the best sport fish”, according to fishingtackleshop.com.au. “They provide an exhilarating tussle when hooked and if captured have superb eating qualities.” If hooked close to shore, they’ll “head at speed for the nearest rocks” and “caught on a jig in offshore waters will dive for the bottom”.
Dragon fruit (pitaya) are native to Mexico, Central America and South America. The Orient-evoking name links them with Vietnam (thanh long, green dragon), where they were introduced, it is thought, by French settlers, but the Chinese names also translate as fire dragon fruit and dragon pearl fruit. Dragon fruit grow on cactus-like trees and come in vibrant colours; the red-fleshed varieties being especially health-promoting. In Australia, they’re found at local northerly markets, such as Murwillumbah in NSW.
In Bundaberg, Queensland, Bruce and Carol Wallace (Prickle Patch Dragon Fruit Farm) began harvesting their dragon fruit in December and will continue into July. Carol Wallace says they have white and red (plum-coloured flesh) and “a yellow one with white flesh that tastes like lemonade”. They sell at the farm gate.
How to cook them, with Circa 1876 executive chef Trent Barrett
Zucchini flowers: A magical flower and vegetable combination that lends itself to a wide variety of flavour profiles.
Lobster and black garlic-stuffed zucchini flowers
Using scissors, cut down each side of three lobster tails, belly side up, and gently remove meat. Remove all sinew from top and bottom of the meat, chop roughly. Refrigerate.
Tempura batter: Combine 100g plain and 20g rice flour in metal bowl, whisk in 110ml, each, ice water and carbonated (soda) water, followed by an egg; whisk until combined (can be used immediately, but rest 10-15 minutes if possible).
Lobster puree: Separate cloves from whole bulb of black garlic, remove skin. In a food processor, blend lobster meat, zest of three lemons, peeled black garlic cloves, whole bunch of chives roughly chopped, a tablespoon salt. With blender running, slowly add juice of three lemons, blend until smooth.
Gently open each zucchini flower, remove stigma, fill generously with lobster puree, so they are nice and plump. Coat flowers (leaving stems uncoated) in tempura batter. Fry for about two minutes at 170C.
Kingfish: An amazingly versatile and tasty fish, for sashimi through to fully cooked hot dishes.
Squid ink-stained kingfish
Whisk together 50ml squid ink, 30ml olive oil, 5g sea-salt flakes. Cut 600g kingfish widthwise into six to eight portions, rub squid-ink mix into the fish, coating well. Put portions into small, separate, vacuum-sealed bags. Cook each in a water bath (sous-vide) three minutes, refresh immediately in ice bath to stop cooking process. (The fish will still be quite rare in the centre; if required, adjust cooking time by one or two minutes.)
Remove fish from bags, slice both ends from each portion to give a perfectly white centre with an even band of squid ink.
Dragon fruit: The natural colours and light flavour makes this fruit spectacular in just about any use.
Dragon fruit and coconut sago
Cut two dragon fruit (ideally purple inside) into small pieces.
Bring four cups water to boil in medium pot. Add 180g sago, cook five minutes. Remove from heat and let sago sit five minutes. Drain, run cold water over to stop cooking process. At this stage, the sago should be translucent on the outside but still white inside.
In another pot, bring one cup water to the boil. Add 120g white sugar, stir. Add cooked sago and simmer on low heat. Fold in 200ml coconut milk and dragon fruit pieces. Turn off heat after five to six minutes. Make sure not to overcook or the sago will be too soft
Trent Barrett is executive chef, Circa 1876 and Eighty Eight, Peppers Convent Hunter Valley, Pokolbin. Barrett established the hotel’s organic kitchen garden, with chickens, bees and quails.
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