Take three: autumn flavours with beef, mushrooms, figs
Chef and restaurateur Nelly Robinson takes a trip down memory lane with beef, mushrooms and figs.
On a damp late-autumn day, a beautifully cooked slice of beef brings satisfaction all its own. In farmers markets around the country, chemical-free beef, raised ethically by local, often small, family farms, is widely available.
In Western Australia, the Edgar family (Leeuwin Grass-Fed Beef) is at Margaret River fortnightly (there today), with beef raised on rye grass and clover pastures supplemented with hay/silage from their own land. Ashley and Kristy Edgar believe strongly in the health and superior taste of grass-fed beef (hormone and antibiotic-free) over grain-fed or feedlot-raised.
Farmer Dan from Victoria’s Gippsland region, sells free-range, grass-fed, chemical-free beef at Kingston, Seaford and Mount Eliza markets, and online. Ilwagyu’s Wagyu beef (grass and partly grain-fed), raised on open pastures in northeastern Victoria, is at Caulfield, Tallarook, Flemington and other Victorian markets and online.
In NSW, Holbrook farmers Leanne Wheaton and Gordon Shaw sell their beef at local markets, such as Wagga (today). Sue and Greg Oliver, with their grown children, raise grass-fed, certified organic and biodynamic beef at Greenhill Farm, Bungendore, selling in Canberra (EPIC market and Orana School) and Carriageworks, Sydney (second Saturdays). And there’s grass-fed Angus at Hobart’s Farm Gate.
Mushrooms are a natural accompaniment to beef, but also have a vibrant life of their own. Autumnal mushrooms, including wild slippery jacks and pine mushrooms (saffron milk caps), turn up on market stalls (Canberra, NSW regions such as Oberon and Victoria’s northeastern valleys are hot spots); they’re coming to their end now, in early May. Meaty saucer-like field mushrooms and cultivated button mushrooms are always available. They make a meal in themselves; just add garlic, butter, cream and fresh herbs.
An ancient biblical symbol of prosperity, figs are coming to their end but should still be around in corners of the country such as South Australia (try Adelaide Showground, Gawler Farmers Market) and Victorian markets (Harris Farm markets, around NSW, had fresh Victorian figs into late April). Time to preserve all you can get hold of in a sticky fig jam that can be spooned on to tarts or served with ricotta, sharp cheese or beside moist plain cake.
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How to use them, with Nelly Robinson
Beef: This for me is what Sundays are all about. Growing up, Sunday roast was a family tradition, served with yorkshire puddings and gravy. I remember, I used to wave at the cows in the fields on my way home from school and think, “See you Sunday!”
Coffee beef: Marinate 1kg beef tri-tip (triangular cut from bottom sirloin) in 200g ground fresh coffee and 100g ground black peppercorns. Wrap tightly in plastic cling wrap (or vacuum pack). With water bath or steamer at 54C, cook 12 hours until cooked through. To serve, cook beef 2-3 minutes on red-hot grill pan, turning often to caramelise (coffee) on all sides. Place in 200C oven 6-7 minutes, rest 3 minutes before slicing.
Serve with macadamia puree, king (or Chinese) oyster mushrooms, baby onions, cavolo nero chips and cavolo nero dust.
Mushrooms: In Britain, mushrooms are all around you, especially in the Ribble Valley, my home town in the north. We used to forage for mushrooms as kids, then take them home for Mum to cook. The smell of a mushroom transports me back to my youth.
Mushroom consomme: Heat 1 tablespoon oil in saucepan over medium heat, cook finely chopped shiitake (250g), swiss brown and chestnut mushrooms (200g each), finely diced eschalots (100g) and carrot (75g), 100g quartered white celery (celery heart), until golden brown. Whisk in 1.5 litre chicken or vegetable stock. Bring to boil, reduce to medium-low heat, add 1 clove garlic and thyme leaves (generous sprig, stalk removed), both finely chopped. Simmer 60-90 minutes, strain and cool.
Mix well 100g each minced chicken, finely grated carrot, swiss brown mushrooms, 125g egg white. Refrigerate. When stock is cooled, stir in this mixture with a wooden spoon. Slowly bring to boil over low-medium heat until chicken mixture separates and rises to the surface. Once fully split, sieve consomme through very fine paper filter. Finish with salt, tarragon sprig and white sugar to taste. (Excellent with mushroom dumplings.)
Figs: They can be used in any type of cooking; they go well with beef but also as the sweet component of any dessert. This recipe is my Nana’s family favourite. Paired with crusty white bread and a big knob of butter, you can’t go wrong.
Fig jam: Trim stems and quarter 1.5kg ripe figs. Bring slowly to simmer in a saucepan with
1 cup sugar, ½ cup honey, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 star anise, lemon zest, 1 cup water. Simmer 15 minutes or until soft. Break up larger pieces with a wooden spoon, continue slow cooking about 10 minutes until jam is thick. Store in sterilised preserving jars.
Nelly Robinson is a British-born and trained chef, and owner of Nel. restaurant, Sydney.