McLaren Vale’s Centurion shiraz vines produce sublime reds
Do wines created from some of the oldest grape vines in the world taste better? This McLaren Vale shiraz, made exclusively from vines planted in 1892, certainly does.
As veteran winemaker Paul Gordon says, Queen Victoria was still on the throne and aeroplanes were just a dream when McLaren Vale’s “Centurion” shiraz vines were planted.
Those gnarly vines, planted in 1892 and carefully tended from one generation to the next, produced the sublime Richard Hamilton Centurion Old Vine Shiraz 2019, which features in The Australian Wine Club’s special deal-of-the-week dozen.
It’s an offer that provides not just superb value in these times of rising household costs but also an opportunity to sample a rare wine that is a living example of Australia’s extraordinary wine heritage.
The Centurion shiraz vines are among the oldest in the world and were acquired by the pioneering Hamilton family in 1947. Vigneron Richard Hamilton, a doctor who also owns Coonawarra’s Leconfield winery, is the great-great-grandson of Englishman Richard Hamilton, who took up land in the colony of South Australia in the 1830s and began planting grapes.
Paul, the chief winemaker at both Richard Hamilton Wines and Leconfield, began working with these historic vines just over 20 years ago.
“I see it as such a privilege, especially when you think of all those people over the years who have cared for these vines,’’ he says.
South Australia is home to some of the oldest shiraz and grenache vines in the world as the insect pest, phylloxera, destroyed many European vineyards in the 1800s after vine material from places such as France had been shipped and planted in Australia.
Old vines don’t necessarily produce better wine than younger ones but it is safe to assume they have survived the test of time by being planted in excellent sites. They also tend to produce intense berries in both good and challenging seasons as they have developed deep root systems.
Paul, who began making wine with Lindeman’s in 1979, says old vines also have less vigour and therefore grow fewer leaves and shoots, meaning the ratio of foliage to fruit is likely to be better balanced.
“We obviously treat this vineyard very, very carefully – we prune and pick each bunch by hand,’’ he says. “Although it’s only a small vineyard, it ripens at different stages so different sections are picked at different times – we are basically keeping an eye on every berry.”
To avoid the threat of disease, visitors to the vineyard are kept to an absolute minimum. “If anything was to happen it would be an absolute tragedy because there’s no reason these vines can’t keep producing fruit for many years to come,’’ Paul said.
The vines, growing in grey loams over old river clay with underlying limestone, produce on average about 500 dozen bottles a season. It is a privilege to try this treasure at any price – let alone the deal on offer below.
Richard Hamilton Centurion McLaren Vale Shiraz 2019
A velvety, sumptuous expression of old-vine McLaren Vale shiraz. Intense aromas and juicy flavours of ripe plums and wild raspberries, with pepper, anise and cloves peeking through. Super-fine tannins ride along the medium-bodied palate to a long finish. Gorgeous drinking now; cellaring will add further complexity in years to come. 14.5% alc; RRP $80 a bottle.
SPECIALS$69.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in “cost-of-living” dozen.
Knappstein Clare Valley Shiraz 2019
Superb value from a quality Clare producer. Ripe black fruits with hints of licorice, mint and spice drive this stylish medium-bodied classic. Vibrant acidity and a long, more-ish finish. Complexity well beyond the price point. 98 points Winestate Magazine and gold medals at Royal Adelaide Wine Show and Royal Perth Wine Show. 14.5% alc; RRP $24 a bottle.
SPECIALS $18.99 a bottle in any mixed or straight dozen; $19.99 a bottle in “cost-of-living” dozen.
Allegiance Wines The Foreman Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Muscular Coonawarra classic, showing off layered flavours of blackberries, blueberries, chocolate, aniseed and cloves in a polished cedar frame. Sourced from a single vineyard and fermented in French oak for a year. Decant before drinking but there’s no rush – will fill out its fine form for a good 8-10 years. Double gold, China Wine and Spirits Awards, 94 points Wine Orbit. 14.5% alc; RRP $30 a bottle.
SPECIALS $19.99 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in “cost-of-living” dozen.
Thistledown Gorgeous Old Vine McLaren Vale Grenache 2021
From a new wave of winemakers focused on elevating the virtues of this vastly underrated variety. Lifted aromas of wild strawberries, rose petal and spice lead to a soft, well-structured palate that showcases grenache’s fresh red fruit characters. Excellent entry point to this five-star winery’s exquisite range of handcrafted old-vine grenache. 14.5% alc RRP $25 a bottle.
SPECIALS $21.25 a bottle in any dozen; $19.99 a bottle in “cost-of-living” dozen.
COST-OF-LIVING DOZENThree bottles of each wine above for $19.99 a bottle. SAVE $237 a dozen.
15-BOTTLE BUY Add three bottles of any of these white wines for $19.99 a bottle: 3 x Zontes Footstep Excalibur Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (RRP $27.55 a bottle); 3 x The Kings’ Creed Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2020 (RRP $25 a bottle); OR 3 x Sevenhill Cellars Estate Grown Inigo Clare Valley Riesling 2022 (RRP $25 a bottle).
Order online or telephone 1300 765 359 Monday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm AEST. Deals are available only while stocks last. The Australian Wine Club is a commercial partnership with Laithwaites Wine, LIQP770016550.
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