La Lune: All things being equal and pleasing
The flexible La Lune Wine Co is a welcome addition to Brisbane.
It’s about 1pm on a Thursday when I walk through the big glass door at La Lune, reservation-free but quietly optimistic. There’s a feeling not without a whiff of pathos that accompanies walking into a restaurant this time of day to see five staff look you up and down from behind the bar: The Customer. But everyone likes attention, right?
La Lune is the new wine bar with food opened by the chef behind stylish nearby bistro and all-round nice eating house The Wolfe. Given the time of day and an open diary, a glass of wine with a light lunch doesn’t seem entirely inappropriate. Not many of us feel the same today, apparently.
Specialist wine bars — places that will serve you a $10 glass of something called Clomarin Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc or a $40 splash of Yarra Valley jewel Mount Mary chardonnay — are not busy executive lunch places in most cities, other than on a Friday. And given the handsome new place is down a back alley, Fish Lane, I didn’t think a seat for one would be a big ask. It wasn’t.
The pitch
Wine and food, with equal weighting. Whether you call it a wine bar with lovely, appropriate food that works to the drink or a restaurant with exceptional wine focus and flexibility is up to you, but it is a welcome addition to the city.
The reality
You can sit at the bar, which seems about right if you are the only customer, or at high tables, which I like too. Wherever your bottom rests, the wine focus and almost palpable enthusiasm for the liquid feels strong. Staff members have the right level of knowledge and care, the selection by the glass is strong (as it must be in such a place) and there is equal respect for the classics and the new breed, old world or new. If a chat with the staff is your wont, you could do a whole lot worse. Given the premises are new, La Lune has done a good job with furnishings and interior design to create a cosseting but cliche-free space. Contemporary but comfortable.
The cuisine
Inventive modern bistro. European ideas napped with a modern Australian sensibility. But food that works to the wine brief, a menu from a chef who clearly understands the diverse pleasures of wine flavours and textures. Too many restaurants just don’t seem to make that liquid-solid handshake these days, the wine drinking an afterthought. It’s myopic: we know the profit’s in the plonk.
Highlights
A general sense the kitchen and sommeliers are working in concert, for starters. A pride in the product, a willingness to provide tastes — such as the delightful Koerner grenache from South Australia — and to indulge a relative neophyte in conversation that makes him feel as if he has some contribution to make. That’s a talent. Then there’s the menu, divided four ways: Charcuterie, Raw, Hot (the “main courses”) and Cheese. Extraordinary red emperor is served as sashimi; it’s all in the fish and the knife work. It comes with house-pickled ginger, baby shiso, daikon shreds, cucumber, turmeric-pickled daikon and a sweet miso paste with ginger syrup. Then there’s the super-finely sliced serrano ham — powerfully flavoured, almost livery, terrific product — served with chopped, spiced almonds and a slightly too intense piccalilli. With the house chardy — made by Nick Farr outside Geelong — a perfect porky interlude. Finally, from the Hot list, the day’s grilled fish is sword, from Mooloolaba, served on a radicchio, charred leek and pickled grape salad with a smear of sepia aioli. Just add Alsatian pinot blanc. Under zero pressure, the kitchen performs with the precision of a Rolex. Lets hope it’s the same on a busy Friday night. And three outta four ain’t bad. I’ll go back for late-night boozing and 18-month-aged Comte with quince and pickled celery.
Lowlights
None. La Lune does exactly what it promises, very well and at fair prices. I wouldn’t mind hijacking their playlist, though.
Will I need a food dictionary?
There’s a bit of foodie terminology but, by and large, the focus here is on service, not intimidation.
The damage
Very reasonable.
In summary
If you like wine and appropriate food, and friendly service …
lalunewineco.com.au
Address: Shop 5, 109 Melbourne Street, South Brisbane (Fish Lane, at the rear)
Phone: (07) 3255 2420
Hours: lunch: Thurs-Sun, dinner: Tues-Sun
Score: 4 stars