James Halliday reviews Swinney Farvie wines
Farvie is a vivid reflection of the teamwork needed to produce great wine.
Four generations of the Swinney family have lived on the same property for more than 100 years in the still-remote Frankland River subregion of Western Australia. Its founder was George ‘Farvie’ Swinney, who ran a merino sheep stud on the 2500ha property; the present owners are siblings Matt and Janelle (Nells) Swinney. They have masterminded a far-reaching diversification program that involves a plantation forestry partnership with a Japanese paper company, and grape growing/winemaking. Matt, formerly based in London, worked in project financing for wind farms in Brazil, uranium projects in Hungary, and so forth, with frequent trips home.
The 83ha Wilsons Pool Vineyard (1998) marked the start of a long relationship with Accolade. It, and Treasury Wine Estates, are the major purchasers of the annual crush. The remainder goes to 40-50 wineries, the majority in the state. Needless to say, the needs of the Swinney and Farvie wines are settled first.
Matt and Nells have two outstanding supports: Rhys Thomas in the vineyards, and Rob Mann in the winery, both recent arrivals, the former in mid-2022, Mann in 2018. Thomas brought knowledge gained from 15 years as Accolade’s state viticulturist. He is said to have an almost fanatical attention to detail and the challenges of dry growing bush vines. This vine-by-vine viticulture through the length of the growing season is carried out by several families of Afghans who return yearly.
Mann is uniquely experienced, having spent decades with Hardys Tintara, Cape Mentelle and, most recently, the highly rated Newton Vineyard in California’s Napa Valley. He also brings the intangible but important heritage of six generations of winemakers in Western Australia. Frame it as you will, but he is a devotee of the belief that the importance of the vineyard increases as the quality of the wine increases. Farvie is a vivid reflection of the teamwork needed to produce great wine.
2022 Swinney Farvie Frankland River Syrah
Dry grown on a vertical trellis, shade cloth intercepting the afternoon sun; 65% whole bunch; 12 days on skins; pressed to large format oak, 14 months maturation. The bouquet has warm spices, licorice and black fruits; superb mouthfeel, balance and texture, thanks to the shimmering tannins. Silk and satin rather than velvet. 276 dozen bottles.
97 points; drink to 2052; 13.5% alc; screwcap; $150
2022 Swinney Farvie Frankland River Grenache
Hand-picked, 28% whole bunches, berry and bunch sorted; 11 days on skins, then basket-pressed to used large format French oak for 11 months. Bright crimson-purple, the bouquet floral, the red and blue fruits and silky tannins on song. 285 dozen bottles.
96 points; drink to 2042; 14% alc; screwcap; $150
2022 Swinney Farvie Frankland River Mourvèdre
Dry grown bush vines, fruit-thinned and sorted; 66% whole bunch, 11 days on skins, pressed direct to a used 1600l French vat for 11 months. The fresh flavour profile introduces a savoury element to the dark berry fruits and a delicious lingering finish. 200 dozen bottles.
96 points; drink to 2042; 14.1% alc; screwcap; $150