Cantabrian anchovies on tomato migas bread with creme fraiche by Lloyd Evans, Iris, Brisbane
Think you don’t like the taste of anchovies? Then you haven’t tried this simple dish by Queensland chef Lloyd Evans.
Anchovies are a polarising subject. Plenty reckon they’re the devil’s food; others will crawl over broken glass for the finest specimens.
A favourite trick of many an anchovy enthusiast is to slip them surreptitiously into dishes served to those who swear they cannot stand them. The comments are almost always, “How delicious, what’s in this?” Because they’re a concentrated source of glutamic and inosinic acid – molecules responsible for triggering the sensation of “savouriness” – they’re invaluable when it comes to adding depth of flavour and an umami backbone to so many foods.
Lamb is an obvious example.
But while you can get away with modest anchovy fillets in some cooking applications, using them as a “naked” product requires a different mindset: when the anchovy fillet – the kind that has been filleted, salt-cured, and stored in olive oil – is the hero, you need to reprioritise your budget.
And perhaps this is why such an aversion to anchovies, on their own, exists; too many haven’t tried the firm, sweet, balanced flavour of the best Spanish – Cantabrian, to be precise – preserved fish.
It’s that curing process that produces the intense flavour and pungent, fishy odour commonly associated with anchovies. It’s also what’s responsible for breaking down the myosin in the fish – one of the muscle proteins that hold its flesh together – making it exceedingly easy to mash and dissolve. Texture is important, however. Too soft is no good.
Generally speaking, the more hands-on and patient the curing process, the better the anchovy. But which brand?
Ortiz, a premium Spanish “conservas”, has had a very good trot in Australia, and rightly so, but several others come into the country are worth considering; Cuca is one, and Olasagasti another. In fact, among aficionados, many consider the latter the superior fish.
One is chef Lloyd Evans, a Queenslander who has just taken on his first restaurant head chef position at Iris Rooftop Bar, part of Brisbane’s burgeoning Ghanem Group (Blackbird, Donna Change et al). Like many in his trade, Evans started his career young: he went straight from school to an apprenticeship at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Guest House on the Gold Coast Hinterland; he finished it at Brisbane’s River Canteen before travelling the world, heading kitchens for Regent Seven Seas Cruises – a six-star luxury cruise line where he “cooked for the ultra-rich and ran kitchens of up to 20 chefs” – before returning to Australia and a position at Blackbird Bar and Grill.
Evans has been with the Ghanem stable seven years now and was earmarked last year to take on their latest project, the rooftop restaurant of Fortitude Valley’s brand new Hotel X.
The backstory
“Jake (Ghanem’s executive chef Jake Nicolson) introduced me to the Olasagasti anchovies; once I tasted them with my favourite creme fraiche from Tommerups Dairy Farm, I knew combining them was a must. This dish is a perfect representation of what we offer at Iris: flavours of the Mediterranean with the rich and refreshing flavours of Queensland.
“Tommerups is close to where I started my career so it was a full-circle moment, really. It allowed me to reflect on how I have grown as a chef, using my experience over the years to create a dish that is balanced and rich in the simplicity of its flavours.”
The produce
“The hero of this dish is definitely the anchovies; they are the best in the world. Olasagasti are in San Sebastian’s Bay of Biscay and it’s an interesting story.
“Salvatore Orlando was sent from his native Sicily at the end of the 19th century by his father. He became one of the Italian pioneers who introduced salting techniques on the Cantabrian coast, where it was then unknown.”
Orlando married a Basque woman, Simona Olasagasti, and produced six children and various companies. “I was never a big fan of anchovies, but after tasting these I was sold,” says Evans. “They are beautiful, and just the right amount of ‘salty’.
“The creme fraiche is divine, up there with some of the most delicious things I have tasted in the world. This creme fraiche comes from real jersey cow milk, and you can taste the difference in both its thick creaminess and the fresh, rich taste. The Tommerups creme also has beautiful citrus notes and a creamy soft texture that coats the palate.”
Migas come from Spain and Portugal and are a traditional “next day” meal using leftover bread. “Tomato migas means red bread,” says Evans.
“Not wanting to overcomplicate the flavour and take away from the creme fraiche and anchovies, I kept this portion of the dish simple, too. The bread is top quality sourdough, easily accessible for the home cook. With a nod back to the Mediterranean roots of this dish, the bread is dipped into paprika-infused oil, adding more flavour that ties together with the dusting of paprika I use on top to finish it off.”
The method
To begin, infuse sweet smoked paprika together with olive oil; then dip fingers of thick, longways-sliced bread in the oil before baking them in the oven at 150C for about 15 minutes, so as to almost dry the bread into a juicy, oily crouton.
Then spoon on a generous serving of the zesty creme fraiche and top with a beautiful Olasagasti anchovy. That’s it.
The natural citrus notes and creamy texture of the creme fraiche coats the palate, complementing the salty and oily notes of the anchovy. These ingredients combined with the soft heat of the sweet smoked paprika and juicy crunch of the migas bread makes for the perfectly simple yet delicious starter.
To finish, sprinkle the dish with paprika which pulls the flavours together to create a harmonious, full-bodied experience.
The twist
“There is nothing complicated about this, but hopefully it whisks guests away to the Mediterranean coast. It is unassuming and simple, yet the carefully planned execution of flavours and texture hits your palate with a bang and will keep you wanting for more,” says Evans.
The price
Tapas at Iris are sold in groups of three, for $19. “I warn you though,” says Evans, “they are irresistible.” Possibly even to anchovy non-believers.