Barnyard 1978, Yallingup: fine times beyond the vines at Margaret River
There’s more than just good wines to be discovered at Margaret River.
Mention Margaret River, or the district between the capes (Naturaliste and Leeuwin) — as Western Australia’s southwest is probably better characterised — and most in the east will immediately respond with “wineries”. It’s an association thing, so strong is the Margaret River brand in relation to its vinous product. Me, I can go a month at a time without visiting a winery. There are other things to do. Like go to the beach, walk the Cape to Cape Track and even a spot of eating and drinking, which doesn’t have to be at a winery. Barnyard 1978 opened a few years back, an architecturally progressive structure in a bucolic setting near Smiths Beach and Canal Rocks, but you wouldn’t think of it as a winery restaurant, even though it has have its own wine (and beer). For all intents and purposes, it’s an edgy, stand-alone cafe/restaurant with two separate decks for different times of the day.
The pitch: Make of it what you will. It’s a hell of a place to take a morning coffee and read the paper, but any fool can see the thoroughly equipped kitchen, with a truly impressive commercial pasta-making machine, is the heart and soul of Barnyard. Like most places in the district, there’s no dinner service, but for an impressive, casual lunch between your morning surf and an afternoon on the paddle board over on nearby Geographe Bay you’d be hard-pressed to do better.
The reality: Contemporary presentation and real cooking skill underpin a menu of Mediterranean standards, and little things, such as honey from Barnyard’s own hives, used in several desserts, and house-made preserves and pickles, provide a unique touch.
The cuisine: You’d be reluctant to give it a handle, but there is more than one suggestion of a Middle Eastern accent to be found: Barnyard’s preserved lemon, for one; or the crisp-fried chickpeas that come with an octopus salad, for another. If you need a descriptor, let’s call it “sunny” cuisine.
Highlights: A well-made winter vegetable broth comes with grilled sourdough; a good soup. On a very smart plate (all the crockery and accessories here have been really carefully chosen) comes a jumble of charred occy tentacle, charcoal-singed baby cos leaves, those crunchy chickpeas with a light dressing of preserved lemon and a line of hummus-like pea puree. Squeeze the lemon and … Impressive stuff, although I’d think about some value-added yoghurt, too.
Some of the pasta dishes are a little OTT; some spot-on. The squid-ink linguine that comes with baby squid, cherry tomatoes, pieces of smoked salmon fillet and preserved lemon is a triumph. Personally, I’d lose the shards of sun-dried tomato.
A deconstructed honey cheesecake — with lemon/honey gel, mascarpone and honeycomb — is terrific too.
And possibly the greatest highlight? The chef’s chicken liver parfait would make a lot of French chefs blush. Deeply flavoured, velveteen in texture, it’s served in a preserving jar with chargrilled sourdough toasts, red wine jelly, currants, pickled onion and, to one side, black pepper and lime marmalade for acidic counterpoint. Scrumptious.
Lowlights: Small quibble, but too much is served in hinge-topped preserving jars. Like, three of our five dishes.
Will I need a food dictionary: Not at all.
The damage: Very sensible.
In summary: Stylish home of careful, informed cafe cooking. A wine-region find.
Barnyard 1978, Yallingup
Address: 12 Canal Rocks Road, Yallingup, Western Australia
Phone: (08) 9755 2548
Hours: Lunch daily, breakfast Sat-Sun
Score: 3 ½ stars
More at barnyard1978.com.au