You can wear denim-on-denim—even to work—if you follow these rules
Having resurfaced in Hollywood and on high-end runways, the ‘Canadian Tuxedo’ might have a bad rap but can looked polished and worn at work when styled correctly.
Model Emily Ratajkowski is doing it. So is actor Austin Butler. Canadian tuxedos -- aka double-denim outfits -- have recently surfaced on Hollywood types and the runways of brands such as Coach, Alaïa and Prada. As celebrities and designers revisit this look, a decades-old question rears its head: Are Canadian tuxedos tacky?
It’s a curious query, considering celebrities ranging from Elvis and Madonna to actress Dakota Johnson and multi-hyphenate Pharrell Williams have all earned plaudits for putting their own spins on the look. And it has respectable roots -- miners, ranchers, welders and other labourers have relied on full denim for over a century. Even Vogue declared the combo a viable vacation look in 1935.
The outfit’s unchic associations go back at least as far as 1951 when American singer and actor Bing Crosby, exhaustively bedecked in denim, was allegedly refused entry to a Vancouver hotel on account of his ensemble. (Levi’s later made him an actual tuxedo out of denim, hence the moniker “Canadian tuxedo.”) Because of double-denim’s workwear roots, donning the latest overwrought designer version to your accounting firm or family reunion can appear poseur-ish and costumey. Warned New York fashion designer Aaron Levine, who formerly designed jeans for Abercrombie & Fitch: “Do [it] too literally and you’ll look like a clown.” (See: Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears at the 2001 American Music Awards). Pairing incompatible denims is equally embarrassing.
Deployed strategically, double-denim snazzily “communicates casual sophistication,” said Levine. Some of New York stylist Joanna Lovering’s clients -- mainly those working in tech -- wear the look to the office, while others save it for casual Fridays. With adroit styling, “it can definitely be worn in a more conservative environment,” she said. Here, expert advice on mastering double-denim for men and women.
Keep it Real
Opt for 100% cotton “legit” jeans, said Levine, adding that stretchy, synthetic-infused denim can “pucker in weird ways” and “not look authentic.” Denim-on-denim’s appeal is its timelessness, so trendy jeans will feel off. “The idea is to keep the whole outfit looking genuine, like you’ve been wearing it for a long time,” said Levine. His tip: You can’t miss with Levi’s 501s -- especially broken-in ones.
To Match or Not to Match?
Jeans and a matching top or jacket can connote “Fashion” with a capital F, said Lovering. But only if you know what you’re doing. Beginners who attempt matching “run the risk of looking really lame,” like they went to Party City and bought a Wild West costume.
In New York stylist Micaela Erlanger’s view, women have better luck with matching (see Ratajkowski below). “It has something to do with the monochromatic trend that’s been popping in and out,” she posited. “It just works.” For men (or anyone rejecting the match game), Erlanger advocates a near colour match and pieces with consistent fabrication. So if you’re going with raw denim jeans, opt for a thicker, dark-but-not-identically-dark shirt. If faded, worn-in jeans are your jam, opt for a top in similarly light, soft denim.
Accessories Are Everything
Sporting a single material creates a blank slate, so accessories are going to pop. Brett Haynie, co-owner of the Norumbega hotel in Camden, Maine, adds polish with classic accoutrements, such as his Aimé Leon Dore penny loafers and Cartier Tank watch. An Oklahoma native, Haynie, 33, knows how quickly this look can go cartoonishly Western. Avoid turquoise or too-large belt buckles, he said.
Erlanger proposes women create sartorial tension by combining masculine denim with feminine accessories. “It looks great with a bitchy, pointy stiletto,” she said.
Key to making denim-on-denim appear stylish for both women and men, added Erlanger, is “introducing other textures through accessories.” If you’re wearing, say, a T-shirt under your denim jacket or button-up, you can introduce contrast with ribbed, waffled or smooth cotton, but stick with white or navy so it doesn’t steal the show.
Oh, the Places It’ll Go “The look has a certain confidence that can almost take you anywhere,” said Erlanger. That could mean a movie date, a brunch, even the office -- provided you don’t work for a strict suit-and-tie establishment. Lovering suggests tossing a non-denim blazer over your Canadian tux to make it more formal (see Butler, above).
Full-denim is a favourite casual-Friday look for New York immigration attorney Olivia Cheung, 34. At the week’s end, she combines her favourite flare jeans with a denim Ralph Lauren button-down, a leather belt and a simple gold necklace. “The look is a great conversation starter,” said Cheung. “So many people are afraid of the Canadian tuxedo, but I love it.” It makes her nostalgic for the 2000s, which are “cool again,” she said.
Even if your colleagues have a “more conservative mindset,” said Lovering, “you can probably get away with denim. But not denim with holes in it.”
The Wall Street Journal is not compensated by retailers listed in its articles as outlets for products. Listed retailers frequently are not the sole retail outlets.
All the ingredients for a modern man’s Canadian tuxedo
A complete (and chic) women’s denim-on-denim outfit
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