No cheers, no chants: The football game plunging Paris into silence
Paris: Shortly before the blind football match begins at the Eiffel Tower stadium, signs flash the most important instruction of the evening: “Shhhhh!”
And with that, a profound silence falls upon Paris.
Tickets for the Paralympics blind football – or cécifoot, as the French call it – have been sold out for weeks.
It is, of course, taking place in the most quintessentially Parisian venue of the Games, overlooked by the Eiffel Tower and a canopy of classic 19th-century apartment buildings.
During the Olympics, the beach volleyball was staged here and became the hottest ticket in town.
It’s no different at the Paralympics. For the semi-final between France and Colombia, all 11,000 seats were filled.
Blind football is most similar to futsal. There are five players on each side: four vision-impaired outfield players who are blindfolded, and one sighted goalkeeper.
The players rely on their sense of hearing. The ball is fitted with bells and players must be vocal to alert others to their position.
Each team also has a coach who stands just outside the playing field to deliver instructions. Games are played in two 15-minute halves, but go for well over an hour with the clock stopping during breaks in play.
In the minutes before the semi-final began on Thursday evening (local time), the home crowd war-cried “Allez les bleus” and let out many a trumpet-led “ole”, revved up by a microphone-wielding host on the pitch.
Then, he got serious. It was time to be silent.
The match began, and all that could be heard was the rattling ball and the teams’ vocal exchanges. The term “voy”, used by players going for the ball, peppered the stadium.
Throughout the game, the transfixed crowd did their very best to obey the cardinal rule.
Occasionally, the tension was too much. A communal gasp or wince escaped. When the noise elevated, ushers frantically shook signs and the host firmly reminded: “Silence! Save your energy!”
The excited voices of little people who could not contain themselves were forgiven. There were many schoolchildren in the crowd, including groups with disabilities.
Between moments of play, spectators were provided with opportunities to give in to their natural reflexes: cheering, foot-stomping, tricolour flag-waving.
They closely followed the commands of the host. He dictated when to clap, when to make noise – “I can’t hear you!” – and he led French chants.
During half-time, a six-piece percussive band hit the pitch and a dancer cartwheeled and flipped his way around the arena holding a large sign: “Get loud!”
A boisterous Mexican wave kicked off. It then fell silent as play returned, people gently rising to their feet to pull off a perfect wave without uttering a sound.
It is a surreal yet electrifying experience to watch a football match while collectively holding back emotional instincts.
Players are remarkably skilled and often intrinsically appear to know where their teammates will be positioned. And this is a high-contact game; there are many painful collisions that send players tumbling to the ground as rivals charge towards the ball.
When a team is granted a free-kick following a foul, the off-field guide taps the goal’s sides so the kicker knows where his target is.
The intensity swelled in the second half and at the 26-minute mark, in a neat strike into the top corner from open play, French captain Frederic Villeroux scored.
The crowd erupted. Unable to see the magic he’d just achieved, it was then that Villeroux knew: he’d scored a goal.
He flew around the pitch soaking up the love and lyrics of his national anthem, La Marseillaise.
“So many emotions when Frederic scored,” said French player Martin Baron after the match. “He deserves it ... and the celebration from the fans was incredible.”
In the final few minutes of play, spectators struggled to contain themselves as Colombia increased the pressure. There was frenzied shushing coming from all angles of the crowd and pleas for silence from the referee.
As the game’s last seconds ticked over, a whisper in the stands: “Five, four, three …” Then, louder: “two, one!”
At last, unbridled joy. Fans leapt to their feet to dance and celebrate as the setting sun lit up the Eiffel Tower.
France take on Argentina in the final for gold. Whichever way it goes, the Paris Games have shown once again the beauty in doing things differently.
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