Bold and chunky, ’80s knits are back in fashion (if you can afford them)

Knitwear reached its zenith in the 1980s, with bold graphics and oversized silhouettes ruling the roost. From knitted coats to long tube skirts (knitted as one piece), these 1980s designs weren’t complete without large shoulder pads a gridiron player would be proud to wear.

This writer produced knitwear in the 1980s, oversized, unisex and often Japanese-inspired. While one can’t simply relive that fashion period, there have been rumblings of its return for the last few years.

Jenny Kee’s Blinky Jumper, famously worn by Princess Diana in the 80s.

Piero Gesualdi was at the epicentre of 1980s fashion with his boutiques in both Melbourne and in Sydney. Knitwear featured strongly throughout the decade, starting with John Ashpool’s collections in the late 1970s, with Jean Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana making a statement from the early 1980s.

“The prices were high even at that time, starting at $500 and heading north to $2000, a figure that would equate to up to $12,000 in today’s value,” says Gesualdi, who was the first retailer to carry the Crafti label, with a respectable price tag of $240.

“People saw knitwear as an investment in their wardrobes, something that would last them for years rather than just a season,” adds Gesualdi.

Knitwear designed by Stephen Crafti in the 1980s.Credit: Stephen Crafti

He recalls the impact the Japanese knitwear had on the market when it first appeared locally in the early 1980s – introduced by the founder of Saba, Joe Saba, who was already onto knitwear when he opened his first store, Shirts & Sweaters in Flinders Lane, Melbourne.

By the early 1980s, he was retailing some of Yohji Yamamoto’s oversized hand-knitted garments, as much art as fashion. “I’d only buy three or four pieces of Yohji as they were frightfully expensive, anywhere between $2000 and $3000. And, of course, I also sold Issey Miyake and Comme des Garcons knitwear,” he adds.

Andrew Shapiro, managing director of Shapiro Auctioneers, has sold 1980s knitwear from some of the leading fashion houses in the world, such as Chanel, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

While more restrained than the Japanese designers, these well-known labels often included long button-down cardigans in a vibrant colour palette, now selling for upwards of $500.

He has also sold the work of Australian designers such as Jenny Kee, known for her graphic and colourful knitwear, as well as designs by Reg Mombassa, a musician and founder of Mambo.

“Jenny Kee’s knitwear generally sells for $400 upwards, as does Mombassa’s, the latter working with a number of artists and creatives,” says Shapiro, who sees the value being commensurate with the garment’s condition.

“If you find a Yohji jumper from the 1980s it would still attract several thousands, but they’re extremely rare.”

Leading Australian fashion brand Strateas Carlucci is recognised for its 1980s-inspired knitwear. “Knitwear has been a strong category for our brand since inception, and it continues to build each season,” says Mario-Luca Carlucci.

The “Vertebrae” roll knit by Strateas Carlucci.Credit: Strateas Carlucci

The “Vertebrae” roll knit, a woollen jumper with a textural surface, is one of many designs influenced by the 1980s – with prices ranging from $550 to $800.

“Our designs are reminiscent of the colourful jacquard style from the 1980s (think of the Australian label Coogi, which sold globally), textured but more monotone,” says Carlucci, who was inspired to create a contemporary version for today’s market.

Knitwear from the 1980s is aligned with the current trend of oversized and asymmetrical – with many, according to Saba, attracted to the more individual hand-knitted designs.

Crafti, a bespoke machine-knitted collection, operated until the end of the 1980s, when twin sets (matching jumper and cardigan) took over and wearing oversized pieces tended to fade. And while this writer still has a few of his own designs, they’re no comparison in design or price to a Yohji.

“Those (Yohji) jumpers were almost like fine cobwebs. And I must admit, the ones I held on to became moth-ridden!” adds Saba.

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