When did sandwiches get so good in Brisbane?

The local logic is that it was probably the past couple of years, when the city welcomed a raft of new eateries serving exceptional sangers: Eat at Billy’s, Riser Bread, and Joe’s ‘Famous’ Deli among them.

The truth is though, speaking broadly, there have always been good sandwiches in this town, you just needed to know where to look – whether way out on in the southern ’burbs or tucked away in central-city boltholes.

Either way, Brisbane’s sanger scene is pumping, so Good Food decided it was time to launch a new dedicated column called Sandwich Watch (Sydney and Melbourne already have their own versions).

“It’s hands-on, wipe-your-mouth juicy, and full of contrasts. It’s visceral, direct, immediate gratification.”

Jill Dupleix

Every month, we’ll shine a light on an essential sandwich that deserves your attention, whether it’s a cult classic, an under-the-radar gem, or a pack-leading newcomer.

Why sandwiches, why now?

To find the reason for the explosion in Brisbane sandwiches, you have to look beyond the sandwich.

Much like Melbourne and Sydney, a levelling up of baking quality has played a massive part – exceptional sourdough and focaccia is being punched out at bakeries and cafes such as Doughcraft, Riser, Cordelia Sourdough Bakehouse and Cerin Pasticceria.

Also, seasoned chefs are getting in on the game – take Joe’s ‘Famous’ Deli’s Patrick Killalea, who has a background working in fine-dining restaurants in Europe. In a cost-of-living crisis, getting chef-quality cooking without the restaurant price is an enticing proposition.

Otherwise, the allure of the sandwich is simple, says aficionado and Good Food writer Jill Dupleix.

“Put food on a plate and it’s blah. Put the same food in a sandwich and it’s suddenly exciting,” she says. “It’s about eating in your hands, being a kid again. It’s hands-on, wipe-your-mouth juicy, and full of contrasts. It’s visceral, direct, immediate gratification.”

Here are three sandwiches – two new(ish) favourites and one old-school suburban gem – to get you started on your Brisbane sandwich adventure. But be sure to check back as we scour the city for the best it has to offer.

Not A F*$&eN Reuben: Eat at Billy’s ($22)

Eat at Billy’s sandwiches were an immediate hit upon its opening early last year – particularly this take on a reuben, which that throws together 150 grams of wood-smoked wagyu brisket pastrami, red cheddar, pickles, and a generous squirt of signature sauce.

The masterstroke here, though, is the soft, thick-cut white bread. Left untoasted, it soaks up all that sauciness and makes it easier to eat than a traditional mouth-shredding reuben. You can double down on the pastrami for an extra $9.

155 Baroona Road, Paddington; eatatbillys.com.au

Pork banh mi: Minh Tan ($8)

Banh mi shops, like any eatery, often keep their recipes a tightly guarded secret. But there are a few things we can tell you about the pork rolls from Minh Tan, arguably Brisbane’s most iconic banh mi outlet.

First, the pork is definitely belly, not the shoulder sometimes used at other shops, and Minh Tan is particular about using only sow meat, so there’s little chance of boar taint. Secondly, the Vietnamese butter is made fresh daily and incorporates a high-grade oil to give it a silken quality. Good luck getting owner Huong Trinh to talk you through the pate, but plenty of customers have tried to buy it on its own over the years, such is its luscious reputation.

As for the bread, it’s huge: baked fresh each morning and given a light toast before being served, it’s crunchy on the outside and fluffy inside (if you prefer a tighter, more dense roll, we recommend checking out Tan Dinh, which is just around the corner at Inala Civic Centre).

Shop 43, Inala Plaza, 156 Inala Avenue, Inala; facebook.com/minhtanbakery

Lobbie Roll: Joe’s ‘Famous’ Deli ($19.90)

Pretty much everything at Patrick Killalea’s Joe’s ‘Famous’ Deli is worth your time, but this deceptively refined take on a lobster roll is particularly good.

Killalea uses both Canadian lobster claw and Alaskan crab meat. It’s then tossed in kewpie mayo and lemon zest, slotted into a milk butter bun (rather than brioche, to balance out the sweetness of the meat), and finished with iceberg lettuce, black caviar and chives.

Relatively large compared to other lobster rolls around town, it’s still something you could easily demolish in six or seven bites, so grab a side of fried pickles or fries to finish you off. Just be wary of lunchtime queues during the week.

123 Albert Street, Brisbane City; joesdeliofficial.com

Additional reporting by Sarah Norris