‘Women have been waiting for this’: Fashion’s high priestess returns

Few designers command the same reverence as Phoebe Philo among fashion insiders, which made the British designer’s second coming last week an event of biblical proportions (if your bible is Vogue).

Even if you haven’t heard of Philo, 50, you’ve felt the impact of her refined feminine aesthetic, trickling down to the racks of Zara from her glory years at French luxury label Chloé (2001-2006) and her celebrated nine-year tenure at Celine, which ended in 2017.

Pieces from the eagerly awaited collection from British designer Phoebe Philo, which is mostly sold out on the online store and the designer taking her bow at Celine in 2017.

Philo’s premature retirement left a void in the wardrobes of wealthy women who prefer something more subdued than Versace and less recognisable than Chanel. A return to frontlines with her own label was teased in July 2021, but it wasn’t until last week that the first of her “Edits” – a collection comprising 150 styles – dropped in the Phoebe Philo online store. Two collections will be released a year.

Most pieces have already sold out, despite accusations of being overpriced, with $US11,000 ($17,102) leggings and $US8500 ($13,111) handbags.

Here five Australian style leaders decide whether Philo has answered the prayers of her followers.

Zara Wong, Screenshot This newsletter

Phoebe Philo has a way of knowing what women want to wear, even before we know ourselves. Her version of Celine was the true influencer of fashion, propelling an elegant, minimalist ladylike style into the mainstream. It’s what I would imagine a chic (and very wealthy) architect to wear.

At Chloé, she made baby doll dresses ubiquitous and had us all craving handbags that had massive padlocks for them. Can lightning strike a third time?

Yes, and no. While I am relieved that the Phoebe Philo line is an extension of the thought that she had at Céline – yes, I do want that cargo top and the hand-combed embroidered sliced skirt (sold out) and the scarf top and more – I’ll also find it elsewhere in the world, from other designers. These fashion ideas already exist.

While there are pieces that push the envelope (or the zips) slightly, like pants that unzip down the back, which is interesting, I don’t know if it’ll quite take off. Ditto to the zig-zag print leggings, which honestly look like something that came out of an ’80s aerobics video – and not in a cute way.

We can’t buy it in Australia, as shipping is only available in the US, UK and Europe – and yes, we know it sold out anyway – but Australians who do want to purchase and can afford it can find a way to make it happen.

Naomi Smith, fashion director of Marie Claire and Elle Australia.

My first reaction was devastation. What do you mean they don’t ship to Australia?

After falling in love with every outfit and accessory on the website, devastation turned to finding friends in the US to accept my orders.

I own quite a few pieces from Phoebe’s time at Celine and this collection has the same appeal. You know you are going to love these clothes forever.

Considering the resale value of #OldCeline by Phoebe Philo, I’m saving up for that timeless trench coat. It’s an investment.

Phoebe ticks the boxes of what I love as a shopper and a stylist.

Glynis Traill-Nash, In Fashion podcast

The fact it largely sold out within one day of launch says it all. Women have been waiting for this, and Phoebe has delivered.

I love the obvious luxury of it, but with bite. There’s a sense of expansive minimalism, with occasional deep dives into texture and embellishment. It’s sometimes sexy – and a little bit scary. This isn’t something to satisfy the male gaze.

It’s stealth wealth wardrobing for those who find Rick Owens a step too far on the dark side.

Phoebe Philo’s style signatures are easy to recognise in her latest collection.

Anyone who has managed to snag a piece from this first collection will hold on to it for ever, alongside their most coveted Philo-for-Celine pieces. With Philo back in the game, women feel seen again.

Kirstie Clements, author The Vogue Factor and former Vogue Australia editor

Philo knows her customer, and this collection delivered with great suiting, impeccably cut tailored pants and shirts.

There is a sexiness there, but it’s not frilly or girlie, it’s more intellectual, in serious sombre colours.

The shaggy coats were fantastic, as were the baggy jeans and leather jackets.

Philo speaks a fashion language that many women respond to. It’s not understated, it’s assured.

Eva Galambos, owner and buyer, Parlour X

It’s everything you expected and waited patiently for.

The prices are aligned with old Celine, so don’t expect the Philo-philes to waiver.

True fans will recognise silhouettes and fabrications, given extra edge.

This is what she does best. This is her unique formula. This is her chemistry that makes her such a desirable designer.

I missed Phoebe from fashion.

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