Hats were as common as trimmed beards, loose linen shirts and wide lapels at the largest trade show for menswear, Pitti Immagine Uomo, held this week in Florence.
These were not the practical beanies seen on AFL diehards, or the corporate bro baseball caps emulated by Succession fans, but wide-brimmed felt hats that can be worn in the back paddock or the front bar.
The style once reserved for politicians courting the country vote and professional farmers has received an Italian upgrade.
“In Europe, and particularly in Italy, a fine hat is de rigueur to complete one’s look, and essential if one wishes to make a statement,” says Australian model Marty Thomas, 64, working in Florence at the fair. “A great hat serves its wearer well. It frames the face and provides shade. It can be a fashion statement and complete a look.”
The revival of the hat may silence the death knell for ties, cufflinks and braces, all threatened with extinction by the rise of baggy sweaters and black tracksuit pants in men’s wardrobes.
“The dapper gentleman’s style is having a resurgence and I love the look of a full suit with all the accessories,” says menswear designer Joe Farage, who recently opened a new flagship store in Darlinghurst, Sydney. “This complete look showcases that the wearer has thought about their outfit and wants to be seen.”
“Italians are known for their chic pulled together looks, but Australians also have a reputation for their love of hats, including the famed Akubra, which can be styled in a multitude of ways. I think Italians and Australian share a similar climate and hats are a requirement for where we live.”
Italian exuberance can be matched by Bondi bravado. Accidental hatmaker Dave Robledo is taking the wide brim beachside on the heads of musicians, cricketer Michael Clarke and Aquaman actor Jason Momoa.
With his label BxmBxm (pronounced Bam Bam), Robledo creates bespoke hats with dynamic and erratic patchwork, refined images, personal quotes and stolen memories from his Bondi studio.
“It started when I broke up with a girlfriend and I burnt, tore up and threw a hat that she gave me into the ocean,” says Robledo, a former music software developer. “I even ran over it with my motorbike a few times.”
Walking along Bondi Beach in the tortured headpiece, Robledo was approached by a passerby, who had just been through a relationship break-up and was seeking similar hat healing.
“I went home and looked up a YouTube video and that’s where it started. I had never made a hat before.”
Robledo learnt to steam felt, imported from Ukraine, over his kitchen kettle to accommodate different sizes, and tapped into latent stitching prowess to create intricate designs of cars, landscapes and animals.
“I can’t draw but for some reason I can stitch,” Robeldo says. “I knew I was onto something when people would commission me to do what I felt suited the project.”
“There’s something about going back to basics. I was given an expensive steamer as a gift, but I get great results with my $30 kettle.”
Cricketer Michael Clarke requested an abstract, tonal hat while actor Momoa wears a pink patchwork design. “That man has a giant head,” Robledo says. “Then you have to factor in all of that hair.”
Originally Robledo, who recently completed a hat with native wildflowers for singer Kate Ceberano, anticipated more female customers but now has more men commissioning personal pieces.
“I think men are after something unique with meaning that they can wear in any way,” Robledo says. “It’s not about standing out. It’s about telling a story.”
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