The ‘classic and conservative’ outfit formula a menswear tailor swears by

Each week, we quiz a prominent person about their style and the inspiration behind it. Ahead, tailor Joe Ha.

Joe says “it’s difficult to make a mistake if you stick to a formula and err on the classic and conservative side.” Credit: The Kyu

How would you describe your style? Classic, understated and refined.

What is the oldest thing in your wardrobe? A double-breasted Burberry overcoat from the ’70s. I collect vintage Burberry overcoats – they don’t make them like they used to – and vintage Barbour (waxed) jackets, which become more beautiful with age as they develop a patina.

And the most recent addition? A bespoke jacket three years ago. I’m content with what I have, I don’t feel the need to make new garments all the time, only when I fall in love with a certain fabric or style. It’s impossible for me to buy off the rack, so everything I make for myself takes time and a lot of consideration.

Do you make most of your clothes? Ninety-five per cent. The only things not made for me are underwear, sportswear, vintage wear and some quality knitwear I bought in Italy many years ago.

Joe opts for Santa Maria Novella’s “Russa” cologne.

What would you wear …
… on a first date? A white shirt and jeans, optional jacket depending on the season, and leather shoes.
… on a plane? A Uniqlo tracksuit and Nike sneakers.
… on the red carpet? A classic single-breasted black tuxedo with a patent leather loafer.

What’s your favourite fashion era? I have fond memories of the 1990s, when I became old enough to enjoy menswear. It was when the designers brought out their own suiting ranges. Giorgio Armani’s black-label suiting was groundbreaking – very drapey and soft. Gianni Versace incorporated gold buttons and Medusa motifs on black suits that draped beautifully. And Ralph Lauren did an elegant, ’50s-inspired look.

Do you have a favourite fashion designer? Gianni Versace. When I first saw his collection in the ’90s it was mind-blowing; I was saving every penny to buy something.

What’s your fragrance of choice? Santa Maria Novella “Russa” cologne.

What are three essential items in your wardrobe? A white shirt, navy jacket and dark-brown leather shoes.

Any go-to jewellery? A gold and onyx signet ring made by my wife, jewellery designer Jeanne Kang.

Can you remember a favourite outfit from when you were a child? No. My clothes choices were made by my mother until I was 13 and moved to the US from South Korea.

And your worst fashion mistake? You always dress better in hindsight – I can look back and criticise my look from five years ago – but it’s difficult to make a mistake if you stick to a formula and err on the classic and conservative side.

Joe’s fashion icon is Prince Charles, an “extremely elegant” gentleman, “which every guy should aspire to be”.Credit: Getty Images

What was your first fashion moment? It was back in the ’80s when I saw the first flush of Ralph Lauren Polo – the short-sleeve polo shirts and shorts. I was only 11 but I fell in love with that look.

What’s on your wish list? I’m looking for a vintage gold Patek Phillipe “Golden Ellipse” watch. The game is to find one from the 1960s or early ’70s in original condition.

Is there a current fashion trend you like? I like that more people are getting into vintage clothing, going back to classic style. I like the idea of recycling clothes and contributing to sustainability very much.

What shoes do you wear most often? Bespoke leather loafers and lace-ups made by my shoemaker in Rome.

Do you have a favourite fashion icon? Prince Charles. He’s extremely elegant and he’s a gentleman, which every guy should aspire to be.

What do you wear on a typical working day? With the trend towards going more casual, jeans with a shirt and jacket rather than a suit.

And your favourite off-duty, casual Sunday look? Jacket, shirt and jeans – exclusively TCB Jeans, a Japanese brand specialising in a vintage Levi’s style.

The Finery Company is based in Paddington.

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