Making a fashion editor in the front row smile is simpler than sending Naomi Campbell tumbling down the runway in Vivienne Westwood platform heels. Squeals of delight emerge the moment a model eases her hands into the concealed pockets of a dress or skirt.
That delight spread to last month’s haute couture collections from Chanel, Elie Saab and Armani Privé and has trickled through social media, with the hashtag #ithaspockets, where women share images of their favourite clothing feature.
“That squeal! It happens every time I have a dress with pockets at Australian Fashion Week or show a bride a wedding dress with pockets,” says Sydney designer Mariam Seddiq. “I don’t know why, but pockets offer infectious joy.”
When fashion writer and singer Glynis Traill-Nash wore a frothy pink dress by Seddiq for her show In These Shoes at the Perth International Cabaret Festival last month, concealed pockets designed to hide a kazoo became a vivid object of audience adoration.
“When I asked the audience if they could guess the best thing about the dress, someone yelled out ‘pockets’ before I could make my big reveal, sending a roar of approval among the women,” Traill-Nash says. “It’s because we have all been so slip-deprived. Women have lacked the same availability to slip their hands into a pocket that men have at their disposable. We need pocket parity.”
Research by The Pudding in 2018 shows that pocket inequality also exists in denim, with only 10 per cent of women’s jeans able to accommodate a full hand in the front pocket, compared to 100 per cent of men’s jeans.
Why women are out of pockets
Pockets were available for women as far back as the 17th century, but it was more of a BYO affair, according to Melbourne-based fashion academic and historian Paola Di Trocchio.
“Women would fashion two pockets from fabric to be worn beneath petticoats and skirts, but they were more of an accessory,” Di Trocchio says. “Women’s clothing was more separate and layered then. These pockets could be moved between outfits.”
Meanwhile, men had stopped using codpieces for the storage of portable items and created pockets in vests and jackets.
Smoother silhouettes in the late 18th century – think Jane Austen film and TV costumes – made portable pockets difficult for women to wear, and the growing popularity of handbags in the 19th century made pockets for women an unnecessary extravagance.
“Let’s face it, men were expected to carry the money and look after women,” Di Trocchio says.
The rise and fall of the pocket
It took Coco Chanel in the 1920s to bring functional pockets to the forefront of women’s fashion.
“It very much suited the posture of the times and gave somewhere for women to put their hands,” says Di Trocchio.
The pockets of designer Coco Chanel – pictured here wearing one of her suits in 1929 – suited the posture of the decade.Credit: Getty Images
“That’s part of the joy of pockets,” says Seddiq. “It helps you pose and relax, rather than having your hands hanging by your side. The first thing I show a model is how to bury their hands in a pocket, with the thumb hooked over the side.”
Pockets also appeared on women’s working uniforms in World War II, but in the ’50s the posture changed again.
“Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration,” Christian Dior said in 1954.
New generation pockets
Pockets as signs of independence are part of Act One label founder Tara Sutherland’s emerging signature. The Melbourne-based Sutherland designs patterns around sizable pockets.
“If you try to hide pockets they can be overlooked,” Sutherland says. “Because you can’t see them, they can be cut from the production process to save money. It may only be a few cents to add a pocket, but in fashion it all adds up.”
Melbourne designer Tara Sutherland makes pockets a feature of her dresses for her label Act One.Credit: Simon Schluter
“I have made pockets a key part of my design process. They are the hero of my garments. Pockets look good and offer a functionality that men just expect. It’s remarkable the impact that functionality can have on the way you feel in a dress.”
“The golden rule is that they have to be able to hold your phone. I am lost without my phone. With handbags getting smaller and smaller, you need to put your things somewhere.”
Seddiq is also enjoying success with pockets: her top-selling dress – with increasing orders from the US – is the Luis, with a mini puff skirt that has plenty of room for pockets.
“I also add pockets to wedding dresses, which seems to bring more joy to brides on their wedding day,” Seddiq says. “I have made pockets out of tulle. You don’t want to put your phone in them, but quite often you need to put a handkerchief somewhere.”
“In all of my years designing I’ve only had two brides specifically request no pockets. At least they had a choice.”
Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.