Go classic, check the care label: How to build a more responsible wardrobe

The term “sustainable fashion” is now very familiar to consumers. But how to approach buying it and what it actually encompasses can be confusing.

A quick internet search can lead you down a rabbit hole of information on organic fibres, recycled polyesters, clothing rentals, deadstock fabric, alternative leathers, upcycling and recycling. It can all get a bit overwhelming. Even the concept of whether clothing can actually be sustainable is up for debate, as the fashion industry revolves around the consumption of new items and the excitement of emerging trends.

In the words of designer Vivienne Westwood: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.”Credit: Stocksy

Many people are suggesting that “responsible fashion” as a more fitting term. But whatever we decide to call it, we all want the tools to be able to shop with more knowledge. So here’s an introductory guide, and some labels to look out for.

Fabric matters

A great habit to get into is to always check the care label to see what an item of clothing is made from. Natural fibres such as organic cotton, wool and linen are good choices.

Although silk is a natural fibre, the process of obtaining silk, through the production of silkworms and mulberry trees, makes it a less environmentally friendly option. Tencel and modal are great silk alternatives and are made from sustainably sourced wood.

There are also new fibres such as Econyl and recycled polyester making an impact on the fashion industry. These are made from recycled waste, such as fishing nets and plastic bottles. While they are not biodegradable and will shed plastic fibres back into the ocean, they are a great choice for items that don’t require frequent washing, such as bags and swimwear.

Growing in popularity is the use of deadstock fabric – textiles that would otherwise be disposed of due to overproduction. They offer an alternative fabric that brands such as Reformation advocate. Deadstock fabrics also allow you to have a more exclusive item, as less stock can be produced from the available amount.

Something borrowed

The practice of renting clothing may have slowed during the pandemic but is regaining popularity now, particularly among Gen Zs seeking items for one-off events such as school formals. Why spend a fortune on an evening dress you may wear just once when you can simply rent it for the night?

Renting is a concept that has wide appeal, with US congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez proudly subscribing to Rent The Runway. Even Catherine, Princess of Wales, rented a stunning green gown to wear to the Earthshot Prize in Boston in 2022.

Brand awareness

So what brands should you look out for? In terms of luxury, the queen of sustainable fashion has always been Stella McCartney. She is not afraid to experiment with new fibres – her recent boots and bags are made from mushroom leather as well as from apple and grape food waste.

Other womenswear brands to look out for include Ganni, KITX, Mara Hoffman and Maggie Marilyn. Denim brands such as Outland Denim use organic cotton, while MUD Jeans uses a recycled denim and organic cotton blend. If you’re after a more sustainable sneaker option, try Undo For Tomorrow, a vegan brand where the colourful outsoles are made from recycled party balloons and tyres, or Nothing New, made from a variety of recycled materials and leather alternatives.

Choose well

We can all play our part by understanding how important our role is in sustainable development. In the words of designer Vivienne Westwood: “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” Essentially, buying fewer items that are high quality and well-made (though not necessarily more expensive) is the key to a more responsible wardrobe.

The endless consumption and disposal of new pieces, organic fibres or not, is a huge problem. Clothing options in our grandparents’ generation were limited and concise, fitting into freestanding wardrobes no larger than two metres wide. Many of us, on the other hand, have normalised large walk-in wardrobes often filled with items we rarely wear.

Handle with care

How you wash and wear your clothing also has an impact on its lifespan. Make sure to mend and repair as you go, so you don’t need to dispose of your items so quickly.

According to a recent report, “Fashion on Climate” by McKinsey & Company and Global Fashion Agenda, reducing the frequency of washing and drying our clothes, as well as lowering the washing temperature and swapping the dryer for air-drying, significantly lowers carbon emissions.

Make sure to grab a washing detergent that is both safe for marine life and gentle on clothes, and limit your drycleaning – this tends to be a care-label instruction often created to guard against the risk of returns from shrinkage.

Classic buys

At the recent 2023 autumn/winter international fashion shows, a return to minimalist luxury pieces was evident, reflecting a new mood of timeless elegance. While fleeting trends have an inbuilt obsolescence, these classic items often last from season to season in your wardrobe.

So let’s all slow down our buying habits and remember that long before Instagram existed, we wore our favourite pieces again and again and that each item hung like an album of memories in our wardrobes.

Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.