By Nell Geraets
If you have been keeping up with celebrity red carpets recently, you’ve probably noticed a lot of, well, hair. Stars like Demi Moore, Charli XCX and Millie Bobby Brown are letting their hair flow past their hips, heralding the return of the ultra-long look.
As effortless as these celebrities make this style appear, growing your hair past a certain point can be challenging, if not impossible.
TikTok is filled with people documenting their “hair growth journeys”, many of which focus on growing out pixie- and bob-length styles and include a number of expensive products. Of course, extensions are an option, but they can be costly and require regular maintenance.
So, why is it so difficult for some people to grow their hair past a certain length? And are there ways to overcome it?
From Lindsay Lohan to Demi Moore, celebrities are bringing back the ultra-long hair look. But can everyone jump on the bandwagon?Credit: Compiled by Michael Howard.
Can everyone grow their hair long?
Unfortunately, no. The length a person’s hair grows to predominantly depends on their genetics, says Chelcey Salinger, director of the International Association of Trichologists. No matter how healthy your hair is or how many “miracle” products you try, you will not be able to grow it past a pre-determined length.
“The average anagen – growing phase – in the hair cycle is four years. The people you see with really long hair on social media are unusual in that they would have a natural anagen that’s maybe seven years, for example.”
Though naturally growing your hair past your genetically pre-determined length is impossible, keeping your hair healthy is still beneficial, as it prevents split ends and breakage – two things that impact your hair growth rate.
What else impacts hair growth?
Several factors can influence the rate at which your hair grows, says Dr Ossman Ashraf, a hair transplant doctor at Hair Doctors.
Then there’s the damage hair products can do to your locks. Kay Fitzgerald, a trichologist at the Melbourne Trichology Hair Loss Clinic, says colouring and bleaching can weaken hair, especially if done frequently.
“You can colour your hair as long as you’re not harming its integrity. This depends on how long they leave the peroxide in for. If the integrity is compromised, that’s when breakage starts.”
Notably, having healthy hair doesn’t necessarily mean your hair will grow faster or longer. “However, if hair is damaged, it may break or split before reaching its full growth potential. So poor hair health can indirectly affect hair length.”
Is there a “wrong” way to brush our hair?
When it comes to brushing hair, Salinger has two top tips:
- Use brushes with natural fibres: “Boar bristle or bamboo cause less friction and therefore less damage to the hair. Reducing damage may help the hair to grow longer.” A detangling brush is ideal when brushing wet hair.
- Brush from the bottom up: “To remove any tangles, start at the bottom of the hair and slowly get closer to the scalp using longer strokes. That way, you are not compounding the knots, resulting in pulling at the hair and breakage.” Also, try to avoid over-brushing your hair.
The haircut question
For those trying to grow their hair out, it may seem antithetical to have it cut. However, Salinger says getting a regular trim keeps the hair healthy, which in turn ensures the hair grows to its full potential.
“If someone is getting split ends and damage, trimming that off will help keep the ends in good condition and prevent further splitting and damage to the hair shaft,” she says.
Though hair grows approximately one centimetre per month, Salinger says there’s no one-size-fits-all rule for the number of times you should get a haircut. If you’re growing it out, she suggests only getting it trimmed once the ends are visibly split. Anyone who bleaches, colours or chemically straightens their hair will probably notice damage sooner than others and, therefore, need more regular trims.
“That being said, if someone has hair that’s in extremely good condition and has no split ends, then there’s no need to trim the hair.”
Don’t fear the trim. A regular haircut could actually help your hair grow to its full potential.Credit: iStock
What to use and what to avoid
If your hair is damaged, Fitzgerald recommends products with filler, which usually contain a combination of peptides and hyaluronic acid. Biotin supplements and skin, nail and hair vitamins can also help strengthen hair.
It’s best to avoid excessive use of heat tools such as straighteners and curlers. When using them, always apply a heat protectant. While heat protectants are beneficial, Fitzgerald says you still need to be mindful when using them.
“If you’re using a heat protectant that goes up to 230 degrees, but then do too many passes [over the hair with the tool], you can still compromise the integrity of the hair because you’ve exceeded 230 degrees.”
The gentler the products, the better, Ashraf adds. “Look for sulphate-free shampoos and moisturising conditioners that won’t strip your hair. Ingredients like pumpkin seed oil, caffeine, pea sprout extract, biotin, keratin and panthenol can support healthy growth.”
Overwashing your hair can strip it of natural oils, which ultimately dries it out. Ashraf says washing just two or three times a week is usually preferred. Leave-in conditioners and hair oils – such as argan or jojoba – can also help those prone to dry hair, as they hydrate and protect.
And don’t neglect the scalp, he says. Scalp treatments or serums with ingredients such as copper peptide, rosemary extract, pumpkin seed oil, peppermint oil or caffeine are said to stimulate hair follicles and encourage growth.
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