Lighter, juicy fruit styles of white wine, such as exuberant young sauvignon blancs, seem to belong with warm weather. By comparison, winter is red wine territory. Or is it? We need white wines in winter as well, perhaps wines with less overt sweet fruit, more complexity and a savoury personality. Serve them cool rather than cold, and you have a winning combination in those situations where red just doesn't fit. Whites in this mode are made by a growing number of producers in Victoria's Yarra Valley and they are worth seeking out when the temperature falls.

Hoddles Creek Estate Pinot Gris 2017 $21-$23

Score 92

From the cool periphery of the Yarra, this quietly complex, slightly pink-tinged pinot gris offers pear, spice and almond meal aromas, superfine texture, clean flavours of good intensity, and a persistent finish marked by a pleasantly drying, savoury touch. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over the next year.

Stockists include Very limited stocks. Try Bottega Tasca, Carlton (Vic); Annandale Cellars, Annandale (NSW).

Oakridge Over the Shoulder Chardonnay 2017 $21-$23

Score 90

From one of the Yarra Valley's premier chardonnay producers, this version is a lighter, more savoury Yarra Valley wine than many. It opens with stone fruit and citrus aromas, and follows up with a fresh, tangy mouthful of good texture and balance. Ultra-drinkable. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? No need.

Stockists include Elizabeth Bay Cellars, Elizabeth Bay (NSW); Como Wines & Spirits, South Yarra (Vic).

Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne 2015 $63-$66

Score 93

From historic Yeringberg, a white blend of subdued style yet plenty of character. It displays pear and spicy/floral potpourri aromas with a smoky overlay that make an appetising introduction, full of interest. It tastes rich and complex with a well balanced drying signature. Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Old & Rare Winehouse, Southbank (Vic); Five Way Cellars, Paddington (NSW).